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Clutch adjust rod hits headers, small block?

5.9K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  Scott_68_SS  
#1 ·
I am doing a auto to 4 speed conversion on my small block '67.
I used a bolt screwed into the ball stud hole to use as a guide to place the z-bar frame bracket. With the z-bar located at this ideal spot, the clutch adjustment rod hits the headers. The only way to make the adustment rod clear would be to install it on the engine side of the z-bar arm(maybe not good alignment to clutch fork) or lower frame side of z-bar bracket, which may cause binding.
Has anyone experienced this?

Thanks- Rob
 
#2 ·
Time for a big hammer!!! :D


I had this problem on my Big Block. I actually bent the lower rod to go around the headertube. Of course, I have the Speed-Direct linkage, so I can still adjust/finetune the freeplay with the upper rod.

The clearance will vary with each brand of header, so you really have to look at what will work easiest on your setup... Maybe the big hammer will be the choice for you (or new headers?)...
 
#3 ·
Rob they all do, almost every stick setup from every year and header manufacter will have issues at that rod. BFH.
 
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#4 ·
I am doing a auto to 4 speed conversion on my small block '67.
What brand and part number header are you using. There are some headers that have strange fit, like no A/C, automatic only. Could be that or like the guys said, BFH your perfectly good headers, don't you just love it????
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#5 ·
I have a new set of ceramic coated Hooker Comp.s.
I guess I have no choice but to get out the hammer. I am surprised that with all of the how to articles I have read in this forum, nobody ever mentioned this problem with the headers. I guess it's best to keep the geometry of the clutch linkage as close to perfect as possible, and BFH the headers if necessary.
 
#6 ·
Did you try putting the rod in from both sides of Z-bar. Hooker instructions do mention that for 68-72.

Spend a little time on it before getting out the Ford tool.
 
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#7 ·
I did notice that it may work if I install the ajustment rod on the block side of the z-bar. The angle to the clutch fork may not be perfect, but when I get it on the road I will see how it works.

Thanks to all- Rob
 
#8 ·
Be careful changing the geometer of the clutch linkage. I wiped out an otherwise good Muncie when the front bearing retainer broke and input shaft "popped" out the front of the trans. If you press the clutch often enough with that linkage in the wrong position it will side load the front retainer and break it off.
 
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#9 ·
My early 68 has the short clutch fork. The earlier cars use it too originally I believe. The long ones are 3/16" thick I think. They each have there own z bar. The long one is the same as 2nd gen camaro's. The long one won't even clear my 80's header with a BFH. If your Z bar has two holes for the adj rod, then it is for a long fork. I'm tired and couldn't write that better :(
 
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