[AllGoNoShow]

I'm gonna try the shock nut trick on my 81Z at the track but just need some clarifications.

Heres what i found using the search function:

["At home for the first time.... remove the 3/8 fine thread lock nut and replace with a standard non-locking type nut and tighten down by hand using a socket and extension until snug. keep the lock nuts to have with you for use at the track.

1. At the track, remove the nut, washer and rubber bushing. put washer back on and then install the lock nut finger tight. both sides. store the nut and bushing to replace after racing."]

Now why do you have to remove the original locking nut in place of a non-locking nut? Why can't you just take off the original locking nut, take off the rubber and then re-install the locking nut finger tight?

Also, after putting the nut back on for track use, I only want to have it like a couple threads on, correct?(So it will be like an inch higher then were it was originally?) How does all the force from the front end lifting and suddenly hitting the nut and stopping not break or strip the threads on the shock? Seems like a lot of pressure is gonna be on the little threads/nut when you launch/

Thanks for the help.

 

[mc71454]

Hi,

The reason I suggest taking off the top nut at home is because, it being a lock nut or crimp nut, many times you won't be able to get it off...at all. You may ruin your shock top just trying to get the darn nut off, I have used air chisels, cut off wheels or a long extension and rocked it back and forth until the shock broke on various occasions when changing shocks over my lifetime.

Yes, it will be about 1" above where it usually is. The purpose is to establish some upward momentum without having to pull the shock along, The front suspension reaction is very fast.

The only stress you are exerting when the control arm hits the washer and nut is the stress to pull the shock up quicker than if it were to extend on its own (I am talking gas shocks here). The shock should not be able to get fully extended to put the stress on the upper shock nut and shock shaft since the bump stops will hit first.

Remember it is not supposed to DIRECTLY get you an increase in 60 ft, But it will allow quicker and better weight transfer for consistency improvements and some extra traction potential when the track may be borderline.

The rest of your suspension is just as important to not unload the rear tires.

Hope this helps...