[Navy_mike]

Hey everyone I'm having a real hard time getting my car to run right. Whenever I put it under a load it pops and spits back thought the throttle body.

I was thinking it was a timing issue but at this point I'm not sure.

Here's the run down. 64 pontiac gto with a 400, comp xe284 cam, 1.65 rocker edelbrock heads and atomic efi.

When I adjusted the valves I followed a few videos I watched on YouTube where you would watch the intake and exhaust valve close give the engine half a turn after then adjusted to zero lash with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn after

I'm getting a loud ticking sounds like the lifter but from what I've read these ex cams are ect really noise




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[jeff swisher]

Is this a new cam and lifters that just got installed?

I will assume you broke it in correctly and all lifters and cam lobes are fine.

Yes the comp magnum and XE line of cams are a bit tickity.
If you have the promagnum lifters those are Zero lash lifters, or anti pump ups.

All the XE and magnum cams I installed were noisy.

I actually used a Herbert solid lifter cam 235-245@.050 .500" on both sides.
The lash was set at .025" and I had oil restrictors in it.

That cam was quiet. Drove it for 2 years and stuck in a 280magnum hydraulic.
My buddy stated, Man so you finally installed that solid lifter cam.

NO I just took it out...

You will get plenty of people telling you how to adjust the lifters.
You need to know what lifters though.

 

[Boo.Man.1971]

What lifters do you have . Try to use the manufactures specs . when adjusting the valves.

 

[Navy_mike]

What lifters do you have . Try to use the manufactures specs . when adjusting the valves.

I'm using comp lifters that came with the kit


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[SS496]

You could try the old method of adjusting them with the engine running. I've done it plenty and it never failed t work.

 

[Boo.Man.1971]

High Energy ? Magnums ? Use Comps specs to adjust for those particular lifters that you have .

 

[bracketchev1221]

I'm not sure what videos you're watching, but first make sure you are rotating the engine in the direction of running rotation. Then pick one cylinder. Rotate the engine until the exhaust just starts to open. Don't turn it any more. Now loosen the intake until the pushrod can move up and down. Then slowly tighten the nut until you just cannot feel any up and down movement. This is zero lash. I like to put a white dot on the rocker nut at 12:00 position. Now rotate the nut 1/2 a turn until the dot is in the 6:00 position.

Rotate the engine in the same direction as before until the intake valve goes open and passes full lift and is almost closed. Stop turning the engine and now adjust the exhaust using the same method as the intake. When you are done, all the nuts will have a white dot at the 6:00 position. This way later on, you can pull the valve covers and know that they have either stayed put or moved. Also it allows you to make adjustments to the rocker if you choose later. If you choose to make it 3/4 turn, just move the dots on all the nuts to 9:00 position.

Also I don't remember exactly, but make sure you keep your order straight. I believe the Pontiac has the valve order of

EI IE EI IE

 

[Navy_mike]

I'm not sure what videos you're watching, but first make sure you are rotating the engine in the direction of running rotation. Then pick one cylinder. Rotate the engine until the exhaust just starts to open. Don't turn it any more. Now loosen the intake until the pushrod can move up and down. Then slowly tighten the nut until you just cannot feel any up and down movement. This is zero lash. I like to put a white dot on the rocker nut at 12:00 position. Now rotate the nut 1/2 a turn until the dot is in the 6:00 position.



Rotate the engine in the same direction as before until the intake valve goes open and passes full lift and is almost closed. Stop turning the engine and now adjust the exhaust using the same method as the intake. When you are done, all the nuts will have a white dot at the 6:00 position. This way later on, you can pull the valve covers and know that they have either stayed put or moved. Also it allows you to make adjustments to the rocker if you choose later. If you choose to make it 3/4 turn, just move the dots on all the nuts to 9:00 position.



Also I don't remember exactly, but make sure you keep your order straight. I believe the Pontiac has the valve order of



EI IE EI IE

Thank you that's very helpful! I was reading on a pontiac and saw this don't know if this make sense either

Number 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on compression stroke.
Adjust intake valve on #2 and #7;exhaust valves #4 and #8.

Rotate crankshaft 180 degrees clockwise and adjust intake valve on #1 and #8;
exhaust valves #3 and #6.

Rotate crankshaft 180 degrees again (TDC) and adjust intake valves #3 and #4;
exhaust valves #5 and #7.

Rotate crankshaft again 180 degrees and adjust intake valves #5 and #6;
exhaust valves #1 and #2.

Use 7/16 studs with polylocks (locking nuts with a setscrew),turn down
adjuster nut slowly while spinning pushrod back and forth with other hand until
all play is removed WITHOUT pushing lifter cup down into body.You should
JUST feel the pushrod get hard to spin.Then turn an additional 1/2-1 full
turn and lock it.





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[Boo.Man.1971]

Not all hyd. lifters are preloaded the same , I haven't seen what Comp type of lifters are being used . Like what Jeff mentioned in an earlier post , if there Comp promagnums , short stroke or anti pump up lifter , there adjusted from zero lash to 1/8 turn, anymore will ruin the lifter . I know I've done this , ignored Comps adjustment procedure and adjusted the valves 1/4 turn from zero lash and two lifters collapsed and failed . These lifters can be noisy , but the engine performs well at high rpm's, better valve control , the lifters won't pump up . Recommend again use Comps specs .on the lifters being used . Good night bedtime for me . Good luck

 

[Highway Star]

Your aftermarket cam may not allow for proper lifter preload the way you posted listing all the lifters that can be adjusted at a certain crank position. The failsafe method is the eo ic method, one cylinder at a time through the firing order.

 

[Navy_mike]

Well all the damn lock nuts backed off that's what the loud ticking was. I'm using the comp locking nuts. Are they one time uses? I took them on and off a few times during engine build so maybe that could be it? I mean a few are finger tight so I don't think all the cam lines are whipped out. I'm going to go lock for some Pollocks if not I'm going to run a jam nut on them


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[Highway Star]

Those nuts can wear out or loosen up. Be careful with poly locks because they may not clear your valve covers. At least that's the case with small block stuff.

 

[Navy_mike]

Those nuts can wear out or loosen up. Be careful with poly locks because they may not clear your valve covers. At least that's the case with small block stuff.

It was strange a few where figure lose and some where still tight. A rocker had come off on the drivers side! No wonder it ran so bad. I readjust everything like you guy said and used loctite on them and took her down the block.. Man she's a beast


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[65 Skylark]

I know this may sound off topic but is this a fresh rebuild? If so, and being a Pontiac, you may have another issue.

 

[Navy_mike]

I know this may sound off topic but is this a fresh rebuild? If so, and being a Pontiac, you may have another issue.

Well the short block isn't fresh the heads are used but been rebuilt and the cam is new. I broke it in according to the specs it called for and used additives. Changed it after and used more additive.

I was worried I whipped a lobe or two off or was pulling the studs out. But the nuts where very loss and the rocker had backed off. It wasn't loose do to a lobe wear and the studs where fine.

I think I may have just worn out a few locking nuts taking them off and on. She seems to be running like a top at the moment


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[65 Skylark]

Great to hear the problem is solved. The reason I mentioned another issue is, on a Pontiac there is a pipe plug in the back of the block at the end of the right side lifter galley. Behind it there is also about a 1" freeze plug. I know of three instances where the builder forgot to put the pipe plug back in but did put the freeze plug in. When this happens there is a loss of oil pressure to the right side lifters and they will never pump up and quiet down. Not a fun job to remedy once the engine is in the car and running because the trans has to come out to access it. Glad this didn't happen to you.

 

[Navy_mike]

Great to hear the problem is solved. The reason I mentioned another issue is, on a Pontiac there is a pipe plug in the back of the block at the end of the right side lifter galley. Behind it there is also about a 1" freeze plug. I know of three instances where the builder forgot to put the pipe plug back in but did put the freeze plug in. When this happens there is a loss of oil pressure to the right side lifters and they will never pump up and quiet down. Not a fun job to remedy once the engine is in the car and running because the trans has to come out to access it. Glad this didn't happen to you.

Oh man that would have been awful thanks for the insight that is somthing I definitely need to remember



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[Tom Mobley]

yeah, that's an old Pontiac gotcha from way back, like when they first brought out the 389 family engines. Or is that the 326 family?

 

[wagonman1967]

yeah, that's an old Pontiac gotcha from way back, like when they first brought out the 389 family engines. Or is that the 326 family?

Man that Pontiac deal brings back a painfull memory. I was working for a pontiac dealer and they bought in a nice GTO for that problem after being rebuilt. Me being nosy and appreciating a nice Goat went over to look at the engine. Well the hood was off and the hinges were compressed and when I leaned over the fender POW right in the kisser,almost lost my rt eye. That one left a mark I still have.:yes: