[ZZ69chevelle]

What's the deal with glue today? It's been years since I built a model, and since I've been laid up, I thought I'd toss one together to pass some time. The new Testors stuff is total crap. Even after a day of setting up, the parts just fall apart. It used to work by melting the plastic together, now it just globs up and sends stringers everywhere. Hell, I doubt you could ruin the windshield with it. Is there something better out there? For those who build them, what are you using? I got over 100 kits in the closet to build, but it ain't gonna happen like this.

 

[FLASHED]

The last one I built didnt stay together very good ,very stringy as you said .I think its because of whatever they had to take out of it that stupid kids were huffing .I too have a hundred or more but the glue just sucks so I just let them sit .A good hobby shop might have something better but we dont have a good place anymore .

 

[YankeeRodder]

Sign making supply companies sell Weld On #4. I use it on acrylics. It is water thin and melts the plastic together. No need for anything sticky like the old Testors stuff. Almost instant set. It's nasty stuff though, set up a fan for fresh air.
.

.
Weld-On 4 Acrylic Adhesive - 4 Oz and Weld-On Applicator Bottle with Needle: Contact Cements: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[RAMBO]

I buy the superglue / Cyanoacrylate they sell at RC airplane shops.

They sell several formulations, some that bond instantly, some that give you a min or two before it sets hard.

million times better than the old cement stuff...

Be sure to keep some of the adhesive remover on hand though! you will eventually glue fingers to things!

 

[chevelle355]

Try maybe a ZAP brand of glue from a hobby shop.

 

[RichardB]

I buy the superglue / Cyanoacrylate they sell at RC airplane shops.

They sell several formulations, some that bond instantly, some that give you a min or two before it sets hard.

million times better than the old cement stuff...

Be sure to keep some of the adhesive remover on hand though! you will eventually glue fingers to things!

I build radio control model airplanes and CA is used almost totally. I've used it on plastic as well but they do make a CA just for plastic. The thin is probably too thin for plastic models but I don't have experiance there. I use medium for windshilds.

Acetone works great for getting the glue off fingers though. You get alot more for the money than buying the small bottles of remover. It will also come off all by itself in a day or so because of the oils in your skin. I've built so many planes I've used gallons of the stuff, lol. Wonderful product.

Richard

 

[JWagner]

That super thin CA glue is so runny that it is uncontrollable. I would avoid it.

 

[SSR71]

There are solvent liquids for gluing styrene that work very well. But they evaporate very quick too.

Tenax 7R
Plastruct Plastic Weld or Bondene (I use Bondene to fix cracked ABS auto parts!)
Same Stuff plastic welder (from Micromark - basically same as Tenax)
Ambroid Pro-weld

Unfortunately, it appears that the Tenax stuff is no longer available (I may have to raid the local shop next time I'm there). Bondene works well and evaporates slower so you have more working time.

Being liquids (like water), you can't just squeeze it out on a part. You'll need applicators to use it.

 

[Coppertop]

Is the superglue / Cyanoacrylate they sell at model airplane shops different somehow then regular superglue / Cyanoacrylate??

The reason I ask is my experience is the "regular" stuff outgasses as it cures and leaves a foggy, whiteish residue on clear transparent plastics. This would be unacceptable if I ever eventually get to my vintage motorized Revelle Visible V-8 engine due to all the transparent plastic pieces.

 

[Buzzbomb]

Is the superglue / Cyanoacrylate they sell at model airplane shops different somehow then regular superglue / Cyanoacrylate??

The reason I ask is my experience is the "regular" stuff outgasses as it cures and leaves a foggy, whiteish residue on clear transparent plastics. This would be unacceptable if I ever eventually get to my vintage motorized Revelle Visible V-8 engine due to all the transparent plastic pieces.

Testor's sells something called "clear plastic cement" that you could use for this as well as model car windshields, etc. My Dad had one of those Revell V-8 models. It was pretty cool, I wish I still had it.

The tube Testor's glue isn't that great, but the regular one that's in a container with a tapered plastic end on it works great.

 

[RAMBO]

Is the superglue / Cyanoacrylate they sell at model airplane shops different somehow then regular superglue / Cyanoacrylate??

The reason I ask is my experience is the "regular" stuff outgasses as it cures and leaves a foggy, whiteish residue on clear transparent plastics. This would be unacceptable if I ever eventually get to my vintage motorized Revelle Visible V-8 engine due to all the transparent plastic pieces.

There are many different formulations beyond the generic CA superglue...
Thick, thin, slow dry, fast dry... more
I'd wager there is one specifically made for clear applications too.

Best bet is to go to a model RC shop or message board and ask there... I'm sure they don't want their clear plastic fogged either, and have a product for that purpose. The shops near me have a 4x4 block of wall that is all specialty glues.

 

[Chris R]

There are solvent liquids for gluing styrene that work very well. But they evaporate very quick too.

Tenax 7R
Plastruct Plastic Weld or Bondene (I use Bondene to fix cracked ABS auto parts!)
Same Stuff plastic welder (from Micromark - basically same as Tenax)
Ambroid Pro-weld

Unfortunately, it appears that the Tenax stuff is no longer available (I may have to raid the local shop next time I'm there). Bondene works well and evaporates slower so you have more working time.

Being liquids (like water), you can't just squeeze it out on a part. You'll need applicators to use it.

Testor's sells something called "clear plastic cement" that you could use for this as well as model car windshields, etc. My Dad had one of those Revell V-8 models. It was pretty cool, I wish I still had it.

The tube Testor's glue isn't that great, but the regular one that's in a container with a tapered plastic end on it works great.

These are all the same products I use for my HO scale model railroading hobby, including the Testors glue in the tapered bottle, has a pin hole sized metal tube that comes out of the top that will form a droplet the size of a pin head, I have never had a problem with it. They actually all work pretty good. Tenax 7R is no longer made but there is still plenty of it available on the open market. Its basically a chemical called MEK, or Methyl, Ethyl, Keytone. Yes, there is adhesives out there designed for glueing in window meterial. Its basically a clear acetate.

Todays plastic is also different then it was years ago since plastic is essentially, a petroleum based product.

 

[67RAT]

dropped testors long ago,I just use the green and white tube of ==== CRAZY GLUE.

bob h