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Heat Issues - New to me 70 Chevelle

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#181 ·
Not2Fast said:
Bonkerman said:
I can't believe you have 12 pages on this thread to put the fan on.
Click to expand...
And half of it has to do with a fuel line that someone brought up and used as an excuse to pic-whore their engine bay.
Image


ghoticov said:
Tom said he just had the rad flushed and fixed about 2-3 years ago so it doesn't seem like that could be it but I guess it's possible.
Click to expand...
No offense to the guy, but he did sell you a car with a cooling issue, so should you really trust what he told you? I wouldn't.

Did you seal the gaps between the shroud and rad? Do it! Won't help on highway, but will at slow speeds, stop lights, and while in park with engine one.

BEFORE you worry about burping, get that new t-stat and water neck gasket, drill one or two 1/16" holes in the the t-stat, install it, drain your radiator and refill with nothing but distilled water, THEN burp it.
Click to expand...
Well, being the guy that sold him the car, I can say that we never had the cooling issues that Marc is having. For one thing, I had just installed the temperature gauge in the car right before we negotiated the deal. Before that, we just used the idiot light in the dash and the light had only come on in a couple occasions in really slow crawling traffic, and both days were over 90 degrees. I put the heater on while stuck in traffic, and the light ended up going off. (Yes we were roasting, but once we starting moving again all was fine). Secondly, that was before I put the aluminum intake on, and the old thermosat was a 180. When I changed the cast iron intake and edelbrock carb over to the edelbrock performer and holley carb, I put a 160 thermostat in it. At the same time, I pulled the LEAKING radiator out of the car and took it to a radiator shop that repaired it. They told me they flushed it and pressure tested it.
After getting it all back together, we never had an issue with the light coming on again. Did I have any idea what temp it was running at? No, that is why I was putting a temperare gauge in it before selling the car.
I don't like basically being called a liar. I told Marc everything I knew about the car before selling it to him. My wife rarely drove the car when it was hot out, because it doesn't have AC and she didn't like being hot. In the 16 years we owned the car, we barely put 10k miles on it. 100 degrees out there is alot hotter than it is here 90% of the time
 
Discussion starter · #182 ·
Not2Fast said:
No offense to the guy, but he did sell you a car with a cooling issue, so should you really trust what he told you? I wouldn't.

Did you seal the gaps between the shroud and rad? Do it! Won't help on highway, but will at slow speeds, stop lights, and while in park with engine one.

BEFORE you worry about burping, get that new t-stat and water neck gasket, drill one or two 1/16" holes in the the t-stat, install it, drain your radiator and refill with nothing but distilled water, THEN burp it.
Click to expand...
Well, to his defense he never had cooling issues like I am having. He lives in a more mild climate as well. I believe he also never had the water temp gauge installed until just before he shipped the car to me (and he graciously installed it for me before shipping the car). He did say that the idiot light came on a time or two but it seems the issue is worse in my 100 degree heat.

I am going to try and install the t-stat and new water neck gasket tonight. I was only going to drain maybe a gallon of the radiator fluid (to get it below the water neck line so it doesn't make a mess) and then refill it with distilled water. I am not sure I want to drain the whole thing and fill with just distilled water because I thought I read that can be bad for these radiators?
 
Discussion starter · #183 ·
tireburner396 said:
Well, being the guy that sold him the car, I can say that we never had the cooling issues that Marc is having. For one thing, I had just installed the temperature gauge in the car right before we negotiated the deal. Before that, we just used the idiot light in the dash and the light had only come on in a couple occasions in really slow crawling traffic, and both days were over 90 degrees. I put the heater on while stuck in traffic, and the light ended up going off. (Yes we were roasting, but once we starting moving again all was fine). Secondly, that was before I put the aluminum intake on, and the old thermosat was a 180. When I changed the cast iron intake and edelbrock carb over to the edelbrock performer and holley carb, I put a 160 thermostat in it. At the same time, I pulled the LEAKING radiator out of the car and took it to a radiator shop that repaired it. They told me they flushed it and pressure tested it.
After getting it all back together, we never had an issue with the light coming on again. Did I have any idea what temp it was running at? No, that is why I was putting a temperare gauge in it before selling the car.
I don't like basically being called a liar. I told Marc everything I knew about the car before selling it to him. My wife rarely drove the car when it was hot out, because it doesn't have AC and she didn't like being hot. In the 16 years we owned the car, we barely put 10k miles on it. 100 degrees out there is alot hotter than it is here 90% of the time
Click to expand...
Glad you responded. I didn't see this before I responded to him.

If I didn't trust you, I would have never bought the car. You have been straight, upfront and a HUGE help since I bought the car and the fact that we still talk and text a month after buying it says a lot. You are definitely no liar!

I was going to defend you but you did a good job of that in the post above. :)

Neither one of us know what cam, piston or what the bore is on the car. My boss has a 396 that is bored 60 over and it has always ran hot (in the temperature around here) so it does make me wonder what the bore is.

I am going to change the t-stat (just to make sure its working), fill with more distilled water to get the ratio closer to 70/30 (water/rad fluid) and seal the gaps as much as possible.

If that doesn't lower temps, I will pull the rad and take it to have it checked and fixed if needed. After that, it would probably be tear into the engine and see what it has but if its a huge bore, it might not matter since I may struggle with getting temps down.
 
#185 ·
. " After that, it would probably be tear into the engine and see what it has but if its a huge bore, it might not matter since I may struggle with getting temps down." I would recommend you not doing that yourself without some experienced "on-site" physical help.
 
Discussion starter · #187 ·
Brownd3max said:
. " After that, it would probably be tear into the engine and see what it has but if its a huge bore, it might not matter since I may struggle with getting temps down." I would recommend you not doing that yourself without some experienced "on-site" physical help.
Click to expand...
No worries there. I would never tear into a motor without someone I trust helping me. But I would probably end up just taking it to a shop I trust (by recommendation) at that point.
 
Discussion starter · #188 ·
Does anyone know what this means?

"* Run vac adv to full intake vacuum all the time for more timing at idle which will also help it run cooler in traffic."

I saw it in a post by SWHEATON but not sure what it means.

When we checked my timing on Saturday, I am at 10 degrees and about 650rpm idle and was about 32 at 3000 RPMS. I bought a timing light and they showed me how to check and change it so I can change that if needed.

We plugged the vacuum line when checking the timing but the weird thing was that the timing didn't change when we hooked back up the vacuum line. Is that normal?

And again, can someone explain in detail what SWHEATON is referring to above?
 
#190 ·
OK, when I first joined this Great Group a mere 6 months ago, I spent several weeks searching & searching, and perusing all the great past articles/ threads/ and posts in all the catagories of interest to me. This, in itself, answered probably 75-80% of every question I initially had, learned a ton! THEN, I could start a thread if needed with some prior base knowledge, and skip the "AutoShop101" stuff. It really saves time!
 
Discussion starter · #191 ·
Steve R said:
It's cheap and easy, I'd change it. You are in the middle of trouble shooting, don't assume anything is right until you verify it. It's $10 and takes 30 seconds, how much time and effort would be involved if you were to go into the engine as you suggest above?

Steve R
Click to expand...
Sorry, I guess I'm not following you. Tom said he put that new cap on there (I am almost 100% sure he said that).

Do radiator caps go bad or something? Sorry for the ignorance, I am just not sure what you are asking or implying.
 
Discussion starter · #192 ·
Brownd3max said:
OK, when I first joined this Great Group a mere 6 months ago, I spent several weeks searching & searching, and perusing all the great past articles/ threads/ and posts in all the catagories of interest to me. This, in itself, answered probably 75-80% of every question I initially had, learned a ton! THEN, I could start a thread if needed with some prior base knowledge, and skip the "AutoShop101" stuff. It really saves time!
Click to expand...
I've been on this site for 2 months now and been in constant research... just ask my wife. lol She see's me reading the forum for hours every day.

I think part of the problem of this forum is that it DOESN'T give "AutoShop101" kind of advice. With most of it, you have to have some sort of knowledge to get started with the advice that is given.

And example is, I had no idea where the water pump or fuel pump is (along with many other things) so I didn't have that base knowledge to even know where to start.

Another example is what STEVE R is talking about above with regards to the rad cap. I am pretty sure that Tom replaced it, it certainly looks new but he then said it's $10 and 30 seconds to change it. Well, I can change a rad cap in about 5 seconds so I am not exactly sure what he means or where he is going with it.
 
#193 · (Edited)
OP
see my "STICKY" at the Top of the "Cooling/Heating" Forum
9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in Hi-Perf Auto

I drain my car's Rad at lest twice a year
Spring time I take out the Winter -40* Coolant, about 70% Antifreeze / 30% Tap Water
and replace with the Summer -10* Coolant, about 30% Antifreeze / 70% Tap Water

Then reverse the process in the Fall since the car sits in the Garage in 40* below temps for the Winter

I have Storage Containers, empty Antifreeze Containers marked Summer -10* / Winter -40* with the year indicated on them

I use this S/W Coolant for about 3 years then throw it out and go buy new Antifreeze and start the cycle over again

To BURP your car
park it so the Frontend is higher than the Backend

drain the Rad completely until it is dribbling out the Peacock
then close off the Peacock

put a large Rag/Towel under/around the Thermostat Housing and take it off
take out the old Thermostat and replace with ....
OR
since you live in hot/warm weather all year round I would not even bother to have a restrictive Thermostat at all
see my "STICKY" at the Top of the "Cooling/Heating" Forum
9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in Hi-Perf Auto
within under the Heading "Improvement Rrule # 1 "

I do not run one in my Engine from June 1 to Sept 30

Then button everything back up .

Assuming you have a Xcross Flow Rad fill it up with the mix of Antifreeze/Water you want to have in it
to come only up to 2" to 3" below the Rad Cap Hole

Start your Engine and watch the Flow of Coolant into the Rad by looking into the open Rad Cap Hole
this allows any unneeded Air to escape and for you to see that the Thermostat is opening etc....

let the car run until it gets to 180* if NO/160* Thermostat
or until 195* if there is a 180* Thermostat
and then shut off

Let the car cool down with the Rad Cap still off
then start the Engine and Repeat .....

Any Air should be Burped out of the system doing this if the Frontend of the car is higher than the Backend of the car .
 
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#194 ·
ghoticov said:
Sorry, I guess I'm not following you. Tom said he put that new cap on there (I am almost 100% sure he said that).

Do radiator caps go bad or something? Sorry for the ignorance, I am just not sure what you are asking or implying.
Click to expand...
They can go bad. It's not likely, but it's worth changing just because it's so much cheaper and easier than many of the other options you are considering. It's worth ruling out that it is part of the problem.

Steve R
 
Discussion starter · #195 ·
Kirk's67SS said:
OP
see my "STICKY" at the Top of the "Cooling/Heating" Forum
9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in Hi-Perf Auto

I drain my car's Rad at lest twice a year
Spring time I take out the Winter -40* Coolant, about 70% Antifreeze / 30% Tap Water
and replace with the Summer -10* Coolant, about 30% Antifreeze / 70% Tap Water

Then reverse the process in the Fall since the car sits in the Garage in 40* below temps for the Winter

I have Storage Containers, empty Antifreeze Containers marked Summer -10* / Winter -40* with the year indicated on them

I use this S/W Coolant for about 3 years then throw it out and go buy new Antifreeze and start the cycle over again

To BURP your car
park it so the Frontend is higher than the Backend

drain the Rad completely until it is dribbling out the Peacock
then close off the Peacock

put a large Rag/Towel under/around the Thermostat Housing and take it off
take out the old Thermostat and replace with ....
OR
since you live in hot/warm weather all year round I would not even bother to have a restrictive Thermostat at all
see my "STICKY" at the Top of the "Cooling/Heating" Forum
9 Rules for Improving Engine Cooling System Capability in Hi-Perf Auto
within under the Heading "Improvement Rrule # 1 "

I do not run one in my Engine from June 1 to Sept 30

Then button everything back up .

Assuming you have a Xcross Flow Rad fill it up with the mix of Antifreeze/Water you want to have in it
to come only up to 2" to 3" below the Rad Cap Hole

Start your Engine and watch the Flow of Coolant into the Rad by looking into the open Rad Cap Hole
this allows any unneeded Air to escape and for you to see that the Thermostat is opening etc....

let the car run until it gets to 180* if NO/160* Thermostat
or until 195* if there is a 180* Thermostat
and then shut off

Let the car cool down with the Rad Cap still off
then start the Engine and Repeat .....

Any Air should be Burped out of the system doing this if the Frontend of the car is higher than the Backend of the car .
Click to expand...
Great info! I have read that sticky before. And thanks so much for the info on how to "burp" your car. I assume you only really need to do that is if you completely drain and flush the radiator and engine, right? If I am just draining less than a gallon and refilling it with distilled water, I shouldn't have to burp it?
 
Discussion starter · #196 ·
Steve R said:
They can go bad. It's not likely, but it's worth changing just because it's so much cheaper and easier than many of the other options you are considering. It's worth ruling out that it is part of the problem.

Steve R
Click to expand...
Gotcha! Now it make sense. Let me see how it does with this new autozone t-stat and then I will change the cap next.
 
Discussion starter · #197 ·
Right now, I am running Mechanical Vac... should I be running Ported Vacuum?

Right now, when the timing was set (10 degrees and about 660 rpm idle speed and about 32 degrees at 3000 rpms), when we plugged back up the vacuum hose, it didn't change the timing at all.

Remember, I am still trying to understand the relation to vacuum advance, timing, carb and all of this.

But right now, I do know I am in the mechanicl vaccum advance. Is there any reason I should be in the ported advance instead?

EDIT: I had it backwards.. I am in the lower plug (mechanical), not the upper one which is ported.
 
#198 ·
A quick suggestion...

If it comes to this,,,before tearing down your engine, try an aluminum radiator. My recommendation is a Dewitt's brand and you can get in black so it looks stock.

Go with the direct fit 1 1/4" tubes.

I have a 60 over 454 with your fan, stock clutch, edelbrock aluminum water pump, Sweaton's autozone stat with 1 hole drilled plus the mentioned Dewitt's radiator which is expensive. I live in Southern California near riverside where it can be hot like Clovis. I have a mechanical temp guage and my temps are usually 175-180. The hottest I've seen is 185 after hot lapping it (back to back passes) at the drag strip.

I have an automatic trans with a 2800 stall and only use the radiator to cool it (no external trans cooler).

At one point I noticed a 10 degree spike in temp which turned out to be a leaky heater core which I'm guessing wouldn't allow the system to pressurize. After replacing that she went right back to 175.

I believe the high dollar aluminum radiators are probably overkill, but when it comes to cooling I'm just fine with that.

 
#199 ·
ghoticov said:
tireburner396 said:
Well, being the guy that sold him the car, I can say that we never had the cooling issues that Marc is having. For one thing, I had just installed the temperature gauge in the car right before we negotiated the deal. Before that, we just used the idiot light in the dash and the light had only come on in a couple occasions in really slow crawling traffic, and both days were over 90 degrees. I put the heater on while stuck in traffic, and the light ended up going off. (Yes we were roasting, but once we starting moving again all was fine). Secondly, that was before I put the aluminum intake on, and the old thermosat was a 180. When I changed the cast iron intake and edelbrock carb over to the edelbrock performer and holley carb, I put a 160 thermostat in it. At the same time, I pulled the LEAKING radiator out of the car and took it to a radiator shop that repaired it. They told me they flushed it and pressure tested it.
After getting it all back together, we never had an issue with the light coming on again. Did I have any idea what temp it was running at? No, that is why I was putting a temperare gauge in it before selling the car.
I don't like basically being called a liar. I told Marc everything I knew about the car before selling it to him. My wife rarely drove the car when it was hot out, because it doesn't have AC and she didn't like being hot. In the 16 years we owned the car, we barely put 10k miles on it. 100 degrees out there is alot hotter than it is here 90% of the time
Click to expand...
Glad you responded. I didn't see this before I responded to him.

If I didn't trust you, I would have never bought the car. You have been straight, upfront and a HUGE help since I bought the car and the fact that we still talk and text a month after buying it says a lot. You are definitely no liar!

I was going to defend you but you did a good job of that in the post above.
Image


Neither one of us know what cam, piston or what the bore is on the car. My boss has a 396 that is bored 60 over and it has always ran hot (in the temperature around here) so it does make me wonder what the bore is.

I am going to change the t-stat (just to make sure its working), fill with more distilled water to get the ratio closer to 70/30 (water/rad fluid) and seal the gaps as much as possible.

If that doesn't lower temps, I will pull the rad and take it to have it checked and fixed if needed. After that, it would probably be tear into the engine and see what it has but if its a huge bore, it might not matter since I may struggle with getting temps down.
Click to expand...
Thanks Marc.
 
#200 ·
Steve R said:
I haven't read the thread, but have you go changed the radiator cap yet?

Steve R
Click to expand...
Steve, I'm not sure why he would have to change the cap? The car is not overheating, he is not losing any coolant our the overflow tube. Actually, when I had the radiator fixed, the guy told me to run a 7lb cap. Everywhere I looked I couldn't find one, so I went with this 15 lb cap.
 
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