Sort of been there done this. My 66 came to me with new front coils. The previous owner said he liked the jacked up in the front look.

I did not.

So I took them out and cut about a half coil off and reinstalled. Ok for awhile, but later I cut another one third coil. Just about right for now.

There are a myriad of front springs for these cars, search on here. You can get repros for small blocks, big blocks and other combos of ac or none, etc.

I would just cut, say, a half coil at a time and check until it was about right.

Or get new springs, they arent very pricy.

 

Thanks for the reply rkd. The springs I'm trying to put in are new. I don't remember the PN but they are for a SB w/o AC. Am I indexing the spring correctly? As stated above I'm putting the blunt end of the top of the spring in the indention in the upper control arm. There's nothing I can see on the lower that would indicate where the spring should be placed. It was a bear getting the coil spring out and the new one back in. I imaging cutting the spring will help a little bit. I used a compressor but man that thing was cumbersome. It took me 7 hours to change the spring. The idea of doing it again makes me sick. I will probably cut a whole coil since the old ones are a coil shorter. I was dragging the header collector whenever I'd hit a small bump. That's why I wanted new springs. I was looking for a 1" lift, ended up with 3"

 

Just correcting my stupidity above. The indent I was referring to is in the frame, not the upper control arm. 7 hours of crawling around on the ground trying to replace a single spring fried my brain I guess.

 

Just 'cutting a coil' without bending the end in will likely result in a bent spring that touches the frame opening &/or shock.

 

Cut one ring off and see how that looks. If no good, you'll need different springs...

I've cut springs many times and never had any issues except the car rode too harsh.. Try BMR 2" lowering springs..

 

If you start with the spring out of the car sitting on the ground, measure up from the floor 1/2 the distance you want to lower the car and cut there. It works out pretty close.

 

Jeff, Here's a snapshot of 1964-67 Moog coil spring data. The Installed height is supposed to be the same as GM design data but as we all know, it's not always that way as you have found.

 

That's exactly what I bought, the 6204s. Went back and looked through my Amazon orders. Not sure why these things make the front stick up so far. I even have 2" drop spindles on the car and it looks ridiculously high still. After looking through some forums, I think I can just cut these springs since they don't have flat spots on them. Thanks!

 

My original "66" front coils had a small dab of light colored paint on the end of the upper coil,the AIM gives the proper location of the end of the spring with the two small holes in the frame,I duplicated the paint mark on my replacement coils. You say it took you seven hrs. to replace the spring,what type of compressor are you using? I got one from Autozones loan a tool program and it worked great,installed the hooks a couple of coils from the top and bottom,compressed the spring(it will have a slight curve when comprerssed) orient the curve so it faces outboard and the end of the upper coil is in the correct spot. after the spring is in place put a floor jack under the outboard end of the lower control arm and raise it,the spring cmpressor can then be fished out of the spring,unscrew the rod and remove it then the hooks can be removed through the coils. I put a rachet strap under the bottom of the floor jack and over the frame to keep the whole car from raising up when lifting the lower control arm to get the ball joint nuts started.Good Luck.

 

Don, Here is a pic of the compressors I'm using. There isn't enough room on the back side (engine side) of the spring to get these in there. As it is, I had to cut 1.5" off the threaded rod just to get them up in the spring pocket.

 

You can change springs quite easily on these cars without using a spring compressor. Remember that when you first install the springs, it will take the a while to settle in. When they do settle after some driving, the front end will sit lower. The video is for a 1969 model, but it will be the same for a 1966. I usually use my foot to push the spring back into the pocket - I think I have only had to use a hammer one time.


The one thing he failed to do is make sure that the spring was clocked correctly on the lower control arm. And as he states at the end of the video, he should have had the jack in a better spot. I have always put it under the spring pocket. Once you get the lower control arm jacked up, you can insert the upper ball joint and start the nut onto the threads - that would be the proper way to support the spring tension. I don't think that using the shock is a good idea.

 

You can change springs quite easily on these cars without using a spring compressor. Remember that when you first install the springs, it will take the a while to settle in. When they do settle after some driving, the front end will sit lower. The video is for a 1969 model, but it will be the same for a 1966. I usually use my foot to push the spring back into the pocket - I think I have only had to use a hammer one time.


The one thing he failed to do is make sure that the spring was clocked correctly on the lower control arm. And as he states at the end of the video, he should have had the jack in a better spot. I have always put it under the spring pocket. Once you get the lower control arm jacked up, you can insert the upper ball joint and start the nut onto the threads - that would be the proper way to support the spring tension. I don't think that using the shock is a good idea.


installing coil spring without spring compressor 69 chevelle - YouTube

Thanks for the tip and video, Brian. With this being the first time I've attempted to replace springs I was a bit nervous about the spring flying out of there and damaging me or the 66 so I opted for the spring compressors. I think after I cut the spring, It'll be a little easier.

 

The spring pocket in the arm always takes an open coil and the natural position is apparent. You want the end of the spring right near the rise in the lower bucket.

Always make sure your lower arms (and uppers for that matter) aren't tightened too tight or the bind can hold the front of the car up. With no shock, the car should bounce like a pogo stick.

ramey

 

During the process I found out the shocks were trash too. I ended up leaving the shocks out until the new ones come in. The front bounces like a pogo stick for sure.

 

The compressor from AutoZone is the internal type.

 

I think I'm going to just go borrow the internal type. I looked online at just buying one. The cheap ones seem like a good way to end up in the ER.

 

The "66" service manual has a different method for Chevelle front spring replacement. Dimensions for a special tool are shown,and how it's used for the procedure. Wonder if anyone at the dealership's did it this way? Probably not,we always found ways to improvise to save time or if a special tool wasn't available.

 

Don, Where did you get your service manual. The one I bought was a chassis service manual. Same thing?

 

I'm running into the same problem as you have.

I've got Moog 6200 on the front of my 64 and it looks like a gasser. The spring is so tall it's ridiculous. Being so tall makes compressing it extremely scary. My spring compressor is so tight I have to angle it so the threaded rod comes through the hole in the frame for the shock rod.

The a-arms are almost in full droop angle with full weight on the front end, a-arm bushings loose. I can't get the car aligned with it sitting like that.

I've seen the 1:2 ratio for cutting coil springs, 1" of coil for every 2 inches of suspension drop. Will be trying it soon, tired of my front tires wearing out before my rear tires.

 

I just don't understand how someone can buy the CORRECT part for the car and have it lift the front that far. Shouldn't have to go back and cut the springs over and over until it's to the height you want. Figuring my stock springs had sagged over the years, I was only looking to gain an inch of height in the front, not 3. And yea, mine is the same, there's no way I can get it aligned with it sitting that high. :clonk:

 

More expensive but better quality

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/...m_term=0_887c724dfe-0382d572b2-126783041&goal=0_887c724dfe-0382d572b2-126783041

Any they now have a lower gas shock in addition to the hydraulic socks for a better ride.

 

Jim, Eaton Detroit Springs are the best. I have used there springs starting back in the 80's.

 

I have original "66" and "67" Chassis service manuals and Unit repair manuals(overhaul). I got them from a guy I worked with at a Chevy dealer back in the 70's. He had a garage full of them,unused,he told me that if you were a Certified Chevrolet Technician back in the 50's and 60's when the dealership got the new model year manuals each Tech got a set,he took his home.He passed away years ago,I asked his son about the manual's,he sold the whole lot to someone.Probably more info than you needed,but I thought I'd share the story.

 

I have a 66 Chevelle Malibu convertible that I have restored and put all new front and rear springs in it. I put front coil springs for a SBC w/o AC. I had the same problem in that the front end was too high. I was told by several people to drive it for awhile and let it settle. I drove it for about 3 months and sure enough it settled down very good. The front is about 1 inch higher that it was but it looks great. Hope this helps you out.

 

So here's some really technical math for you guys lol...cut 3/4 coil off of a SBC w/no A/C spring = 1-1/4" drop. It's still a little (3/4") high for my taste but, collector doesn't drag, wheels don't rub so I'm happy. Hoping for a little settling...maybe 3/4" or so. The second spring was a lot easier than the first as I learned what not to do on the first. Went ahead and replaced the shocks and stabilizer bar bushings while I was in there. Shocks were garbage, bushings were hard and had some splits. Got to drive her for a little bit yesterday. Nothing like driving a Chevelle with the windows down on a spring day. Thank you guys for all of your help.

 

if you add spacers at the rear or change the rear spring, that will drop the nose.

 

I've got coil-overs on the back. I plan on raising the back up a little.

 

I had the same problem with my 64 el camino. Went through 3 sets of springs which all made the front end set to high. I finally bought a set of front springs from Eaton Detroit Spring and they were right on. They are a little more expensive than Moog but you only have to buy them once

 

Good recommendation. I keep having to remind myself I also have 2" drop spindles on the car too. I can't imagine the front being 2" higher than it is. Makes me think Moog is not selling the right springs for a SBC w/no A/C. So many people on here have posted the Moog springs make the front of the car higher than they expect. Something isn't right with Moog, IMO. Glad you finally found a set that worked for you. I was originally going to just cut 1/2 a coil off but didn't want to have to take the springs out yet again so I went with 3/4 and it ended up good enough. :thumbsup:

 

Here's a pic of the whole car.

 

I just put the Moroso drag springs in my 68. I bought the OTC internal spring compressor. I've done springs with just the floor jback and jackstand route before but this tool makes it stupid easy.

OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor

While not cheap it was worth every cent. I hear there are Chinese knock offs but I'm not trusting my safety to a cheap casting !

Good luck

Thanks Joe