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69-CHVL

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got things together today to see how everything would fit. I have a Lakewood shield, CF DF clutch, and the CF t/o bearing. I was following the instructions from CC5S, which states that the fork must be about 5-7* towards the motor. We'll, I can't get it there. I have the Lakewood adjustable ball, and its almost adjusted all the way out. I have the pivot ball height setup DEAD ON to what CF specifies. To get the fork forward, it would actually have to hit the bellhousing. I must admit, when trying to install the trans, I put a big adjustable wrench on the end of the fork to try and disengage the clutch to get the trans in, and I think I tweaked the end of the fork a bit.

The pics show the fork all the way forward and hitting the bellhousing, and the other pic is with the fork pushed back and touching the clutch. Think its OK?

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Hi Vince,
what throw out bearing are you using, short or long. I would figure with a short bearing the fork couldn't be 5-7* forward when the bearing is against the PP fingers. I have a short bearing and your pics look like mine.

Here is something I found about the lakewood bell and the way they must be bolted together to be sfi rated. Some of the bolts are 1/2" and some are 3/8" now. I have an old 2 piece that has all 3/8" holes. I saw that you bought yours used.
http://lakewoodindustries.com/InstructionSheetsDownloads.aspx?ID=798
 
According to what I read on CC5S you can disregard the centerforce way of setting the measurement for the fork ball. The CF measurement might be a starting point and then adjust the ball to get the 5-7*
 
Vince,
The 5* angle they are referring to is talking about the arm/main body of the fork that is inside of the bellhousing (can not see in your pictures), not the flange on the tip that your clutch rod/linkage goes on. (the part you think you tweaked).

Without a clutch rod on there, yes the fork will be able to hit the forward slot of the bellhousing. You will have a large gap between the TO bearing and pressure plate at that point. This measurement is meaningless. So, ignore your first picture.

Here are a couple of pics of mine from the underside. So adjust your brain when looking at them. :) First pic is the linkage at rest. Normal gap between the TO bearing and the PP.(you don't have a pic like this, because you have no linkage hooked up at thsi point) Second pic is the TO bearing sitting against the PP fingers. My second pic and your second pic. (both with the TO bearing against the PP fingers) look to be about the same as far as;
1) the angle of the fork that is outside of the BH.
2) the distance the fork is behind that bracket on the outside of the BH (the one where you have to use small head bolts)
3) the angle of the tip of the fork where the rod linkage goes. (the part you think you tweaked)
Click on the below images and see what you think.
 

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Discussion starter · #5 ·
I'm using the CF bearing, not sure if its long or short.

After posting this I realized that CC5S does state to ignore the very end of the fork cause they have different bends/offsets to them (Jim, where are you when I need you). So, I think I'm OK b/c the main body does have angle to it.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Hey Jim, you know I appreciate it...although I suspect that you just like being under your car.

Seriously though, looking at your pics I would agree, that mine seems to be where yours is.

Let me highjack my own thread: Pennzoil has some syncromesh fluid (saw it at the parts store). Will that work instead of the GM stuff?
 
Robert is correct. The Pennzoil is a few bucks cheaper per quart and I believe it is actually the same stuff bottled for GM.
 
I'm using the CF bearing, not sure if its long or short.
The CF bearing is the short one. You can tell by looking at the groove where the fork fits. If that groove is basically right next to the bearing portion, it's a short bearing. The long ones have about an inch of extra material between the frok groove and the bearing itself.
 
GM part no. 3790556 is a non adjustable ball stud that is about .100-.125 longer than the Lakewood at full length. I have found it to work just about right for a scattershield and block plate. If you need more than that Mcleod makes an adjustable that is real long but it is pricey at @ $40. The GM piece is $10-$12, depending on your dealer.

As an aside, I have noticed that different brands of the "short" throwout bearing can vary by as much as .050"-.060". And once again Mcleod makes a throwout bearing about half way between the "short" and "long" GM ones that seems to work quite well with a scattershield.

I'm not pushing Mcleod stuff for any special reason. In fact I think their stuff is overpriced, and not just a little either. They do, however make some good parts.
 
VINCE ,I dont know if the new pennzoil syc lube is ok for the non muncie trans your runing(Tremac?), but here is what the pennzoil oil engineer said about it which i will list below. Does your trans call for a 5w-20 lor 80w-90ube? I knew the NEW pennzoil sync lube was not good for 30-40 yr old muncies before i saw this note,it was like water in the bottle when compaired to the std 80w-90 lube and the 5w-20 lube was too thin IMHO.
========================================================
Here is the info from the Pennzoil engineer:

Good morning, just spoke to the pennzoil tech dept, they said do NOT use the penn synchromesh in the muncie, it's a 5w20 and way, way, to light. They also said do NOT use a GL5 it will trash the bronze metals. They said the their GL4 product can generally be bought in a 35LB pail.
Jim

==========================================================
I am back again,boy isnt it funny how Pennzoil doesnt even list on the botle that the lube is a light wt 5w-20 when many of the man trans are still calling for 80w-90 too. Someone could trash a man trans over time if they use a 5w-20 lube in a man trans that calls for an 80w-90 lube,real nice. I looked all over that new bottle of pennzoil sync lube in a store & there is no mention of the very light 5w-20 weight or that its not recommended for older man trans requiring 80w-90 lube either,real nice.

For a muncie(As per Redline & Pennzoil oil engineers) we should only use GL-4 rated 80w-90 lube to protect the yellow metals/syncros in our muncies. We should use lubes like CRC's GL-4 rated 80w-90 Sta Lube,or Redlines GL-4 rated MT-90 80w-90 in our muncies. MT-90 is a new syn lube by Redline specifically re-designed with the appropriate coefficient of friction in the lube for proper sycro operation for smooth shifiting along with other properties to eliminate leaking both of which USED to be issues with syn lubes iofthe past when it came to muncies but isnt anymore with redlines new re-designed syn lube. The GL-5 rated 80w-90 lube you find in most stores today has additives that are too harsh for the syncros in muncies and can over a long period of time corrode/eat away the syncros and are also is too slippery for the syncos to operate correctly which causes harder shifiting too. Before i was aware of this a yr or so ago i drained & refilled my m20 with new GL-5 lube and it emidiately shfted very notchy & harder right off the bat after changing to the new lube. When i finally found out what was going on a yr later i drained the new lube and installed the gl-4 rated crc 80w-90 sta lube and the trans shifted better right off the bat/back to normal with no other change/s. So now i know this is true at least when it comes to the shfiting with GL-4 vs GL-5 80w-90 lube.
=========================================================
While i am at it here is the what Redline has to say on the subject when it comes to our older muncies:

REDLINE Synthetic Manual Transmission Lubricants

GEAR AND SYNCHRONIZER WEAR PROTECTION
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and
transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant.
GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials
are not used in most synchromesh transmissions
because the chemicals used to provide the extreme
pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers,
which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically,
the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh
transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one
half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears
and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly
as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A
GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most
manual transmissions, unless a unique design
consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5.
The reason that many manufacturers have made
recommendations of motor oils or ATFs is that petroleum
80W gear oils frequently do not shift well at low
temperatures. Motor oils and ATFs are much more fluid
at lower temperatures and they are not corrosive toward
synchros, but they provide very poor gear protection.
These lubricants provide almost no extreme-pressure
protection. In addition, petroleum multigrade motor oils
and ATFs have very poor shear stability. The shearing
action by a manual transmission on thickeners is much
worse than in an engine or automatic transmission.
Within 5,000 miles the thickeners can be rendered
ineffective and the transmission will be operating on a
much reduced level of protection, as shown in the graph
below. In hot weather these transmissions will whine
and rattle because of poor vibration dampening and
metal contact. Red Line MTL and MT-90 provide the
excellent gear protection of a GL-4 gear oil in a synthetic
lubricant which spans hot and cold temperatures and will
not shear or oxidize with use.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
Red Line MTL may be used in transmissions which
recommend 75W, 80W, or 85W GL-4 gear oils, or SAE
30 or 5W/10W30 motor oils. If a 90W GL-4 or SAE 40,
10W40, or 15W40 is required, MT-90 may be used. If the
transmission or transaxle requires an SAE 90 GL-5 gear
oil, then Red Line 75W90NS or 75W140NS Gear Oil
may be used. In transmissions which recommend Dexron
or Mercon fluids we recommend our D4 ATF which is
very similar to the MTL, being a GL-4 Gear Oil also. The
D4 ATF will provide better low-temperature shiftability,
and the MTL would provide better wear protection for
racing use. MTL is not designed for use in rear-wheel
drive differentials. Those generally require a GL-5 lubricant
such as Red Line 75W90 Gear Oil. It is not necessary
to flush the transmission before replacing with MTL.
Remove the drain plug and drain while warm. Seal
compatibility has been designed to be similar to petroleum
lubricants, and leakage should be no greater than
any other oil of comparable viscosity. Being formulated
with extremely stable synthetic basestocks, MTL and
MT-90 will last much longer than conventional petroleum
lubricants. However, we do not recommend extended
drain intervals, since without a filtration system, there is
no way to remove metal shavings other than draining the
lubricant. The regular maintenance intervals are also
recommended to insure that the proper level of the fluid
is maintained.


Red Line Oil's MTL and MT-90 are designed to provide excellent protection and improved shiftability for manual transmissions and transaxles, having cured the problem of hard shifting in thousands of transmissions with shifting troubles. How? They have the appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (many gear oils, engine oils, and ATFs are too slippery for proper synchro engagement). And, the wide viscosity of MTL and MT-90 allow proper shifting over the entire temperature range which the transmission will experience. The synthetic base oils used have a very high viscosity index which provides relatively constant viscosity as temperature changes. MTL is a low 70W at very low temperatures and a high 80W, nearly an 85W, at elevated temperatures, providing adequate viscosity to prevent wear and deaden gear noise. MT-90 is a thicker 75W90 version of MTL. The shear stability and oxidation stability of these products are excellent, thus the physical characteristics of Red Line MTL and MT-90 will change little with use.

MTL
MT-90

The MT-90 is a 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil that’s slightly heavier than MTL. Provides excellent protection of gears and synchronizers and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coefficient of friction, allowing easier shifting.


RED LINE SYNTHETIC OIL CORP.
6100 Egret Court
Benicia, CA 94510
(707) 745-6100
www.redlineoil.com
 
Scott, good info for the Muncies. But the Tremecs take a very light weight fluid. Spec calls for GM synchromesh. The Pennzoil Synchromesh is good for his TKO tranny. :thumbsup:
 
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