I run a procharger on a SBC in a 72 monte carlo.

Thank you,
Barry

 

i am, 70 chevelle, 489, f1r procharger, all stuffed under a stock steel hood

 

That's awesome! Does it make stupid HP?

Wonder if that would fit under a 69 hood?

 

I wish....my neighbor a block over does.

 

I am running a D1SC, 10 lbs boost, no intercooler on a 502. Got it all to fit under a factory, but non-funtional cowl induction hood. The car has been running for about a year and a half now.

 

guys both of your cars are so amazing sweet and I am in both awe and full jealous rage at them......

 

They make insane power.Last night at the track,there were at least 6 cars with Pro-Chargers.Several were running race gas and a couple were on Methanol.Saw a buddy in his 70 Roadrunner,with a 500in.wedge and a F2 on methanol,he foot braked it to a 5.36 and lifted at around 600'.A couple of small block cars went 6.20's,with F1's,on race fuel.Most guys run a 6" cowl hood.

Congradulations to Billy Smith,Small tire bounty winner(three in a row).BBChevy with a single turbo in a 2003 Mustang,on a 28x10.5.How fast is it?

High 4"s. :thumbsup:

 

theres a guy here that runs a 496 in a 71 chevelle; the same one you see on prochargers adds that runs 8's and he drives it on the street. its silver with blue ss stripes

 

Eric what track do you race at in Crossville? Do you know a guy named Rich Rice?

 

im running brodix rr oval ports, polished, torq 2 intake, polished(shortest single plane) custom hyd roller, man. turbo 400, 2.75 first year, 12 bolt with 3.50 gears, full interior, car weighs 3720 with 10 gals fuel
i have run a bunch of prochargers, so i should have known better than to order it with a serp. belt with the man. idler, so slippage was a problem, still ran a 9.93
i swaped out the drive for a cog setup, had a custom drive made for the fan/alt, so i still run a clutch 7 bladed fan, type 2 p/s
im running an hei with a dig. 6 msd, wired to a hobbs pres. switch for timing retard
also made a cold air package to pull in outside air, cooler than off the back of the supercharger

 

VG, are you keeping up with this thread? Funny, we just had a similiar conversation. I would really like to see this thread grow in detail. Thinking a 8.5/1 alum rec port shortblock would be perfect for about 10-12# boost w/o an aftercooler. Pretty much a very simple deal bolt on deal.

 

hey forcedind what compression ratio are you running? did you do anything special with the head gaskets? o-ring,copper,steel???? also did you just use the carb you had? or did you have to buy a special (BLOW-THRU) carb? what ever that is. thanks for your answers. like i said i need real street info.thanks again..

 

you need a carb modified for a blow through application. the fuel curve is a lot richer than a naturally aspirated set up . they generally use annular discharge boosters and specialized emulsion tube and bleed setups to get a rich enough mixture at boost but still have lean mixture at cruise. that plus the carb has to now deal with internal pressure instead of atmospheric. the best place i know of for blow through carbs is CSU.http://www.csucarbs.com/750.html as for all the specs you need the 1st thing we need to know is how much power do you want to make

 

I still don't know what "Forcd Ind" name is, but he knows his stuff. You should have your carb made from either CSU or the Carb Shop that knows what they are doing. Do not try to do this yourself. I forgot to say that I do not believe you will ever get a procharger with a BBC under a pre-1970 cowl or cowl induction hood unless you have an aftermarket hood. I made the tradeoff of running a ATI bonnet with a Weiand Team-G manifold that just clears my hood. If I used a CSU bonnet which flows much better, I would sacrifice my manifold. I don't know if his '70 is running, but I will gladly make a video of my car spinning tires, sound, and everything if you want because it it DONE, DONE, and DONE!

 

Is there anybody here that doesnt want to see video of this monster??????

 

hi just another mike..well here is some of my info.(WHAT I HAVE)---69 chevelle ss 3845 lbs with me in it and 6-7 gal of gas. 496 solid roller motor,afr 315 heads,742 lift cam,victor jr intake rec port,steel crank,h-beam rods,forged s.r.p. pistons,msd dist and 6al box,holley h.p.950,jesel shaft rockers,turbo 400 w/brake,ati 3500 converter,4.11 gears,posi,30 spline racing axles,c-clip elims,lift bars,h&r parts bar,adjustable front/rear shocks,moroso trick front springs,moroso rear springs,all steel body except fiberglass cowl hood.car runs low 11s. (WHAT I WANT)---this car to run mid 9s. is it possible ? p.s. full inter car also.

 

hi just another mike..well here is some of my info.(WHAT I HAVE)---69 chevelle ss 1845 lbs with me in it and 6-7 gal of gas. 496 solid roller motor,afr 315 heads,742 lift cam,victor jr intake rec port,steel crank,h-beam rods,forged s.r.p. pistons,msd dist and 6al box,holley h.p.950,jesel shaft rockers,turbo 400 w/brake,ati 3500 converter,4.11 gears,posi,30 spline racing axles,c-clip elims,lift bars,h&r parts bar,adjustable front/rear shocks,moroso trick front springs,moroso rear springs,all steel body except fiberglass cowl hood.car runs low 11s. (WHAT I WANT)---this car to run mid 9s. is it possible ? p.s. full inter car also.

You sure about that weight? Must be those new composites everybody is talking about, lol.

Seriously, a F1R or F2 will get you there with room to spare. Not sure what your compression ratio is but if you're in the neighborhood of 8.5-9.7 then this will be a straight bolt-on. You might want to look at getting a blower specific cam and a different converter, but you can throw it on there and see how she likes it. You'll make unbeliveable power with these things. There is a member here on this board fixing to unleash his beast "very soon" and should easily run 8's on pump gas. Maybe he'll pipe in here and give us the details, hint, hint.

 

Here's a little something to wet your whistle. Not a Chevelle, but a 79 Camaro that I've been working on (which seems like an eternity). She was an old drag car but is now being converted back to street duty.

Thats an EFI 540 with a gear driven F2

This is a shot of the air-2-water intercooler and alcohol/water injection tank

 

Hey Rob, I think I know that guy....I was gonna call you soon but I'll let the cat out here. I took it to the track yesterday for the first time and made 3 squirts. 1st pass, soft launchoff foot brake, just rolling onto the gas, spun the tires in low gear and high gear, coasted to a 8.40 @ 60. I took a couple more degrees out of it, tried a low rpm trans brake launch and rolled onto the gas. 1.57 60 ft, spinning the tires, short shifted to high gear, was able to get my foot to the floor for the first time and rolled out a 6.60 @ 113 and change. For third shot I rolled a little more pinion angle in, a slightly higher rpm brake launch, rolling onto the gas again, went 1.50 in 60 then rattled pretty hard. I back pedaled but couldn't get it to hook so we coasted through a 7.04 @ 83. Didn't hit anything so we loaded up and giggled all the way home. It was hot, I have it backed down quite a bit so it wasn't fast but it went fairly straight and we didn't hit anything so I am absolutely stoked!!!

For those who don't know me, I mostly been lurking lately as I have been working on the car. I was a member early on (Al even featured my 65 Camino in June 97 I think it was) but lost interest in the drama and bickering on the boards in the early days and let the membership go. I started checking back in about 2 years ago and it's nice to not see so much of that anymore. I am now finishing up a complete rebuild of my Camino. Engine is a Steve Morris 540 with a F2 on a pump gas tune up (and backed down even further right now while I get a handle on the "new" car). Powerglide, stock type suspension on 295-65 M/T drag radials. I haven't weighed it yet but it is all steel except hood, no lexan. Looking forward to duking it out with all these mustangs we have around here.

Regards/ Dave

 

And oh yeah, for the original question, although I've only had it out on the street a few times, it drives quite well so far BUT, prepare yourself for a lot of tire spin if you're on small tires like I am. I managed to scare the crap out of a couple people who have ridden in it.

R/ Dave

 

Hey Dave,hows about scarin me.Just kiddin.Where'd you make the passes?

I-40 was hookin real hard Fri.and Sat.Don't know bout Sun.though,I didn't go out.

 

i like to run my comp. around 9-9.2, mainly if i ever pull the blower, i still have some comp. to make it run decent-most of my stuff is geared to the street now, dont have the reflex's to go fast(lol)-im running mls head gaskets, but have used receiver groove on high boost engines
for a street car, i like oval ports in a b/b, and a hyd roller, but cam/heads are where your power is going to come from, so if you want that killer combo, you gotta step up-i have seen 10.4 comp used with 14 lbs boost non i/c'ed w/110 octane with no problems
i ran a 9.4 comp s/b with 18 lbs boost and an a/a i/c'er, plane old felpro heads gaskets and a self modded carb, tore it down and perfect seal
what i am trying to say is there is so many diff. combo's out there that work, that having the right tune is prob. more important than anything-afr's in the right place, i like 11's, but have seem them in the 13's and car running fine, some kind of timing retard, good machine work, flat head and deck surfaces, forged pistons, carb capable of flowing fuel, real good fuel pump and boost ref reg., i let Kevin at csu do my carb if im running something serious, they have so many tricks with carbs now-a lot of guys are running locked timing for better fuel burn at lower rpm's, along with timing retard
sometimes you ruin parts trying to get something right, i blew up a 540 on the first chassis dyno pull, boost retard failed, i wasnt allowed to run the car because of insurance, and didnt think to tell the operator if a light didnt come on it wasnt in retard, had i been in the car, i would have noticed no light and shut it down-i use a hobbs switch in the carb hat, preset at a certain boost, and it makes a make circuit, which sends 12 volts to the msd digt. 6 for a retard, i wire it also to a light, which comes on and tells me its got a circuit
if your curious what a hobbs switch is, its a pressure switch that can have make/break contacts, various boost/pres. levels-great for turning stuff off/on(except nos-lol)

 

like all the guys have said, timing and fuel under boost is critical. You can run 10 to 1 but if you lean on the boost you need water/ alcohol injection or racing fuel and an intercooler. you could run what you have with a cam change and the right carb . if your interested i can find out the details for that 8 sec 71 chevelle tomorrow when i stop over at the engine shop. i think it has ran an 8.80 best

 

hey GNICHOLSON, that would be great. also my car weight was way wrong.. its 3845 with me in it. my comp ratio is 9.8-1......like i said i am running low 11s now and want to run mid 9s... is that possible with just adding a procharger?? or will it also take a cam change with that special carb.?

 

hey GNICHOLSON, that would be great. also my car weight was way wrong.. its 3845 with me in it. my comp ratio is 9.8-1......like i said i am running low 11s now and want to run mid 9s... is that possible with just adding a procharger?? or will it also take a cam change with that special carb.?

you will absolutely need a modded carb to run blowthrough. Cam swap likely depending on what you're running now, lsa, etc.

Jody

 

Low 11's to mid 9's is a huge jump. Provided that you're hooking good, the procharger should get you well into the 10's, imho.

 

my motor dynoed 703 hp, so i was hoping that a procharger would put me around 900/1000 h.p.. and that might put me in the mid 9s. is that possible?

 

one thing you may not be considering, but you have enough power to be running well into the 10's now. So if low 11's is all the car will go with 700 hp then you're going to need to make the car work and hook first, otherwise the extra power is going to make things even worse.

Jody

 

Running mid 9s would not be that hard with your combo. My Monte weighs 4100 pounds and has run low 10s at over 135 on P275 drag radials. Could easy run high nines if it would ever hook. The motor is a mild SBC with an F1R at 15 psi.
You will need a new fuel system to work with the blower,reworked carb,and I would change the cam. My compression is 9.5 so yours should be fine if your going to used C16. I would recommend at least a Procharger F2.
Go over to Turbomustangs.comyes: turbomustangs.com) in the blowthrough forum and read read and read. Than read some more.:thumbsup:

Thank you,
ProchargerHulk

 

Mid-9s should not be a problem. My car is a turbo car but it still weighs 4000+ and with a 3.25 gear and a 1.72 60 ft it still goes 9 teens and twenties @ 159mph. The 1/8 mile times were it the low 6's but at 125 mph. I have to stall it to 3000 to get it to leave without stumbling when the boost comes on but it tends to push through the lights. And I keep forgetting to activate the boost controller. If I get my poop in a group it will be it the 8's. My last pass this weekend everything was looking real good until the sprag broke on the 1/2 shift. After letting up and making sure it would go into third it still ran 10.10 at 153.

I would go 8.5 to 1 comp and with the f-2 blower. My friend has the F-1R on a 408 sbf and is running it at max impeller speed. Its making about 800rwhp. He is running a serp belt but modified a spring tensioner from a International diesel to bolt onto his manual tensioner. It will make 20psi now with no belt slippage and actually less tension on the belt. His air to air may be a restriction but we have not tried bypassing it yet.

The challenge with the carb is keeping the afr safe. It seems to be harder to do with a blower than the turbo. The boost on my turbo engine stays basicly flat. So you tune for a safe afr and it stays there. With the blower boost increases with rpm so it leans out the higher you rev it. My buddies car runs 11.0 to 1 at 10 psi but leans out to 12.2 or so at 20psi. That not bad with race gas but on 93 you might have trouble.

 

Lemonice
I built my pro charged chevelle with info from this site people here know what works. My car is a 69 with gm 454ho crate motor. The stock hood could be made to work but it would be close. I have 3 inch rise. M22w Auto gear 4 speed with moser 9inch and 4.30 gears. the power is insane on the street first gear is usless. With a cowl hood you can put your fuel gauge and boost gauge in the back of the rise works great. My purchases
1. Buy procharger from SDCE with belt spring tension kit 401-826-4400
2. CSU carb works great and has drivability for the street.
3. aroemotive a1000 pump with sumped stock tank 10 an with 8an return
4. pro charger D1SC
5. carb hat EXTREME VELOCITY

Iam trying to post a video of my car on right now.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/de4e5b79-8307-4010-8d39-999e017834fb.htm