I had the same problem with my 454, good trick is to run cold hose water over the radiator, with a large house fan in front if you can.

I also went to a 4 core, but it really wasnt necessary

-Ryan

 

Try advancing the timing. Retarded timing will cause overheating.

 

How did you fill the engine with water? Sounds like it could also be an improperly filled engine.

Jody

 

220° is NOT overheating. I wouldn't worry about it. Just for comparison, the stock fan switch, from the factory, in one of my other cars (83 Z28) is set to 235°. In other words, in the factory's opinion, the engine does not even begin to need cooling until it reaches that temp. And furthermore, the fan shuts off at about 210°; which means that that's all the cooling it needs.

And it doesn't matter that it's a later model car, or an electric fan, or any of that; temp is temp, water is water, castings are castings, no matter the age or shape of the sheet metal surrounding them.

The boiling point of water is 212° at 1 atmosphere. At 1 atm, the boiling point of water/antifreeze mixture is around 235°. At 17 psi, typical radiator cap pressure, the boiling point of water/AF mixture is at least 20° higher than that. So, if your cooling system is properly maintained, "overheating" doesn't occur until somewhere well in excess of 250°.

So don't worry about it, do what you need to do; just make sure you have a good radiator cap installed and a suitable coolant mixture in it, like 60/40 or 70/40 water to AF.

 

the radiator is filled up right.... we left the heater hose off of the intake and filled it up till it started coming out of it and then stuck the hose back on then filled it on up to the top.....

 

Originally posted by RB69SS396Conv:
220° is NOT overheating. I wouldn't worry about it. Just for comparison, the stock fan switch, from the factory, in one of my other cars (83 Z28) is set to 235°. In other words, in the factory's opinion, the engine does not even begin to need cooling until it reaches that temp. And furthermore, the fan shuts off at about 210°; which means that that's all the cooling it needs.

And it doesn't matter that it's a later model car, or an electric fan, or any of that; temp is temp, water is water, castings are castings, no matter the age or shape of the sheet metal surrounding them.

The boiling point of water is 212° at 1 atmosphere. At 1 atm, the boiling point of water/antifreeze mixture is around 235°. At 17 psi, typical radiator cap pressure, the boiling point of water/AF mixture is at least 20° higher than that. So, if your cooling system is properly maintained, "overheating" doesn't occur until somewhere well in excess of 250°.

So don't worry about it, do what you need to do; just make sure you have a good radiator cap installed and a suitable coolant mixture in it, like 60/40 or 70/40 water to AF.

Getting a new engine THAT hot can ruin the ring seal.
The general was required to have their engines run at those excessive temperatures for emissions reasons, i wouldnt recommend anyone run a modified engine at those temperatures.

Excessive engine temperatures can cause detonation.

 

well its not a totally new motor...... just new cam but the excessive heat can still be a big factor....... maybe well get er' done tommorow so i can take her out for a little test drive may have to go see the tire man

another question when breaking in a cam and say u run it for 5 mins then have to shut it off and rebreak the cam in...... how much wear and tear does that do to the cam im hoping not much.....

 

No problem breaking in the cam in different sessions. The time is cumulative. Four 5 minute sessions is the same as one 20 minute session as far as the cam is concerned. Just make sure the engine fires right up. Excessive cranking can wipe a cam. Oil splashing on the cam/lifter interface is what it is all about.