[1wicked55]

Thanks for all the info!

I want to keep it as original as possible.

The only thing I really want to change is to disc brakes. Unless they make good drum brake shoes that actually stop cars.

What about the front seat. The lower has a bad hole in the cover. Should I buy a new cover or just have the bad area fixed.

I do remember the paper work said it had HD suspension package. What does this include on a early build 67?

 

[blm]

I want to keep it as original as possible.

What about the front seat. The lower has a bad hole in the cover. Should I buy a new cover or just have the bad area fixed.

That depends. Once you get a better look at the car You should determine if the car is really a survivor. Which would mean it retains the overwhelming majority of its original parts. Or have certain items already been replaced. A survivor would have its original seat cover and most likely including the hole. An original car would have most of its original parts but certain items have been replaced with NOS parts or good original representations. if desired you could purchase and install a seat cover that would be very close in appearance to the original cover.
Many enthusiasts when dealing with a survivor wish to keep it so. Along with the patina that it has developed. In that state you will not have a car that is pristine. It will show the wear and tear of its years. However it will be your car and if you want to fix it up and make things shiny then that will be your decision.

 

[wjspindler]

Cool find I have owned a dozen or more 67s,but never found a survivor. I would think that is a fairly rare find I would love to find one. I hope it's everything you think it is. Good luck with the deal ,hope it works out for everyone. Lets see some more pictures.

 

[DROPTOP L-89 LS-6]

Have the front seat repaired that's an easy fix on a 67.

 

[67since67]

I want to keep it as original as possible.

The only thing I really want to change is to disc brakes. Unless they make good drum brake shoes that actually stop cars.

One man's survivor is another man's resto-mod candidate. Once you swap to disc brakes the survivor aspect is going away in a hurry. I have '67s with manual drum, power drum and factory 4 piston PDB. As I drive them, I don't feel or think about the difference in the brakes from one to another.
That car was driven for 62,000 mile with the original drum brakes and if the system is in good condition, it will continue to work as originally manufactured.
Now if you intend to swap in more horsepower, upgrade the suspension and install big rubber, then you need disc brakes and the survivor aspect is history, it's just another modified Chevelle. JMO

 

[70RAIII]

I'd keep the drum brakes... It makes driving more interesting...

BTW - I'd start at 20k.... I think that's fair. If she wants full boat market value... Then she can get it going..etc.. and market it to the masses..

 

[Alwhite00]

I'd say 20k is more than fair but i would be extremely happy to find one like that for that price.

LK

 

[1wicked55]

I will keep you guys posted as soon as I get it.

Maybe I can find some Hi Perf brake shoes to make the drums work better.

 

[1wicked55]

Thanks for everybody's input.

 

[TerryAT]

Did I miss something? You say as soon as you get it. Did she accept an offer from you?

 

[Stickman]

Maybe I can find some Hi Perf brake shoes to make the drums work better.

Someone posted this site earlier..may be worth looking into for drums...

 

[1wicked55]

You didn't mis anything. I'm going pick the car up the same time I make the offer.

 

[Pete 67]

After seeing the pics, yes, that car is worth a lot more than $10k! :yes: I'd be shocked if she didn't jump at your offer of $20k.

I really hope you get it. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is itching to see pics of the car out of that storage unit.

Good luck! :thumbsup:

 

[japar]

Don't wait to long she might call A$$ MONKEY

 

[TerryAT]

You didn't mis anything. I'm going pick the car up the same time I make the offer.

Making an offer doesn't guarantee a sale. I hope you get it, but maybe she knows more than you think.

 

[1wicked55]

Making an offer doesn't guarantee a sale. I hope you get it, but maybe she knows more than you think.

Your right

I'm going to make the offer in person and ready to pick it up.

 

[TerryAT]

Whats the latest on the car? Did you get it?

 

[plain 69]

Has it got the chrome bezel on the floor that covers the shifter boot?

Still a good buy at 20k+. Hope you get it.

 

[jeffschevelle]

Update please!!

As to changing stuff, don't change a single part that does not have to be changed to make it operable and safe. And as between repairing/rebuilding the original part versus replacing it with a new part, always repair/rebuild where possible on a car like this.

The drum brakes will serve you fine unless you're planning on going auto-crossing! New shoes and put kits in all the wheel cylinders and that'll fix 'er right up.

As to the seat, take it to a good old-school upholstery shop and they can replace the one section that has the hole, and leave the rest as is.

As to the engine, Jim Brady is 100% correct. I've got two cars that were not even cranked for over 20 years, and both of them were revived and run great, without ever opening up the engine, using pretty much the same process Jim describes.

As to things like the radiator, again be very careful before replacing versus having properly repaired. An original 66-67 big block radiator can command hundreds, even thousands of dollars on eBay (two 4-row rad's sold for $3500 each during 2013). Yet I have seen way too many cars where a generic replacement or repop radiator was installed and the original was tossed for scrap metal!!

One question -- If it was sold new in CA then it should have a smog AIR system. Does the seller have all those parts? If so, then you'll want to get all of that and keep it with the car, even if you don't reinstall the system.

Anyway, great find, hope you get it. If you don't I might have to fly to Portola and drive around until I find it myself.

 

[6t7chevelleSS]

A question for Jeff or someone else who might know: On the picture with the trunk open, I noticed the black paint on the rear panel black where it laps into the trunk/weatherstrip track goes straight across. On mine, as well as other cars that I've seen, the black paint angles up the seam. Which is correct or does it matter? Just curious. Thanks.
I hope the OP gets to buy the car and keeps it as original as possible....I enjoy seeing them like this.