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Don Maddock

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Could any of you knowledgeable guys or gals out there tell me the difference between an Automotive and Marine application Engine? I am referring principally to the Block. More specifically a 5.7 Mercruiser(Chevy 350).
As always thanks for the help in advance. Don
 
350 Mercruiser-350 Chevy
454 Mercruiser-454 Chevy
Same-same.

Also, most of the guts are the same. The main differences are hardware (for marine application), cam, ignition curve, etc. Things like the intake manifolds will be interchangeable, but may have some different bosses for accessory attachment.
An engine that has had lots of service in a boat, especially if not properly maintained/winterized, may have a greater amount of rust in the water jackets. This is VERY probable when the boat is kept in the water, at a marina year around, or, when loaded on the trailer and not had the water drained out of the block each time its put on the trailer.
Otherwise, if it is a solid engine, use it and install whatever automotive parts that are necessary for your car. Mercruiser engines are painted with a VERY durable (maybe epoxy based) black paint that is not easily removed.
I install drain cocks (like on the bottom of a radiator) on my boat AND car engines so that I can easily drain them as needed. Everytime I load the jet boat on the trailer, I open the drain cocks and drain the engine.
 
Supposedly, the engines that were sent to Stillwater, OK (that's where Mercruiser is) by Chevrolet for marine conversion, were supposed to be better than the run of the mill Chevy engines. But personally, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on that. Several years ago, I went with a group of engineers from Tinker AFB on a tour of Mercruiser (back when they were building the Vette LT5 engine-----a double overhead cam engine) facility. It was IMPRESSIVE! The Chevy engines (and back then they still used a few Ford engines) were palletized and arrived in railroad boxcars. They just looked like your basic Chevy crate engines. They had V6, 305, 350, 454, and an unknown engine at that time-----------------502! Never knew such and engine existed! Today they are very common. As many Chevy engines as were shipped to Mercruiser (literally piled 4-5-6 high), I don't see how the quality control back at the Chevy engine assembly plants could be that much better for such a large quantity of engines. Plus, when you consider the total volume of engines that GM builds, you dont' see them flying apart everyday. The ONLY thing that would concern me about using a Chevy marine engine would be the internal rust issue. It would sure need to be vatted good at the machine shop. Cam profile, timing and tuning will be optomized for something in the range of 4-5000rpm max. We're talking about a run of the mill, go to the lake, boat engine-----------------NOT A HARD CORE OFF SHORE RACE BOAT!
 
And, the external components like Carb, Distributor, etc. all were "fire resistant" or had flame supression devices..... Don't want a fire in a boat! Friend has a "marine" ZZ4 in his street rodded truck. It had the strangest 2bbl carb you've ever seen on it.
 
The biggest difference between a marine engine and an automotive engine, from a block/structural point of view? The marine engine has brass core plugs. Lakewater doesn't have corrosion preventative chemicals in it, and saltwater is hatefully corrosive. Brass core plugs last longer than the more common steel plugs.

Well, maybe it also has a little more piston to cylinder clearance, too. At least, that's how I would build a marine engine--GENEROUS clearance, because the cylinder wall stays pretty cool in a boat that uses lakewater for cooling. Since the cylinders are cool, they don't expand much. Pistons run about the same temperature, though, so they expand just like in a car engine. Result--you need more piston to wall clearance to prevent scuffing.

As has been alluded to, the entire GM performance crate engine program began as a result of creative marketing of the marine engine product line.

There are other differences between a marine engine and an automotive engine, but it has more to do with accessories than the engine proper.

Cylinder heads will often--but not always--have extra-hard valve seats and extreme temperature (Inconel) valves. Reason: Performance car engines may see 6000--7000+ RPM bursts, but boats will run for hours at 5000 rpm/full load. The heat load in a boat is incredible, but you wouldn't know it to look at the coolant temperature gauge. Oil temperature gets insane in a hurry if you don't have an oil cooler.

Marine intake manifolds often have a brass insert for the water passage/thermostat opening.

A boat has a solid hull under the engine, a car is open to the atmosphere. Since fuel vapors collect in the boat hull, the Coast Guard requires carbs that are sealed to prevent fuel from leaking out the throttle shafts, and the bowl vents positively vent into the venturis. No paper gasket between the carb and spark arrestor to absorb fuel vapors and catch fire. The distributor and starter are special to prevent sparks from contacting fuel vapors, and the fuel pump will have a clear tube leading from the fuel pump vent into the spark arrestor and directed down the carb venturis. All these modifications either reduce fuel vapors, or the sparks that could ignite the vapors. The exhaust must be water cooled. On "factory installed" engines, this usually means water-jacketed exhaust manifolds, but "hot rod" boats just spray the water into the exhaust stream via small nozzles in the header primary tubes. (Wet Headers)

The wet headers work very poorly at idle--you may get enough exhaust reversion to bring liquid water in contact with the red-hot exhaust valves. You can guess the result. Therefore, some folks install wet headers with a throttle activated shutoff--the headers go dry at idle. I don't know if that's legal by Coast Guard standards.
 
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I have found that marine blocks usually have most if not all casting bosses drilled and tapped for motor mounts and accessories. I put a car 350 in a boat with the marine camshaft and external parts and found that I needed to drill and tap the bosses next to the timing cover to install the mount plate. Also some marine engines are left hand rotation and will have different camshaft and distributor.
 
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