It won't be a problem to resand the basecoat with 600 grit and reshoot as long as you haven't cleared it yet. Some clears, like House of Kolor lift if you spray a noncatylized basecoat on top of the clear.

 

you can clean up the base, but then you have to thoroughly scuff the base and reapply another coat before doing the clear.

 

Thanks guys, that sounds like a life saver. This is my first paint project and I am learning lots! Even when I picked up my paint (the base coat) the parts people asked me if I wanted lids for the mixing cups they gave me, silly me said no thanks. Little did I no that it would be nice to have some additional base coat mixed before you start painting. That stuff goes quick. And the sand lines, I didn't see them even after wiping everything with a wet towel after wet sanding, but the paint is dark blue and I suppose it shows a lot. Thanks again, Jerry. By the way, what should I use to scuff the base coat?

 

Just wet sand it with the 600 grit. Dry it off good and blow out all the places water can sit with your air hose. Then spray your basecoat.

 

I forgot to mention. Don't forget to wipe everything down good with some wax and grease remover and use a tack rag on it before you spray.

 

A lot of times on dark colors it will still show scratches, but they will not show after clearing, light colors are another story. I believe there are a couple basecoats you cannot sand, PPG isn't one of them. When buying paint ALWAYS ask for the tech sheets on EVERYTHING your using.
Watch that wax and grease remover, It will REMOVE fresh basecoat, best to wipe with a clean damp towel, do not touch the panel with ANY body parts

 

A lot of times on dark colors it will still show scratches, but they will not show after clearing, light colors are another story. I believe there are a couple basecoats you cannot sand, PPG isn't one of them. When buying paint ALWAYS ask for the tech sheets on EVERYTHING your using.
Watch that wax and grease remover, It will REMOVE fresh basecoat, best to wipe with a clean damp towel, do not touch the panel with ANY body parts

You shouldn't use the W&G remover between coats of base or between the base and the clear - that will mess up the bonding of the base coat with the clear. use it only if you are scuffing and reapplying base. I'm sure that's what you meant

 

You shouldn't use the W&G remover between coats of base or between the base and the clear - that will mess up the bonding of the base coat with the clear. use it only if you are scuffing and reapplying base. I'm sure that's what you meant

Base coat is un-catalyzed, most if not all W&G removers WILL eat into the BASECOAT. Heck, try it on some fresh clear and it will haze it up.

 

Base coat is un-catalyzed, most if not all W&G removers WILL eat into the BASECOAT. Heck, try it on some fresh clear and it will haze it up.

yeah and guess what it does to your butt if you absent mindedly put the rag in your back pocket and forget about it :clonk: Had a .. ... *friend* .. .. that did that once.

 

yeah and guess what it does to your butt if you absent mindedly put the rag in your back pocket and forget about it :clonk: Had a .. ... *friend* .. .. that did that once.

That is nothin, I worked at a paint factory and wiped up a small spill of Amino acid and did the same thing:clonk: First and second degree burns on my cheek and back of my leg.

 

I ran into the same thing with my lite green metallic. Had wet sanded with 600, then shot the base and clear. Next day I could see sand marks that I know were not there becasue I had guide coated it. But the metallic managed to find every little nook. We're going to repaint it shortly, but will prep with either 800 wet or 600 wet and a fine scotchbrite prior to base.

 

I ran into the same thing with my lite green metallic. Had wet sanded with 600, then shot the base and clear. Next day I could see sand marks that I know were not there becasue I had guide coated it. But the metallic managed to find every little nook. We're going to repaint it shortly, but will prep with either 800 wet or 600 wet and a fine scotchbrite prior to base.

This is one of the reasons I use sealer on ALL my jobs, the color covers faster, and better adhesion also.

 

I use all House of Kolor products. The wax and grease remover really isn't that strong. I gentley wipe down the the panel that I'm airbrushing in between color changes to get rid of overspray. It doesn't mess up the color unless you scrub on it.