[Boilermaker128]

Hi all,

To follow up with my dyno thread, I thought it might be better to make a new one with the combo swap. As it’s clear I need help, please bare with me as I try to wrap my head around this stuff. I have the ability to work on my motors myself, but am far from an expert and am learning every day.

A bit of info….. (please let me know if you would like more)

My goal is to make 500 +/- rwhp.

The car will be driven on the street 99% of the time, with the exception of hitting a road track every now and again.

I drive the car to work (30min each way) and the occasional road trip (up to 1000 miles round trip). I live in the great white north so I only get use of the car 6-8 months of the year….leaving me a few months in between to do work on the car without sacrificing driving time.

SO here we go: It has been suggested that I change HEADS/INTAKE & CAM. Current set up is in my sig. I was told by the engine builder I had 10:1 compression ratio, but he also said I had a 600hp engine, so this means nothing. Current HP rating is 365 @ 5300 rpm and 409 ft/lbs of torque @ 3800 rpm.

So far I have the following suggestions for parts. (FYI this is a GEN V block)

-Brodix race rites heads- Need to know what size would be best suited for my needs.
-Edelbrock RPM Performer or AIR gap intake- Picked up an RPM Performer (used but in good shape).
-Comp Cam 11-451-8 (PRM range 2200-5800, IN 230, EX 236 @ 050 lift)

I still have a Lunati VooDoo cam and lifters I had bought for a previous engine, but was never installed. Spec’s are as follows: part no: 10110702, RPM range 1400-5800, IN 219 EX 227 @ 050 lift. Will this be sufficient, and will this cam work in a gen V block?

I have also been searching my local classified adds for used heads, but am leery about buying as I don’t know what I need. I don’t what heads that are way too big for what I have etc… I have found a couple that seem like a good price, and will post the info if someone will guide me through…

Again, if you want more info just let me know and I will do my best to provide it. Much thanks guys!:beers:

ken

 

[Boilermaker128]

Used Add # 1:


WCCH Edlebrock 215cc with 74cc chamber LS Motor Heads
Hey lads

I have a set of Edlebrock Aluminum West Coast Cylinder heads CNC milled for any LS motor. These heads are complete with stainless steel S.I. valves and Partriot Dual Gold springs rated to 650 lift. I paid about 3000.00 new for these with all the components. They will require a valve lapping on 4 valves as they are leaking but are in great shape other than that. These heads are very streetable and help make 841rwhp on 17lbs of boost on my old setup. I actually bought the same heads for my new setup but in a 245cc configuration
Only 6000km on them.

SALE PRICE IS $1299.

Used Add # 2

BRODIX BB2 BB Chevy heads. NEW with 1.640 springs & tit retainers, 10 deg locks, guide plates & studs. Disassembled to debur & blend ports. Ready to put back together. NEW & have not been used.

$2700.00 for Pair


Used Add # 3

454 oval port heads,2.19 1.88 ss valves ported polished,400 miles on heads (781's)

$400 for the pair

 

[cstraub]

What size is this engine? A 600HP at flywheel 468 is a nasty street engine that I don't know if I would want to drive 1000miles. A 600HP 496-505 CID is stout but not as nasty a beast as the 468.

Brodix heads need at least a 12 degree split at .050" to make power. The cams you have listed won't optimize the combo and what you have asked for is a combination.

If this is a 468 the brodix Oval is your best choice. If it is a 489 or bigger the Square port is your choice.

 

[Boilermaker128]

What size is this engine? A 600HP at flywheel 468 is a nasty street engine that I don't know if I would want to drive 1000miles. A 600HP 496-505 CID is stout but not as nasty a beast as the 468.

Brodix heads need at least a 12 degree split at .050" to make power. The cams you have listed won't optimize the combo and what you have asked for is a combination.

If this is a 468 the brodix Oval is your best choice. If it is a 489 or bigger the Square port is your choice.

Motor is a 454 punched .020 over...not sure what that makes it?

 

[cstraub]

You need a set of Oval port heads, AFR265's or Brodix 270's. 600HP is doable but it will be snotty. I would not want to drive it a 1000 miles.

If we can be of help drop us a pm.

 

[wotr]

Hi all,

To follow up with my dyno thread, I thought it might be better to make a new one with the combo swap. As it’s clear I need help, please bare with me as I try to wrap my head around this stuff. I have the ability to work on my motors myself, but am far from an expert and am learning every day.

A bit of info….. (please let me know if you would like more)

My goal is to make 500 +/- rwhp.

The car will be driven on the street 99% of the time, with the exception of hitting a road track every now and again.

I drive the car to work (30min each way) and the occasional road trip (up to 1000 miles round trip). I live in the great white north so I only get use of the car 6-8 months of the year….leaving me a few months in between to do work on the car without sacrificing driving time.

SO here we go: It has been suggested that I change HEADS/INTAKE & CAM. Current set up is in my sig. I was told by the engine builder I had 10:1 compression ratio, but he also said I had a 600hp engine, so this means nothing. Current HP rating is 365 @ 5300 rpm and 409 ft/lbs of torque @ 3800 rpm.

So far I have the following suggestions for parts. (FYI this is a GEN V block)

-Brodix race rites heads- Need to know what size would be best suited for my needs.
-Edelbrock RPM Performer or AIR gap intake- Picked up an RPM Performer (used but in good shape).
-Comp Cam 11-451-8 (PRM range 2200-5800, IN 230, EX 236 @ 050 lift)

I still have a Lunati VooDoo cam and lifters I had bought for a previous engine, but was never installed. Spec’s are as follows: part no: 10110702, RPM range 1400-5800, IN 219 EX 227 @ 050 lift. Will this be sufficient, and will this cam work in a gen V block?

I have also been searching my local classified adds for used heads, but am leery about buying as I don’t know what I need. I don’t what heads that are way too big for what I have etc… I have found a couple that seem like a good price, and will post the info if someone will guide me through…

Again, if you want more info just let me know and I will do my best to provide it. Much thanks guys!:beers:

ken

Why do you need 500 rear wheel hp?

http://www.vortecproperformance.com/engine_combinations.html L J

 

[Boilermaker128]

Why do you need 500 rear wheel hp?

http://www.vortecproperformance.com/engine_combinations.html L J

"Need" is a big word. I don't need it, but want it, or would like to have it, or close to it....What I want is to get into the car and know it's there if I want to use it. And when I do use it, I want to feel it suck me back in the seat and say to my self holey *****! (or out loud).

I'm a fan of power and want to squeeze some more out of this engine that can handle it. A simple head, cam & intake swap will be night and day, I just need to know what components will be best suited for how I drive the car.

If I go with the Brodix 270's, RMP Performer intake, and the comp cam 11-451-8 as mentioned, this would be a respectable combination?

thanks,
ken

 

[Monte442]

That cam is not correct for the Brodix heads.As Chris stated before a Brodix head needs approximately a 12 degree split on the cam to work correctly and that cam does have enough lift to make use of the port, lift is power, and the lobe separation is incorrect. With the correct valve timing events the lobe separation will probably end up at about 108 or 109. It would be money well spent to have Chris design a cam to work correctly with what ever head you choose, most catalog stuff will not get you where you need to be.

 

[Boilermaker128]

So I've been searching/reading and reading and reading....

After toying with the idea of spending big bucks for aluminum heads.....I think I'll go for the cast option with work done to them. I'm running flat top pistons and from what I'm reading, 781 heads are not going to give me good compression. Rather a 215's would work out from what I'm reading. I also read that I have to use a special head gasket to fit the IV heat to the V block, and I may have to get relief cuts in the cylinder walls so the valves will clear...? Is there a way of measuring valve clearance to cyl wall with out removing the piston?

And yes, I will talk to Chris about a cam option.....when the time is right:yes:

Am I on the right track going with the 215's?

This is what I'm looking at: (with or without springs)

1967 B.B.C. "215" oval port closed chamber heads, new 2.19-1.88 stainless valves, Comp.Cam. #26094 dual springs (155 lbs.@ 1.950 - 405 lbs.@ 1.400), Manley 10 degree retainers / locks, solid manganese bronze guides, hardened ex. seat inserts, 96c.c. combustion chambers, bowl blended, A.R.P. screw-in studs, 3/8 guide plates, resurfaced .020, positive seals.

thanks,

ken

 

[Boilermaker128]

ok....would a pic get anyone's interest?

I can pick these up for $700. I know your gonna tell me to save my cash and invest in aluminum, but it's tight and I am able to buy these now. I have asked for flow #'s, CC numbers and photo's of porting & will post when I get them.

Thoughts on the 215's?

In combination with a custom cam from Chris, and a RPM or AIR GAP intake, possibly a larger carb.....should get me in the 450-500 hp range...?

P.S. I'm on the road again and driving the Chevelle. Drove 7 hours today. Love passing, but need more get up and go than what I have now.

 

[Monte442]

The 215 is a good head,the price sounds real good, it will definitely be better than what you have now. See what he comes up with for info on the port work or flow numbers and if the chambers were actually poured by him at 96cc or if he is looking at published info. Even if it needed a little work in the bowls it still seems like a good deal. Aluminum is nice if you can afford it , but there is nothing wrong with that head for that price.

 

[Boilermaker128]

The 215 is a good head,the price sounds real good, it will definitely be better than what you have now. See what he comes up with for info on the port work or flow numbers and if the chambers were actually poured by him at 96cc or if he is looking at published info. Even if it needed a little work in the bowls it still seems like a good deal. Aluminum is nice if you can afford it , but there is nothing wrong with that head for that price.

:thumbsup: That's what I was thinking. I'm on him about the info and I will post asap.

thanks,
ken

 

[427L88]

And they already have enough spring for a nice hydraulic roller, which for a daily you'd like solid power from, I'd suggest.

 

[Boilermaker128]

And they already have enough spring for a nice hydraulic roller, which for a daily you'd like solid power from, I'd suggest.

Thanks Gene....I was wondering about the springs.

I'll try to get more info on these bad boys asap!

thanks
ken

 

[Boilermaker128]

Good morning!

Wow, time flies eh….I thought I’d just bring this thread back from the dead rather than making a new one. So just to remind you guys instead of having to read though all the other stuff… I’m working on a gen v motor that had pp heads on it with flat top pistons. The engine is rather new…. Must have 10,000 miles or so on it now (speedo is not working so I’m not sure). Builder had bored it .020”.

I’m looking for some more power and am going with the 215 heads. I bought the correct gaskets, ( VIC 4923 AND VIC 4918) bought from Perfect Egnine Inc out of CA... Had a hard time finding them.... but i did. Now test fitting/checking clearance and compression ratio at the moment.

Finally got some time to pull the engine out of the car. Took the heads off and am getting ready to install the 215’s. I cc’d the chamber last night and it came out to 100 pretty much bang on. (The heads had been milled .020”…)


So far, this is what I have for measurements:


Bore- 4.270" (+.020")

Stroke- 4"

Deck- .023"

Gasket- .042"

Piston- 5cc (for valves)

Chamber- 96cc

Should give me a CR of 8.95:1

Old heads were 123cc and gave me a CR of 7.55:1

I have also been doing homework and have bought a few books to help….

Big Block Chevy Engines by Tom Wilson
How to rebuild the big block Chevrolet by Tony Huntimer
Port and flow test by David Vizard
How to build horse power by David Vizard
Max Performance Chevy big blocks on a budget

 

[Boilermaker128]

Bad news...

PTV checks show me that the intake is way too close to the piston. I'd have to fly cut to make them work. I am thinking about changing out the flat tops with a dome -10.5 that will give me a compression ratio of 9.78:1.... with a bit of fly cutting on the new pistons, should be down to around 9.5:1.

If I cut the flat tops, my compression would end up around 8.09:1.

I will double check all my checks again before I order. Thoughts anyone?

thanks
ken