You need to go with the tape time your paint tech sheets gives you. So in your case you will be fine.

 

I don't have much I can offer, I am not big on the idea to begin with. I don't paint these days (been a body tech for the last few years) and as a "newbe" I would be sweating bullets masking over that fresh base. Doing it everyday, yeah no problem, but the base is pretty touchy prior to clear. I would clear it and then lay the stripe. I mean, that is how it was done at the factory. I have used the stencil kit, did it just like that, cleared the base then sprayed the stripe over it and then polished the whole thing. The edge of the stripe was softened and really not a big deal. For a street car, I think it works just fine.

You are right, the reason the stencil kit says "cured" paint is that very reason. Now, unless you are adding a hardener to the base, it won't ever be "cured". This is the reason I vote for clearing it first.

That is only an opinion, others will support burying it under clear.



Brian

 

I think no matter what you are using its still all in the Sanding. Before you put on the Stencil masking you have to sand that base coat or the Stripe will NOT have a clean edge when you pull off the Stencil mask. So the big question is, When can you 400 the base coat ? Don't rush it and Sand bigger than your finished stripe.
Tony

 

Dupont may sell a clear basecoat (Standox does), you could spray a couple coats over your base and gives you a little room to sand if needed to clean up edges etc.

 

I think no matter what you are using its still all in the Sanding. Before you put on the Stencil masking you have to sand that base coat or the Stripe will NOT have a clean edge when you pull off the Stencil mask. So the big question is, When can you 400 the base coat ? Don't rush it and Sand bigger than your finished stripe.
Tony

Most base coats have strict rules about sanding them (some say don't sand them at all) so care has to be given.

Brian

 

Actually, DuPont says absolutely DO NOT sand the basecoat or you need to reapply.

 

what i like to do, especially on jobs that are pretty graphics-heavy, but still works real nice on stripes, is to back-mask. what i do is lay out and spray the stripes FIRST. spray until you get coverage. when you feel it's safe to tape, mask the stripes off and spray the rest of the car, then just remove the masking over the stripes, and clear. you end up not having to "bury" the stripe lines under the clear, because you have an even 2-3 coats of color over the entire car. i've found this works real well for me and saves time in the long run. if taping on the fresh paint makes you nervous, spray a coat or two of intercoat clear over the stripes, let it sit overnight, and then scuff them before you shoot your clear.

 

I have done the stripes both ways and found that clearing the hood and deck lid with a couple of coats of clear and let is sit over night. I then sanded the clear and then came back and laid the stencil kit. Painted and recleared with no tape marks. I found that laying a stencil kit on fresh base coat left pencil marks and finger prints. I tried this on my first restore and ended up reshooting the hood. If you look on my web site under the red SS restore you will see multiple pictures of the stripes being applied. I hope this helps.
Dave

 

base first then a coat of soft clear, stripes or graphics and then final clear. don't sand your base, especial if it a metallic.

 

base first then a coat of soft clear, stripes or graphics and then final clear. don't sand your base, especial if it a metallic.

SO how long would you wait after the soft coat of clear before you started taping?

 

I don't think he means a "soft coat" of clear like "light coat" or something like that. I think he is refering to a "colorless basecoat" used in graphics to cover up colors prior to taping off new ones.

You NEVER want to apply a "light coat" of urethane clears. When ever you apply urethane clear you want two coats (usually "Med wet", check the tech sheets) if you are going to sand it. If you apply a "light coat" of urethane clear, sand it for the strips and cut it too thin or cut thru, you will be in BIG trouble with wrinkling when you apply your next coats of color and or clear over it.

Brian

 

I have pretty much decided to paint the stripes tomorrow...lay down three coats of base for my stripes and then two coats of clear. Then I will be waiting five days..sanding the clear over the stripes with 800, masking them off, shooting the base color on the entire car, removing the mask on the stripes and then shoot my final 2 to 3 coats of clear. Does anybody see a problem with this method?

 

I would do the body color first. Paint the car, 2 med wet coats clear, let it cure. Sand, mask stripes, shoot stripe color, unmask, clear two more coats over entire panel.

Hilks, it sounds like your way you would have to mask the stripes, paint the stripe color, clear the stripes (which will give more of an edge), let it cure, sand, mask the stripes again, base the car color and reclear.
Sounds like extra fine detail masking and more of an edge on the stripes.

 

Seems like quite a few ways to do the same thing. Not sure what to do. I know I don't want my basecoat to lift......

 

personally i've had great results using the method i've described many times. there is little to no tape edge and haven't had a problem with basecoat lifting. plus you don't have to worry about sanding through into the stripes. i just want to specify too, that by "intercoat clear" i'm refering to a clear basecoat, as mentioned before. not a urethane clear coat. whatever you decide to do, good luck and let us know how it turns out!