[jonfarrugia]

I've come to the conclusion that my steering /motor setup will require designing a custom centerlink. I'd like to get some suggestions on how to build it as well as what rod ends to use. All the stock components connect to the center link with a tapperd tie rod. I would assume both the pitman arm and the idler arm will need to be drilled out using a 5/8" striaght drill bit. Between the idler arm/pitman arm and the centerlink there will need to be some kind of spereical joint. The tie rods would connect to the centerlink using rod ends. I'm sure there are many ways to do this but I'd like to get some suggestions on the joints before I start designing one up.

 

[Matty B]

as long as the height from the ground and distance between inner tie rods are the same as the stocker the center link can be shaped any way you want . if you need pan clearance for your motor youll need to more or less make a big U under the pan large enough to clear the pan lock to lock. if the pan is still too wide then youll either need a dry sump pan to get the clearance or start redesigning the front suspension. Reason I say that is cause if you change the width or height of the inner tie rod locations you will affect bump steer or ackerman. I know youd probably hate hearing this but youd probably be better off in the long run attempting to utilize alot of the viper suspension. Either that or have a frame stub designed to clear the motor and provide you with the correct suspension geometry. The viper is probably too wide, if its not you could integrate the front subframe into the car. Otherwise call art morrison or chassisworks and see if they cant design something with another suspension system. Morrison builds frames utilizing c5/c6 suspension components and would be my choice in this situation

 

[Matty B]

you know, looking at your crossmember modifications, I think your ground clearance is gonna suck. Even if you lower the car an inch lower than stock, youre gonna have the same ground clearance as someone with a ride height of like 4 inches with an unmodified frame. Measuring off my frame the crossmember is about an inch lower than the bottom of the rocker and youres looks like its closer to 4 maybe 5 inches. What you need truthfully is to build a crossmember in front of the motor and figure out a way to mount the lower a arms directly to the frame rails which doesnt require a crossmember for support. Then you wont need to worry about the crossmember at all but then youll have to worry about steering. In that case youll need to get an end take off rack and tuck it right up against the oilpan. As far as width of the rack goes youd have to figure out what would give you correct bumpsteer.

If you look at this clip for a camaro that uses c5 suspension

I could see if you built a sturdy lower mount for the LCA's you wouldnt need a crossmember to brace it up. These are just some of my observations and also addresses the myriad of design challenges involved in doing a totally unconventional engine swap. Us LS1 guys have it easy compared to this but I know what your going through since Im putting an LS1 into a 50 Plymouth and steering has been by far the biggest hurdle to overcome.

 

[dannyb]

lots and lots of fab work here. Howe racing makes flat center links for stock cars, dirt cars ect. here is the site hope it helps.

http://www.howeracing.com/Steering/Index-Steering-Centerlinks.htm

 

[the heckler]

sure better be up on your fab and metallurgy skills to undertake that task. way too important a part to be experimenting with - safely...

 

[jonfarrugia]

you know, looking at your crossmember modifications, I think your ground clearance is gonna suck. Even if you lower the car an inch lower than stock, youre gonna have the same ground clearance as someone with a ride height of like 4 inches with an unmodified frame. Measuring off my frame the crossmember is about an inch lower than the bottom of the rocker and youres looks like its closer to 4 maybe 5 inches. What you need truthfully is to build a crossmember in front of the motor and figure out a way to mount the lower a arms directly to the frame rails which doesnt require a crossmember for support. Then you wont need to worry about the crossmember at all but then youll have to worry about steering. In that case youll need to get an end take off rack and tuck it right up against the oilpan. As far as width of the rack goes youd have to figure out what would give you correct bumpsteer.

If you look at this clip for a camaro that uses c5 suspension

I could see if you built a sturdy lower mount for the LCA's you wouldnt need a crossmember to brace it up. These are just some of my observations and also addresses the myriad of design challenges involved in doing a totally unconventional engine swap. Us LS1 guys have it easy compared to this but I know what your going through since Im putting an LS1 into a 50 Plymouth and steering has been by far the biggest hurdle to overcome.

The modified crossmember is actually only 1.5" lower then the stock crossmember. I'm not really worried about ground clearence.

 

[Matty B]

The modified crossmember is actually only 1.5" lower then the stock crossmember. I'm not really worried about ground clearence.

really?? looked like quite a bit more. In that case a centerling with a lower center section but with stock pickup points for the tie rods will work just fine. I say draw up something and take it to a machine shop and have it made. Or just take the stock center link to them and say I need this part lower by this amount and they should be able to fab something up. I had a set of steering arms made out of chromoly and they designed it in solidworks and cncd and heatreated them for 400 dollars so its defeinitely not crazy expensive to have some cnc parts made.