http://www.wegs.net/wegs/rogerchevelle/chevelle_19991230_004.jpg here's a pic of my 67 floor w/factory buckets and console. you can see two mounts but the front one is covered up in the picture. I don't know if the console brackets are available aftermarket. The hole in the bottom is for a light and you can get a kit to switch it over to a quarts movement. It you don't want to switch it over, take the rear cover off and file the points clean. It should start working again and be as unreliable as they always were.

 

Thanks alot. So do I need to weld a shifter hump in to get to console to fit. I can probably fabricate some brackets to hold the console.

 

To tell you the truth.....I don't know if you need the hump or not. I'd expect a large gap between the floor and the console right there though.

 

The brackets are available from most Chevelle suppliers... They should be spot welded, but I have seen them pop-rivited and even screwed (function fine)...

I have not seen a quartz kit for the console clock, but I know someone offers a repro clock with quartz already installed...

As for the floor hump, NO, its not required... IF you want the factory-looking boot, then you'll need to install the "hump", but if you are going to hide an aftermarket boot under the console, then the hump won't be necessary... the three mounting brackets mount to the floor and NOT to the hump piece anyway...
A separate "in-console" boot is offered by suppliers, and should hide most aftermarket boots (If thats what you want to use...


WARNING: Most suppliers offer two different Humps... AFAIK, the '67 with consoles use the same "hump" as all 64-66 Chevelle manual-floorshifts... Not really a "hump", the correct one has the large oval hole...

The other "common" offering is much larger "hump" with a smaller round hole on the flat top... I think this is correct for GTOs, but NOT Chevelles...


IMO, I'd just by the "hump", the boot and the oval retainer... Really not that expensive...

 

Here's some food for thought from someone else that has been through this. Note: my car is not a concours resto for points. If that's what you want, ignore this advice.

Before your start with the console, make sure the tranny and shifter are installed and both bucket seats are bolted in (even temporarily).

Tony is correct on the hump. It's not required if you use an aftermarket boot. In fact the hump is a PITA when you have to take the tranny out again because it gets in the way of removing the shifter mounting bolts etc.. I used a Hurst Competition Plus shifter with an adapter for the stock Muncie stick. You can't tell my shifter mechanism isn't stock and it's WAY better than the Muncie shifter.

As for the brackets, they are readily available and cheap. Here's a way to locate them correctly. Mount them to the console where they need to be. Make sure the metal floor where they will need to be attached is clean (use solvent and then remove all rust). Then put a dab of PC7 epoxy or JB Weld on the bottom of each bracket and postion the console where it needs to be mounted permantently. Press down slightly and let sit overnight. The next day just remove the screws that hold the console to the brackets, remove the console. The bracket will be epoxied in the correct position for welding or bolting. Fasten the brackets to the floor in which ever manner you choose. (I screwed mine down).

One last hint, when you think you have the console positioned correctly with the epxoy under the brackets, make sure you shift thru the gears to insure it is and the shifter isn't hitting the inside edge of the boot opening. Also, climb into the back seat and straddle the hump. Then sight down the sides of the console to insure it's straight front to back. It will be very obvious if the nose or tail is out of kilter from that position. The console sits off to one side of the centerline of the hump but it must be straight from front to back, not crooked.

That's the only way I know to really tell if the console is positioned correctly front to back and side to side and where to mount those damned brackets.

 

great information. thanks alot. not looking for a concours resto, just a good looking street rod. the hole is butchered where my shifter comes through. very bad job and too much sheet metal cut out. this area needs fixed just to look good. I may weld the hump because I have to do floor pans anyway. I'm also using the comp plus shifter. I also need to incorporate wiring into this new console since I had a column shift previously. Need to get power to the light and clock, and also need to find some sort of switch to activate my back up lights. Does anyone have any suggestions or guidelines on the wiring portion of this? I really cant figure out where to mount a switch for the back up lights with the comp plus shifter.

 

... I'm also using the comp plus shifter. I also need to incorporate wiring into this new console since I had a column shift previously. Need to get power to the light and clock, and also need to find some sort of switch to activate my back up lights. Does anyone have any suggestions or guidelines on the wiring portion of this? I really cant figure out where to mount a switch for the back up lights with the comp plus shifter.

Buy the Hurst switch, easy... $32 from Summit...

http://store.summitracing.com/partd....com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HUU-2480003&N=700+303484+115&autoview=sku

Its been a while, but I think the regular harness (under dash) has plugs where a console can be "plugged in" (console lighting will be, I think) Orange, White and Grey wires)... So you just need to buy or make a harness to plug into what you have already...

Same goes for the "backup light"... IIRC, there is just a Dark Green wire, and the switch goes inline to complete the circuit... You should be able to tie this in under the dash (original backup light switch from the column)...

Get a wiring diagram (or assembly manual, wiring diagram in there too)...



Herb brought up a good point, get the shifter and seats installed first... IMO, the console doesn't have a "perfect" place to be, as long as it "looks" good...

I later swapped a Richmond 5-speed in mine, and it move the shifter back slightly (an inch)... To make it look good, I actually moved the Hump and console back an inch, but left the floor brackets alone (just a simple "two-hole" bracket to mount the console back an inch)...


The Comp Plus fits well in the factory Hump, EXCEPT thew upper shifter bolt... It fits, but no way to easily remove the bolt once the trans is in place... My factory 4-speed car had a knotch cut into the hump hole edge, so the bolt would clear...

 

The console wiring harness is available aftermarket. You can also buy a reverse light switch kit from Hurst that mounts under the car on the shifter.

 

Yeah, DON'T weld the hump in. Use hex head short sheet metal screws to mount it to the floor pan. Notching it for the top shifter bolt won't be required if you can remove it. Use strip caulk to seal it to the floor pan so it can be removed. THINK AHEAD when deciding where to put the mounting screws. If you evern need to remove the console and then the hump, you don't want to have to pull the enitre carpet up to get to a screw yo put at the base of the hump. Keep them as high and on the sides as you can. Let the caulk seal it at the bottom.

Everyone is giving you good advice. Buy a console wiring harness. NPD has them as do others. They do plug into the existing harness.

Since the original shifter was a column shifter, the car was an automatic. The side-by-side plug the went on the column switch to detect reverse can be plugged into with 2 spade lugs. Then the wire gets routed down under the carpet and console to the Hurst reverse switch. Then you will easily have back-up lights without butchering the factory harness. It's an easy do so use the Hurst back-up switch. Just bite the bullet and buy it. Then don't grouse about how you could have made it for $5. You didn't, they did and it will work so just use it (been there).

Good luck and let us know if you need help. the rest of us had to figure this crap out ourselves and wish someone had told us this stuff when we had to do it. ;-)

 

Thanks for the good advice and rest assured that it will be followed. I have already asked what seems like a million questions on here and always get good advice. Hopefully after I tear this car apart and redo it, I will have some advice of my own to give back. Once again thanks for the advice, because I'd like to avoid as many of these live and learn mistakes as possible. With the price of these parts mistakes can be very expensive.