The 66 is a year older than the 67, the 66 may have a little more rust…

 

I seem to remember the rear spring pockets might be different?

I believe you are correct... check the link

Difference between 66/67 frame

is there a difference between a 66 frame and a 67 frame both are 2 door hardtop. also is there a difference betweem a two door post, 4 door sedan frame, and will they work on a 66 2 door hardtop.

www.chevelles.com

 

Rear spring pockets are different. 67 is set up for pigtail ends in the upper pockets while the 66 frame has upper spring pockets that are designed for tangential ends. You would need to use the rear springs for the corresponding frame, they will not interchange. Installing rear springs with pigtails on both ends is so much easier than having to deal with correctly clocking the '64-'66 rear springs.

Some '66 frames have the welded center link protector on the front crossmember under the oil pan, where every '67 frame I've seen has that incorporated into the crossmember. Purely cosmetic, doesn't affect fit or function.

67 frames will also have an extra set of holes for the trans crossmember when using a TH400.

Other than that it's basically the same frame.

 

I might be interested in the frame if you don’t buy it...

 

So I got the frame home today. I used my daughters boat trailer was which was a trip. it looks pretty good to me. One body mount hole looked a little to large so I’ll have to deal with that.
He left the front suspension with disc brakes on it. didn’t want to be bothered with dismantling it. Fine by me. He did keep the 12 bolt. Dam it.

Anyone know how I can tell if these are original 67 front discs?

 

They are not, the original ones, if equipped, had dual piston calipers. Those are from a later year and much less trouble!!

 

Thanks. I guess I’ll clean them up to see if I can find any numbers on them. I don’t need them so I’ll probably sell them.

I did get a chance to clean the left rear frame area and got a part number of 3893329. I don’t see that number in my references but did see a few earlier posts here where other 67 Chevelle owners had the same number. I also saw the actual car the frame came out of and it’s a 67 Hardtop that now has a Morrison Chassis with IRS.

 

That frame is in great shape. Not that I'm in the market, but do you mind sharing how much that set you back?

 

I’m also curious what you spent.

I have my frame out from under right now (have some minor damage I plan to have repaired) and will check for the numbers to see if they match yours.

 

I got it for $500. There’s another 66 frame for sale locally for $2000 so I figured it was a pretty good deal. The discs, sway bar and disc brakes were a surprise bonus. He pulled the motor and rearend moments before I arrived.
My plan is to check the frame for cracks and straightness first. Once I’m satisfied that it’s perfect I’m going to sandblast it, box it and add cross members just forward of the rear end and just behind the radiator to stiffen it up more.
Then I’ll powder coat it and add fuel and brake lines, etc,so that it’s ready to go. I’d like to swap this into my 66 in just a few days if possible so the more I can do in advance the better.

 

I got it for $500. There’s another 66 frame for sale locally for $2000 so I figured it was a pretty good deal. The discs, sway bar and disc brakes were a surprise bonus. He pulled the motor and rearend moments before I arrived.
My plan is to check the frame for cracks and straightness first. Once I’m satisfied that it’s perfect I’m going to sandblast it, box it and add cross members just forward of the rear end and just behind the radiator to stiffen it up more.
Then I’ll powder coat it and add fuel and brake lines, etc,so that it’s ready to go. I’d like to swap this into my 66 in just a few days if possible so the more I can do in advance the better.

$500 is a good deal, IMO. $2000 is stupid....he'll be holding on to that for awhile.

 

To get an idea of what this whole project was going to cost me, I called around to get some prices.

Strip the frame and powder coat - $1000
Return the frame to me after stripping so I can box it, fix a few issues. Then re-sandblast when returned for powder coating $250
Frame shop to check for straight/fix any issues - ??
Boxing kit - $250
New shorter x-member for boxed frame - $250
New fuel lines for boxed frame - $200
New brake lines for boxed frame - $200

I have not found anyone to take a bare frame, put it on their rack and check it for straightness yet. All of the dimensions check with a tape measure out but I want to be 110% sure before powder coating and dressing this thing out.

 

That is definitely a good score!

I've been in contact with Jim's Chevelle Alley and am planning to meet him in Phoenix with my frame so he can repair the damaged front LH horn area, box it and powdercoat. He comes out to the West Coast (AZ) to see his brother and search for frames to haul back. Just waiting for Jim to heal from his knee surgery, so probably around the first of the year.

 

I’m curious to see what he charges for powder coating and boxing.
He’s the guy that has complete powder coated frames starting at $3750.
I wonder if it would be less if UPH had your own frame like in your case.