the seat pressure is to much . I wouldn't go over 130 lbs . They are more suited for a hyd roller ,or solid flatt tappet. I would change springs.

 

It's way better to have a little extra than not enough. The springs will probably lose 10-15 lbs. of pressure very quickly. If they are double's you can take out the inners until the cam is broken in.

 

NelsonV,

Let me see if I have this correctly.
You bought big-buck RaceRite Ovals and you ordered a $100 cam and lifters from Summit? Are you kidding me?

That is one dinky cam considering the potential of your heads!

The good news is that the same grind is used by GMPP, think a boat engine cam.
Probably not a BAD grind but certainly not one that will take advantage of your heads...lots better grinds out there considering how much you have in cyl heads!
Edit:
That cam is more suitable to a low-buck bottom-feeder engine.....

The springs on the heads are too strong for that cam....

 

If you can return them I would #1 and get a full refund. If you can do that I would them contact Woflplace on here who has sold many Brodix heads to others on here....he will make sure you get the heads done exactly as you need. Then in addition he can advise you on a cam because I think the previous posters are correct in that your Summit cam choice is quite mild considering the expense of the heads you chose. If you want a low buck performance cam maybe step up to a solid flat tappet...maybe one of the old relaible Isky grinds or one of Harolds UltraDyne cams. Good luck

 

If you can return them I would #1 and get a full refund. If you can do that I would them contact Woflplace on here who has sold many Brodix heads to others on here....he will make sure you get the heads done exactly as you need. Then in addition he can advise you on a cam because I think the previous posters are correct in that your Summit cam choice is quite mild considering the expense of the heads you chose. If you want a low buck performance cam maybe step up to a solid flat tappet...maybe one of the old relaible Isky grinds or one of Harolds UltraDyne cams. Good luck

are you serious? so you are telling this guy to spend a lot of money to return a pair of heads, only to turn around and order the exact same heads from someone else?

is this the twilight zone?

 

Do like I did and as George said, get a cam that works with those heads, at least a hyd roller and you'll be glad you did.

 

I actually ordered the heads to replace my old peanut port heads with a broken valve spring.

The intent was to replace the heads now, then dig into the short block at a later date.

The cam in question was already in the bottom end I had hoped to not touch at this time. But I think I have (since this weekend) decided to go ahead and do some massaging to the rotating stock and cam.

 

I got this from CamQuest:

Comp Cams Solid Lifter XS268S (p/n 11-676-4)
230/236 at .050
Lift .553/.568 (std rockers)
Lobe centerline 110
Intake centerline 106
Solid- Great for street machines, largest cam for stock converter.

How's this cam sound (with 1.7 roller rockers)?

 

What is your compression ratio?

And I would either send the heads back and tell them to ship ones that I can use w/ a mild to midrange hy-cam SPRINGS OR take them apart and install taller retainers OR at least .050" taller keepers to drop the springs down into the 125 pound range!

You figure springs this way.

changing seat pressure first.

Seat pressure - the amount of pressure the taller retainers and keepers create by (rate x change in installed height)!

The new open pressure is just the original open pressure - the new seat pressure.

And thinking about this more, like 30-A rider said, contact Mike!

pdq67

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Yup, before you do anything else. Contact Mike Lewis here http://www.lewisracingengines.com/
Mike is great to deal with and will take the time to answer your questions and get you up and running again in no time.

 

Go with a solid ft and keep the heads as is. You will be glad you did......

Just look up here how to break in a cam properly, and you will be fine. Get EDM hole lifters for added insurance. Run Delo 400 oil, remove inner springs for first 25-50 miles keeping rpms down, and be done with it.

I would use this:

Lunati 402A1Lun
adv - 272/272
@0.50 - 238/238
Lift - .550"/.550"
LSA/ICL - 110/106
Lash - .020"/.022"
Solid; Good idle. Good replacement cam for LS-6 motors with very strong mid range and top end torque and horsepower. Needs 2200-2500 RPM
stall converter, headers, 9:1 compression ratio and 3.55 gearing.

You will like it.....

 

BTW, other info on the tags:
Seat pressure 150, Open pressure 370
Valve lift 600

and I'm using a Summit Hyd. flat tappet cam (1302)

I have spoke to Summit tech line and they recommend 115 seat, ~300 open for those cams.

 

A solid flat tappet or a hyd roller is what is needed for those heads. The RaceRite's like alot of duration split, around 10 to 12 degrees depending on inches of engine and rpm range desired for power.

 

If you go by cstraub suggestion on the split duration needed, then the 402A2 looks real good:

Adv - 272/282
@.050 - 238/248
Lift - .550"/.570"
LSA/ICL - 112/106
Lash - .020"/.022"

Solid; Fair idle. Very responsive high performance street cam. Needs 2500 RPM stall converter, headers, 9:1-10:1 compression ratio and 3.55 gearing or better.

 

Yah baby? :yes:
Great advise considering the heads you have bought.
I ran O race-rites for a couple years with a solid flat (LS6) and a solid roller cam (much bigger). Don't deprive them of some extra air.
It will be a good move.
Find a cam with as much lift and duration that your compression will be happy with to match those springs and your off to the races....
Think of what the heads cost. A new solid cam cam & lifters is not that big a piece of the pie $wise.....yet a critical piece.
Tell us a little more about your set-up....carb....intake etc......
Just my $0.02.
We all want different things.

 

I was running a Voodoo 60204 hyd cam with 140 seat 400 open. My new Brodix heads have 150-380 for my solid flat tappet but with a 650 lift max. Im running a modified Lunati 402A3.

 

I still would suggest the 402A2, and if you want to save money, keep everything else. That cam is on a 112, and should have plenty of vacuum for brakes. This would be a very nice setup. I am not too keen on the intake and carb, but it would do for now.

 

Agree!

pdq67

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