what's the best fitting 6 point for a 68? my buddy is a very good welder and has done a 10 point before. i am looking for a 6 point kit that is as tucked against the inside of the car as possible. i also need something that doesnt require any custom bending because we have no tubing bender. looking to do this in his garage to save some money. i will be adding 2 swings too. S&W is one of the places i was looking.
doing my own 6 point. best fit?
curley8788
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Well, like everything else, i guess they've changed too. I'd call back and see if I could get in touch with someone else.
I used to order from Kevin Scholl, he knew his stuff. Also ordered from another older guy (can't remember his name) when I couldnt get Kevin, but both of them always helped me out a lot.
I can tell you that the worst fitting cages I've dealt with were from Chassis Engineering and Competition Engineering. Worst phone service was from ART, I called to order a chassis kit and the guy was too busy to take my order (his exact words). Oh well.
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Chevelle has a full frame, you can hit the frame with every point, so you won't need the plates.
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You do not need the two kickers. And they are pointless in an a-body. If you talked to candy she is top notch, you may want to loose the no talking to woman thing. My future sister in law use to work for a leader in the valvetrain industry, she know the product inside and out, but a request for a male instead of her would get you someone who was clueless. If someone works at S&w then they know the product, arguing 5 point vs 6pt vs 8 pt really doesn't matter to them, they make a kit, when installed correctly it meets NHRA rules, that pretty much all they care about.
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exactly, but i didn't argue, i merely asked for a 6 point. dunno if i talked to candy or not. she said we only make an eight. then i said "ok no problem at all i just wont use the last two bars." then she stopped me like "woah woah woah you have to." i just blew it off and said really? i am almost positive a 5 point is what i need considering the chevelle is full frame and the last two bars only attach to the floor board. this is what i heard from other guys who race with a 5 or 6 point. the reason why i am dismissive of the woman i talked to is because the only response she gave me after that was "trust me i know." no explanation, just TRUST ME.
No.
regardless, as soon as i get a second opinion i'm probably still going to order the kit anyway. as a customer it is my right to get a second, third or fourth opinion before i pull the trigger. for those who want to know, the shipping weight for the whole thing is 92 pounds. im happy i will be adding only around 75 pounds to the weight of the car.
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Mike I was looking at the '10 rules today and in the back (section 20 I believe) they get pretty detailed about consturction. The 2 little angle bars are required for non full frame cars...Alston give you all the bars too and you just don't use them if you have an A body...sounds like the S&W kit is a good one.....now....go order something..
Davey
Davey
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lol thanks dave. engine and transmission upgrades are first on the list. all i need to finish the engine is a cam and an oil pan and i'm good to go.Mike I was looking at the '10 rules today and in the back (section 20 I believe) they get pretty detailed about consturction. The 2 little angle bars are required for non full frame cars...Alston give you all the bars too and you just don't use them if you have an A body...sounds like the S&W kit is a good one.....now....go order something..
Just curious: have you ever installed a cage from Chris Alston Chassis Works?
Just trying to help. You posted, then commented that no one had responded to your post. I suggested you clarify it because the content was a bit hard to follow.
Some tips for getting along here: This is not Yellow Bullet, try not to assume that someone is being "a ass" and try not to read too much into what they've posted. Things in type don't always come across as they do in conversation.
Now, if either of the phrases "a ass" or "English as a second language" are used, you can probably assume the content was not meant to be friendly.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
Edit: To be sure this post isn't misunderstood, "
" means I'm just having some fun with you.
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No, but I did help put in an Alston backhalf (ladder bar) kit in a 68 firebird once, it was a universal style kit but everything fit and looked good.FWIW, We put an Autoweld roll cage kit in that car, it fit pretty good if i remember right but we had to do a lot of trimming and fitting.
Honestly, I think *most* major chassis companies have gotten their cages figured out pretty well, especially on something as common as a chevelle.
S&W is my favorite because they'll ship FedEx ground (dont have to worry with truck freight), they've always helped me out on the phone, the cages fit very well, and there's less trimming involved than most of the other kits I've done. And they're a site sponser-members get a discount on roll bars from them.
That's not to say that other companies don't have good products, just that I have no reason to try anyone else right now:thumbsup:
No . Just so your clear....... each point on a full frame car has to go thru the sheet metal and be welded to the frame. If you decide to use any plates , they would get welded to the frame and the bars would get welded to the plate.The only exception would be if you decided to use the 2 extra kickers.
As said ... the 2 extra bars would be used in a unibody type car but are not needed on your Chevelle. Some people like them and say they support the main hoop from side load , but not required.
Thankyou Greg for your reply. In light of your comments, if/when I decide to purchase a cage for my car, I'll be sure to inquire about the method of shipping first. I know what an inconvenience some of the freight companies can be. When my engine was shipped to me, it was challenging to deal with the "Yellow Freight" company to say the least. So I wouldn't want to go through that run-around again just for a roll cage. :noway:
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Billy just FYI Alston uses UPS ground, both FedEx and UPS ground is truck freight (moved cross country by air), they just have better more reliable systems and tracking....Davey
Robb just 'cause I'm curious....I thought the plates could be welded or bolted to the frame.....
As far as I know, being shipped "Freight" means that it's handled by a freight company such as Yellow, which doesn't deliver to residential addresses, but only to those addresses of businesses which have loading docks. Which requires the addresse to show up at the local freight center with a truck that has a liftgate. That's how the "Yellow freight" company is, and as far as I know, when an item states that it's "shipped freight" that's what it means. It's shipped on a pallet, and requires that the customer have a pallet jack to get it off the delivery truck, or needs to pay extra just to have a third party company deliver the item with a truck that has a hydraulic liftgate. This hasn't anything to do with FED-EX or UPS.
Usually packages that weigh over 70 LBS will not be shipped by UPS, but instead are shipped "freight" (usually by 18 wheeler tractor trailer trucks). Crated engines on pallets are shipped "freight". UPS and FED-EX do not handle "freight" shipping. :noway:
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ok..ok..Billy......beg to differ though, was in the business 35 years, both UPS and Fedex have freight programs....we shipped heavy weight all the time. The freight program for FedEx came when they bought out Flying Tiger and UPS when they acquired Roadway. It's a shipper preference, UPS showed up with a stakebed and a lift gate at my house.......Davey
...beg to differ though, was in the business 35 years, both UPS and Fedex have freight programs....we shipped heavy weight all the time. The freight program for FedEx came when they bought out Flying Tiger and UPS when they acquired Roadway. It's a shipper preference, UPS showed up with a stakebed and a lift gate at my house.......DaveyOK, well if UPS has a division that ships freight, then that's a different division, and must use bigger trucks like you've stated. This sub-topic is beginning to drift. When Greg stated that S&W is one of the few that ships their cages UPS or FED EX instead of shipping them freight, it didn't sound to me that he meant the freight truck services that UPS or FED-EX has like you're talking about. But I guess we've beaten this off-topic to death. Carry on....ok..ok..Billy...
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we surely have Billy...guess I'll go work on the car or something....:thumbsup:
LOL yes we have.
Gee, I thought that the welding of the tube to the frame is all performed from underneath the floor boards. Now that you mention it, maybe it would be pretty tough to get in there on all sides simply from underneath.
Nope, there's going to be some good sized access holes for the rollbar/cage mounting points cut out. How they are covered back up is between you, the installer, and your wallet.
Personally, when i do mine, I think I'm going to go cut out the exact sections (and then some) from my donor chevelle that I've got out in my uncles boneyard, maybe from a cutlass if it's the same. Then I can make a plate that has the same contours, flange the edges so it sits in the hole flush, and glue it down with seam sealer. Then, for the area around the bar itself, I'll try to trim it as close to the pipe as possible and either split a rubber grommet or fine some type of rubber to take up the slack.
That's just speculation on what I'm going to do... I've never had a rollbar in anything! lol It may not even be possible.
Personally, when i do mine, I think I'm going to go cut out the exact sections (and then some) from my donor chevelle that I've got out in my uncles boneyard, maybe from a cutlass if it's the same. Then I can make a plate that has the same contours, flange the edges so it sits in the hole flush, and glue it down with seam sealer. Then, for the area around the bar itself, I'll try to trim it as close to the pipe as possible and either split a rubber grommet or fine some type of rubber to take up the slack.
That's just speculation on what I'm going to do... I've never had a rollbar in anything! lol It may not even be possible.
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I make a rather large hole. it is very important to get a good weld in this area. It takes some movement to get a good technique and to get good penetration. plus you need to get access to clean the framerail from rust, road grime or undercoat. the door bars on a roll bar are coming in at an angle, your going to remove a large section of floor pan to be able to weld this, especially on the back side. picture a hole somewhere around 4 inches wide and 6 inches long. I use a peice of sheet metal usually .050 thick and weld it back in place, then use some sort of sealer to fully close everything off.
I will try to post pictures when i get time.
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