[wildman926]

Go with a solid ft and keep the heads as is. You will be glad you did......

Just look up here how to break in a cam properly, and you will be fine. Get EDM hole lifters for added insurance. Run Delo 400 oil, remove inner springs for first 25-50 miles keeping rpms down, and be done with it.

I would use this:

Lunati 402A1Lun
adv - 272/272
@0.50 - 238/238
Lift - .550"/.550"
LSA/ICL - 110/106
Lash - .020"/.022"
Solid; Good idle. Good replacement cam for LS-6 motors with very strong mid range and top end torque and horsepower. Needs 2200-2500 RPM
stall converter, headers, 9:1 compression ratio and 3.55 gearing.

You will like it.....

 

[wildman926]

If you go by cstraub suggestion on the split duration needed, then the 402A2 looks real good:

Adv - 272/282
@.050 - 238/248
Lift - .550"/.570"
LSA/ICL - 112/106
Lash - .020"/.022"

Solid; Fair idle. Very responsive high performance street cam. Needs 2500 RPM stall converter, headers, 9:1-10:1 compression ratio and 3.55 gearing or better.

 

[wildman926]

I still would suggest the 402A2, and if you want to save money, keep everything else. That cam is on a 112, and should have plenty of vacuum for brakes. This would be a very nice setup. I am not too keen on the intake and carb, but it would do for now.

 

[wildman926]

Hydroboost has me not concerned with vacuum..... unless there's a different reason I should be concerned.

I also have a hydroboost setup on both my Chevelle and truck. It works awesome on the Chevelle. Got some tweaking to do on the truck.

You can see it HERE