Team Chevelle banner

6.2L & 6L80E Project

61K views 25 replies 16 participants last post by  rubenjuarezjr  
#1 ·
Hey guys, i've got a big question. I've recently acquired a L92 6.2L LS engine backed with a 6L80E trans (6 speed automatic) & have been researching a little about putting into my 67 chevelle. Now, as far as I can tell, no one has yet to accomplish this task, the buys over at www.v8tvshow.com started in a 66 GTO, but didn't have the time to do it, so they exchanged it for a 4L65E. Now, according to my research, the trans is quite larger, and will need to have the tunnel cut out & re-made. No problem there, but the problem I do have (mainly because I don't have any knowledge on the subject) is the drive line angle. To get the trans to fit, I believe the motor & trans assembly needs to be raised up about 4" to get the trans pan to rest flush with the frame rails. This is where my knowledge stops. What sort of issues will I run into with the drive line angle, drive shaft, rear end assembly. I have yet to actually put the engine & trans down into my frame (body is off), I want to go into this swap as prepared as possible. Feel free to treat me as an infant on the subject because I am. Any help is super appreciated!!!
 
#2 ·
If you are willing to cut out enough of your tunnel you will not have a problem with drive shaft angles. You may have to got with adjustable rear upper control arms to bet the rear differential angle right but you run into the same thing with the 4l80 and t56 swaps.
The biggest thing people are having problems with the 6 speed autos is programing them for different applications.
 
#3 ·
If you really want to get prepared for the swap, go to ls1tech.com and go to the "conversions and hybrids" forum. There are sticky's just for A-Body conversion that should get you prepared for just about anything.

I am in the process of putting an LQ4 [6 litre] and 4L80E into my '67 now. I don't know the difference between the 6L80 and the 4L80, but I didn't have to raise the engine 4" at all. My motor mounts are a fraction of an inch taller. The tunnel will be custom back to the driveline however.

Rob
 
#4 ·
I'm going to go out on a limb here and ask 'why a 6 speed'? A bone stock 4L80e can handle 200+ more foot pounds of torque than that 6L80e. The 6L is listed as being shorter than the 4L, but that depends on what tail shaft and year/version of the transmission you end up with. so the overall length isn't a big deal. I guess you want to raise it all up because the transmission is so naturally low (or tall)?

Your driveline angle will not be as big a deal as you are making it out to be. With some adjustable upper rear control arms you'll greatly reduce and would be vibration under full accell and/or full decelration as the rear end wants to "roll" forward and back while it is traveling up and down. I also don't get

My problem with my 4l80e swap is the seriosuly deep pan that is required when running a trans brake. That transmission pan will be the lowest part on my car and will limit how low my riding suspension height can be. I am considering running a "skid plate" of some sort in front of it.

For dimension comparison:

http://www.southernperformancesystems.com/dim_4L80E.html

http://www.southernperformancesystems.com/dim_6L80E.html
 
#5 ·
Robbie, I've actually been following your thread over there quite closely (very nice 66 by the way), and am a member over there too, so i've been reading up as much as I can.

Mike, as for the 6 speed, it is what came along with the L92 that I got as a unit out of an 07 cadillac escalade 4x4, (all I need to do is change the tail housing to convert it to a rear wheel drive which is nice) I actually wasn't aware of the torque difference for the trans's, but i'm not going to be beating on the car every weekend at the strip with slicks. It's mainly going to be a cruiser that may see the strip once a year. As for why, I just thought it would be really neat to put the latest and greatest in there from GM. I won't lie, the whole VVT setup as well as the double overdrive seduced me.

I was hoping I was over thinking the whole driveline issue, but I wanted other opinions too. As for programming, i'm on a serious budget (My wife & I make 35K/yr with 3 boys under 5), so I'm looking at the 3-5 year plan to actually fire it up and drive it for the first time, so I think programming will be figured out by then. I've actually already got the currietrac adjustable upper control arms, so I guess i'm safe.

I've been looking at the autokraft pan and mounts just because there has been such rave reviews about having no issues with the pan clearing the links, has anyone used their setup with the mounts & pan? If so, what did you do for headers (edelbrock, dougs, summit, etc)? Also, who is the best deal out there now for wiring harness moding & computer re-programming for the engine?
Matt
 
#9 ·
9
I've been looking at the autokraft pan and mounts just because there has been such rave reviews about having no issues with the pan clearing the links, has anyone used their setup with the mounts & pan? If so, what did you do for headers (edelbrock, dougs, summit, etc)? Also, who is the best deal out there now for wiring harness moding & computer re-programming for the engine?
Matt
I would think with raising your engine up 4" you wouldn't have a problem with the deep pans. But it would eliminate the use of most long tube headers. You could use the exhaust manifolds off a corvette possibly.

I would go with speartech for the programing more money but worth it. He has done the 6L already.
 
#11 ·
I was able to get everything from my local dealership too, I just went in there and asked for the output shaft, tail housing seal & tail housing for a 2008 2wd cadillac escalade with a 6L80E and whala, parts popped up. As for the headers and mounts, I ended up going with edelbrock headers and mounts, everything went in with no issues, steering will be tight, but I think with some joints, I can get it cleared without much problem.
 
#16 ·
Great thread. I have a 4X4 6L80E (C1) transmission from 2007 Escalade, which I need to convert to 2-wheel drive. I tried to test fit the tail shaft. The inner ridge of the tail shaft damaged the seal while I was tightening the bolts (please see the enclosed pictures). It did not seem like a natural fit. Did anybody else run into similar fitment issues?

More pictures of the transmission:
http://www.c3ls3.com/all-galleries/6l80e-transmission/
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Looks like you need to change your rear seal out from a 4wd seal to a 2wd seal and snap ring cuz they are not interchangeable. So basically what I have come up with for this conversion is that you need to order a new tail shaft, new tail housing, new tail housing gasket, new rear seal and snap ring and a new grand mount to go with the new tail housing. Once I get a list of part numbers for this conversion, I will post.
As for my progress, my motor and trans are in with edelbrock headers and motor mounts, jeep grand Cherokee steering box with ls power steering pump, Ford 302 pulley on the pump to clear the box, the ls pump lines bolt right up to the jeep box, so no adapters needed there. The next thing I'm getting ready to address is the fuel system, I have a spectre tank with modifications so far, waiting on my 3/8 fuel line and adapters to get up to the stock ls fuel rails. Hope this helps anyone out there, been some head scratching so far, but just trying to help anyone else.
 
#18 ·
OK guys and gals, here is what I have come up with for a conversion of a 6L80E from 4wd to 2wd. It's easier to find and cheaper to buy the 4wd transmissions and convert them than buying a used 2wd one, besides that, the 4wd will more likely be less abused than the 2wd since the camaro's aren't exactly going to be babied right?!? LOL Anyway, here we go.
These are listed as GM part numbers, then description, then price per my dealership, the price will vary dealership to dealership and you may even find it cheaper other places online, just don't forget to factor in shipping.
24238076 - Turbine shaft seal - $16.62
24224675 - Tailshaft extension gasket - $4.65
24224676 - Tailshaft extension housing - $113.12
24226707 - Rear bearing retainer - $19.75
24233898 - Rear bearing retainer seal - $18.60 - these 2 come together as one piece even though you have to order them separately.
11515768 - Bolts for tail housing x 6 - $0.85 each
24239394 - Rear 2wd output shaft - $182.98 - To install this piece, the trans has to be completely disassembled and put back together since it's the first piece in and last piece out, may as well put new clutches in while you have it apart
24224668 - Rear seal bearing - $10.25 - this is optional, if it's still good when you rebuild the trans, then it is not needed
15813693 - 2wd transmission mount - $22.36
11517827 - Transmission mount bolts x 2 - $4.46 each
The computer inside this trans will also need to be reprogrammed, I had mine done by speartech. They walked me through removal and reinstall of it with no issues. I haven't driven it yet, but have no doubt in their work. They also modified my wiring harness and supplied me with an electronic drive by wire gas pedal too in the package. Hope this helps anyone doing this conversion.
 
#19 ·
What do you have planned on the extra depth of this transmission. From all the measurements I looked at when considering doing this myself the top part of the trans is not significantly larger but the depth below the center line is significantly increased.

Do you plan on moving the engine and trans up higher and building a trans tunnel from scratch. That seems the best way to do it but is giong to be decent amount of work to make a new trans tunnel that is 5 inches higher or so at all points. I also considered a skid plate but that seems like a very ghetto mod so I ended up sticking with a 4l80
 
#20 ·
Well, I actually modified my original cross member by adding some material to it to strengthen it, then I jabbed up a plate with an elongated hole in it, then once I had the engine and trans down 3*, I welded the plate on. Once I had everything bolted up, the lower clearance is no issue I don't think, it doesn't hang any lower than a turnover 400. As for upper clearance, I can't comment on that yet, I have yet to drop my body back on the frame. I am assuming that I will have to do some beating or cutting and bending, but hey, that's all part of the fun of marrying technology separated by 40 years. Lol
 
#21 ·
Sounds like a sweet project you have going. Any recent pics? I installed a 6.0 and a 6 speed tremic in my 67 project I am currently building. I had to completely cut out the tunnel and build a new one. I will smooth it out and round out the edges when I get in the interior.
Lots of work, but we both know it will be worth it in the long run when we are cruizing down the highway getting 20MPG and running like stink.:beers:
 
#22 ·
If you have a 6l80 from a 2010 or newer Camaro can you just remove the bolt from the triangle drive coupler and use a slip type yoke from the 4l80 or does the tranny have to be disassembled and change the tailshaft?

Thank you for the info I'm getting ready for this step myself.
 
#24 ·
I didn't want to disassemble a low mileage tranny to change the output shaft I found another 6l80 from a 2013 escalade 2wd on eBay with 1,000 miles on it. I am now using this tranny and hope to sell the 6l80 with the drive coupler on it being only 9k on it hated to disassemble.
 
#25 ·
Gents,
I too wanted to put a 6L80 with paddle shifters behind the stout old school 406 SBC in my 69 Chevelle to flat out smoke the late model checkbook shit people buy at a dealer. Went so far as to purchase a 6L80 out of a 2015 Camaro. Biggest issue is the trans pan would have about 2.75 inches of ground clearance. Yes I could raise the engine a bunch and then my headers hit the floor. Who wants an engine sitting up that much higher? Don't mind fabing a tunnel, the $800 trans controller/shifter, but it just seems like an impractical fit into a 68-72 A body. I sold the trans! Please advise if you had success and if I am just dumb. Thx