[Clyde_Maston]

I'm running a 331 in my 66 chevelle. With the stock non-vortec heads, I was running about 190 F. I switched to new vortecs and now I'm running about 200-210 F. I run a 216/228 at 0.050 lunati cam and with the rest of the goodies, I should be running about 325-350 horsepower. The car has a stock 2 core radiator with a 165 thermostat and an internal transmission cooler in the radiator. it has a standard stall convertor. I am planning on buying a new radiator. I can buy aN OEM 3 core radiator with the internal transmission cooler from Advance with a lifetime warrenty for $200. Do you think a 3 core stock radiator will be big enough for 350 horsepower?

 

[HOTRODSRJ]

Well, you want to make more horses and if you do you will have to burn more fuel and therefore have more heat which means more waste heat which means more heat to get rid of.....right?

First, a paramount question.... does it run hot at idle/slow speeds or cruising or both? The answers to these are two differing issues.

Idle or slow speed overheating is due to lack of adequate airflow or shear radiator area. Cool at idle, but hot at cruising may be a lower collapsed hose or more likely a too lean carb (this is especially a true on newly reheaded engines). If it's hot all the time then it could be plugged passages, more likely a faulty thermostat or shear radiator area.

I am not buying old technology copper/brass/solder radiators anymore. There is a dictionary of reasons why! Start with efficiency which is the most important. A three row stock might cool your applications but I can assure you that a new large-tubed dual row aluminum radiator from PRC ( www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/157 ) would cool it.

Basically you get what you pay for so you be the judge. In general "universal" radiators or "racing" raditators are poor performers on the street.

I hope this helps.

 

[Clyde_Maston]

The car gets to around 190 at idle and then the harder you run it or the bigger the hill you go up the hotter it gets, up to around 210 F.

I'm sure the PRC's are good radiators but there is no way that I will pay over $400 for a radiator. Just can't do it. I'm trying to decide weather to go with a universal aluminum radiator with an external transmission cooler or a copper OEM 3 core radiator with an internal transmission cooler.

Clyde

 

[Mike Feudo]

There is no reason a stock Chevelle radiator if it's good shouldn't cool a 331. Are you sure you don't have a detionation problem? Remember vortecs like about 30deg max timing.

 

[Clyde_Maston]

If its detonating, then I can't hear it and the plugs are clean as a pin. I think i have a very lean condition and the radiator isn't the best. I just bought a new 3 core today for a 66 chevelle. I should have it in by tomorrow afternoon. I also richened up the mix.

 

[Clyde_Maston]

I bought a new 3 core radiator that fits a 66 chevelle with a 396. I figured if its good enough for a big block then it should handle my 331. Its working fine and keeps the care running about 170 with a 165 thermostat.

Clyde