Cheap Hazard Fraught. I've pulled a couple of big blocks with transmissions included, zero issues. I did upgrade to the pneumatic/hydraulic ram, sure makes it easier.
I haven't seen one of any brand that could conquer the washer on the shop floor obstacle, though

I have a second one that I use outside. It has 10" steel casters after I tried in vain to use pneumatics. I use it to move any and every thing around from engines to rearends.

I have a step van that I have to pull the 454 out the front in a couple of months. I think I'm going to rig something that attaches to either heads or exhaust manifolds but is rigid so I don't have to deal with taking up slack once I start the lift since I don't have room for slack at all. I think that most folks would be better off with something like this - even the ones that take their time to get the chain as tight as possible end up with the hook at least 6" above the highest point of the engine. That's valuable room that I'm sure you could use with your 7' ceiling.

 

I hear ya about the wasted chain length. I plan on removing the heads first, and then using a crane to lift the short block. I'm definitely going to need one of the fold up models to save room.

 

My nit with all the engine hoists I've used is that they always seem to hit the lower a-arms.

I just swapped out my engine in my '72, and had that problem again. Not unworkable, but annoying as hell.

Make sure you get one that has low slung casters if you can to avoid this issue as much as possible.

 

Thanks for the tip Steve. That won't bother me at least this time around, since I have the car raised up on jack stands, so I can remove the headers, and get to the lower bolts of the bell housing. I'll also be replacing the front upper and lower control arms, as well as installing new front coil springs, (Santhuff Hi-energy 18" x 5") and replacing the OE spindles with Chris Alston Chassis Works Tall/zero-drop spindles too. Once I remove the engine block, I might have to send it out to the machine shop, (not sure on that yet) and while I'm waiting on the work to be done, I can tackle the suspension upgrades while the headers are off and out of my way.

But I'll be mindful of your point about the wheel height for future use while I'm shopping for a crane. I'm hoping to buy one that I don't need to modify, so your point is well taken.

^ agree totally.
Shouldn't be that hard to fab up some mounts that use factory holes and relocate the wheel to beside the original location and lower everything a few inches.

OP: I have a couple that use valve handles that are spring loaded for the fluid release. HF had them for a couple of weeks and I bought an extra after I got the first to the shop and assembled. These are RED that fade to pink, not the typical orange-fade-to-peach from HF. It's so much easier to control the rate of flow than with the typical blade valve.

So, while the fabricator is at it, why not make a remote hand-held fluid release so you could do it yourself rather than having the idiot with ten thumbs who is helping you for the free beer lower it all at once and crash your polished brand new mill onto the crossmember and motor mounts...

Gary, thank you for your reply. I've only performed an engine installation once, and it was on this same car using my brother's manually operated vertical chain hoist he had mounted to the I-beam in his garage. I've never owned, nor even used one of these cherry picker engine cranes before. So I'm not even sure about what you're talking about concerning the hydraulic valve. I'll remember what you've explained about the differences in the ones with the spring loaded handles, but I'm not sure if I'll have any way of knowing if the one I end up buying has that feature or not since I haven't seen that listed as one of the features on any ones I've viewed on the net. Can it be that they all have that now?

I wasn't intending to buy a crane from Harbor freight, but I have to take a ride to the local HF anyway since they're the only place I know of that has a crane fully assembled and on display, and I want to take a close look at it, and even take some measurements of it, in order to figure out if I even have the room in my small garage to even be able to use one of these things. It isn't going to be easy. My condo garage is both short and narrow, and since my short driveway is on a hill, I want to avoid hanging the rear half of the car outside of the garage while I'm pulling the motor since the rear tires would be on a hill.

While I'm there@HB, I'll take a look at that. As far as rigging up a remote fluid release, I like that idea. That's something that I wasn't even considering, and you have my attention with that idea since I was planning on doing this alone without any help. Thanks again.

 

^ agree totally.
Shouldn't be that hard to fab up some mounts that use factory holes and relocate the wheel to beside the original location and lower everything a few inches.

OP: I have a couple that use valve handles that are spring loaded for the fluid release. HF had them for a couple of weeks and I bought an extra after I got the first to the shop and assembled. These are RED that fade to pink, not the typical orange-fade-to-peach from HF. It's so much easier to control the rate of flow than with the typical blade valve.

So, while the fabricator is at it, why not make a remote hand-held fluid release so you could do it yourself rather than having the idiot with ten thumbs who is helping you for the free beer lower it all at once and crash your polished brand new mill onto the crossmember and motor mounts...

 

Last two times I borrowed one from a buddy and its not even his. It belongs to a neighbor of his that suggested my buddy keep it in his garage. Its something that takes up a lot of room and is rarely used.
On another occasion I rented one from a tool rental place.it was heavier duty than the Harbor Freight type and took up no room in my garage because I took it back next day.
Another option. Buy it,use it, sell it.
Have to put the front wheels up on blocks to avoid trouble with A arms.

 

I have the Harbor Fright hoist. No problems with it whatsoever except it didn't come with all the nuts & bolts. They won't let you steal hardware from another kit so a visit to Home Depot solved it.

 

I have the HF one as well. Legs fold-up to save room, but it still manages to get in the way. My issue was the reach - even with the boom fully extended, it would hit the front of the car before I had it far enough back in the engine compartment. Ended up drilling another hole to allow it to extend further, but still enough of an engagement to be safe.

Good enough for the few times I've had to use it.

jim

 

.... My issue was the reach - even with the boom fully extended, it would hit the front of the car before I had it far enough back in the engine compartment. Ended up drilling another hole to allow it to extend further, but still enough of an engagement to be safe.



jim

That's^ EXACTLY the type of thing I want to try to avoid. I'd hate to spend a few hundred on a crane and then have to modify it merely to get it to do what I bought it for in the first place. I have noticed that some of them have a longer reach spec than others. Problem is that when I read the dimension specs, IDK where the measurement was taken from. But I guess I should aim for the maximum length that I find.

Do a search on Blue bird engine hoist's those are the best and the one most rental companies use.Those things are built like tanks with thick American made metal plus they break down and can be put away in minutes.Slide it under a work bench and you'll never even know its there till you need it.
There's one for sale in ElPaso Texas for $250 that is a great price I wish I was closer.

Hmmm... I've never seen that brand anywhere. Maybe they're the Lincoln floor jack of engine cranes, (at one time considered to be "the Cadillac" of floor jacks). Thanks. I'll do a search.

 

Do a search on Blue bird engine hoist's those are the best and the one most rental companies use.Those things are built like tanks with thick American made metal plus they break down and can be put away in minutes.Slide it under a work bench and you'll never even know its there till you need it.
There's one for sale in ElPaso Texas for $250 that is a great price I wish I was closer.

 

I’ve had my Bluebird for 40+ years. I only wore out 1 jack. Can’t beat the knockdown and it has lifted a Ford FE truck motor with a cast iron granny 4 speed out of a lifted 4x4 without a whimper. The legs are low because the wheels are in the legs and don’t swivel. It makes it much easier to maneuver. You cannot beat it.

 

I also have a HF 2 ton, bought it maybe 8 years ago, no issues, It has seen quite a bit of use and abuse in those 8 years. I also bought one of their engine tilters at the same time, it makes the lift so much more versatile, especially when working by yourself.

 

I got a AC Delco 34786 2ton. Used 3 times with no issues. Extensions are kinda a pain to take off and on though. I also had to cover the frontends with moving blankets. Got another set up on a 8" I-beam. Just have a trolley with a chain fall on it. Like using it, just put a dolly under the tranny, start lifting it and roll the car out as I'm lifting.

John

 

Purchased HF 2 ton this year. Pulled old 454 out for VortecPro replacement. No problems.

 

My Harbor Freight folding leg engine hoist lifted my 5.3 LS with the 4L60E attached with ease though the hydraulic cylinder needed a little oil on the day I assembled it all.

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

I bought the Harbor Fright one about 10 years ago. This is the fold up model and is pretty stout. I've pulled numerous engines with trannys attached, used it with a wooden sling I built to fit the cab and box on the '38 Chevy I built, lift and move frames, and straighten a trailer axle (axle placed under the legs) Anyway has been a great tool and folds up into the corner....

 

The "dirty secret" of cheap-junk engine hoists is "SHORT BOOM".

The only reason they have a 2-ton rating is that there's not as much leverage because the boom is so tiny. That also means the legs can be shorter, and the hydraulic ram can be wimpy. Weighs less, packages smaller, less-costly to make, less-costly to ship from the Communist Hellhole. They won't lift as high, sometimes tough to get the engine over the radiator support; and of course they're flimsy.

A "real" 2-ton hoist will have an 8-ton ram. Or bigger.

Here's mine, lifting far more than it's rated for. Cadillac 500, Eldorado FWD TH425 transmission, front section of frame with suspension, steering, and wheels/tires. Tip of the boom is higher than the garage door opening. That's not as high as it goes, that was just about enough to load the thing onto the trailer.

If the photo doesn't load, you can view it at:
http://hbassociates.us/Engine_Hoist_01.jpg


Downsides are that it doesn't fold up, and it's been discontinued by the manufacturer. (Excel W1000)


If I ever find a used one, I'm buying a spare.

 

https://www.icfinc.com/products/engine-lifts

 

I bought a "strongway" cherry picker from nothern tool. In all honesty I as trying to buy the cheaper harbor freight hoist but they were sold out and northern was next door. The good news is the strongway came with the leveler included, although the price was higher. Easy to put together, folds up pretty small, and works well (although its pretty simple). The only thing i cant answer is if how close to the front end you would be, the whole front end was off the car when I put the engine in. All in all it feels sturdy, folds up nice, has rotating casters on all of the wheels, did what it was supposed to do

 

I took my engine out from the side. Without tranny

 

I don’t own one but, cause I’ve used forklifts and overhead hoists in the shop. But I did see one at Autozone looked really good quality. I thinks it’s duralast brand. That might be china stuff to wouldn’t doubt it. I remember it was 2 ton under $300 bucks and it was folded up on display.

I’d be careful modifying one specially to increase reach. A little over extended probably won’t hurt but keep in mind your alone. It’s when you start pushing it around that it could tip forward.

I have used customers cherry pickers in tight mechanical rooms to replace and repair large 2000lb pumps and when moving it around your tempted to pull on what your lifting, don’t.

 

It’s when you start pushing it around that it could tip forward.

I have used customers cherry pickers in tight mechanical rooms to replace and repair large 2000lb pumps and when moving it around your tempted to pull on what your lifting, don’t.

Thanks for the tip. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

And thanks to everyone here for your input. The Sunex and Bluebird brands of hoists look very nice, but there's just no way I'm going to buy either one of them simply because they don't have all their wheels on casters that swivel and I'll need to lift the engine over the fender by rolling the engine hoist side ways. So for me the 360 degree swivel castered wheel on the legs is a MUST. As is the folding option, since I don't have the room to store it if it doesn't fold up.

Ilthough I'm a bit leary on aynthing Harbor freight sells, I'm going to take a look at them in the local store since so many of you guys here seem to like the ones you bought from there. BTW, did you guys have it shipped to your home or did the HF store load it onto your pick up truck beds? If it's the former, did your hoist get delivered in two boxes, or in three? And was it a lift gate delivery to your home? If so, was it on a wodden pallet?

I'm considerig this Ranger hoist here. It folds up, has the pins instead of bolts, and had 360 degree casters on all corners. A little pricey, but it looks like a nice piece. And BTW, I'm guessing that they're ALL made in the "communist hell hole" china reghardless of what brand they are. Perhaps Blurbird is an exception to that rule, but with wheels that don't swivel, it would be worthless to me...

https://www.garageappeal.com/rangerrsc-2tf2-tonfoldingshopcrane.aspx

 

Purchased mine from Costco back in 1993 for $180. The legs are removable so it fits in the corner of the garage. Still works great!

 

Those wheels on the front of a Bluebird lift will just slide easy like on a concrete floor with a nudge from a 2X4 or a shop size pry bar,the wheels are almost 2" wide. Ya just kick the legs with your shoe and it slides over. Sounds crude but it works and I even used it on gravel in Pa many years ago when changing my Brothers 350 out of his 82 Chev 3500 P/U.