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If engineered properly the fill rate of the sump has to be greater than the pumps ability to empty it. Not an issue until the level drops below the top of the sump.
 
I have a Rick's Tanks resto mod 20 gal tank that I am going to use, it has an Al can the pump sets in and has a 6 inch hand hole. They recommended using blocks of fuel cell foam to prevent sloshing (replace it every two years). It came with a tube type level xmitter. Hope it'll be installed soon, before the engine is ready.
 
The majority of in-tank pumps are designed that way...

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Most will tell you that the return needs to be directed away from the pump wherever possible to avoid aeration of the fuel...sometimes it is just more important to have some type of fuel available.
 
Where are you putting the surge tank? Only place i could come up with was above the rear end inside the trunk.

Junk in my trunk.


Made up a shelve/bracket for pump assembly to mount to.


Feed & Return Line from Throttle Body coming out of chassis rail, both are sheathed to prevent wear, feed connect to bulkhead.


Return line continues along frame member to bulkhead, surge tank feed & return lines connect to bulkheads, ensured there was a strong earth for pumps & relays.


4G wire from Battery to feed pumps, intank pump wires, fuel tank vent.
 
Flow Test Results
Free Flow - Before TB
12.1v @ 0psi = 540lph
13.3v @ 0psi = 588lph
Regulated - After TB
12.1v @ 64psi = 335lph
13.3v @ 70psi = 366lph
 
I'm in the market for an EFI tank for my 67 Chevelle. I've looked into and contacted Rick's for one of their 255 log resyomod tanks. I'd hate to put the $800+ into a tank that may give me issues down the line. I plan on using. Holley Terminator stealth set up on a 500-550 hp 427. While it will be primarily a driver I do intend to run her at the strip. She also will sport a re-engineered suspension so she will handle better on curves. Fuel starving because of an improper tank design is something I'm looking to avoid. How does Rick's 255lph resomod tank rate? Is the "nose over" issue more prevalent on track vehicles that launch hard??
 
I'm in the market for an EFI tank for my 67 Chevelle. I've looked into and contacted Rick's for one of their 255 log resyomod tanks. I'd hate to put the $800+ into a tank that may give me issues down the line. I plan on using. Holley Terminator stealth set up on a 500-550 hp 427. While it will be primarily a driver I do intend to run her at the strip. She also will sport a re-engineered suspension so she will handle better on curves. Fuel starving because of an improper tank design is something I'm looking to avoid. How does Rick's 255lph resomod tank rate? Is the "nose over" issue more prevalent on track vehicles that launch hard??
After tons of reading while having my own "nose over" issues at the dragstrip and on the street, it appears the only people having that issue are using a 340lph Aeromotive Stealth pump, inside of a TanksInc "old style" EFI tank...

My Aeromotive pump was simply not up to the task. I don't know whether it was just a bad part out of the box, or a fake part sold through Amazon, but bottom line is, it flowed, literally 1/3rd of what my new Walbro 255lph pump now flows...

My car is back to running 100% street or street, with the "old" style EFI conversion tank from TanksInc, and a Walbro 255 pump.

This is on a car with the same engine, and HP as you mention.

Supposedly, if you specify that you want the "NEW, REVISED" efi tank, that is what you'll get...

As for the Rick's tank....the one person here that I know of, had to send his back for modification, if I remember right...

Hope this helps.
 
I bought a new tank and modified it to fit a Stealth 340 pump (long before the reasonably priced tanks were available). Never had a starvation issue with it but then again, I don't drag race.
 
I was considering using a 87 grandnational replacement tank on my G-body it drops right in my malibu and has a in tank pump already. At the moment though for now just gonna use my stock tank with an external pump that comes in the holley master install kit. I hope it works out well.
 
I was doing a bit of research on what EFI tank would work best for my upgrade to a Holley Terminator Stealth. I seem to have settled between a tank from Rick's or a Tanks Inc tank.

Both tanks are galvanizes and powder coated.
Both are approx. an inch thicker than stock and come with galvanized straps

The Tanks Inc tank you have to purchase the pump,
And sending unit separate. The cost for a tank with 255lph pump and sender is approx. $570.

The 255lph Rick's tank comes as a complete unit #46061. The price is $831. Delivered.

Rick's is very secretive about their sump in their tank. According to Hector fuel starvation is an issue on hard acceleration and cornering on all "resomod type Tanks". Rick's uses a cylinder type sender which looks super slick. The fittings are also 6-an for supply and return.

Tanks inc uses 1/4 inch supply and return and their sender is a float on a shaft type. They use a 4.3 liter fuel tray as a sump.

I had planned to runa 6-an supply line and use the existing 3/8 steel line as my return. For the life of me I can't see the logic of restricting a 3/8 return to 1/4 at the pump without creating issues. I'm also not thrilled about supplying my 6-an line from a 1/4 fitting. Hector at Rick's advised me to at least pick an Areomotive pump and install it into the Tank's Inc tank to enlarge the supply and return.

The rod and float sender that Tanksinc uses looks cheap, I'd much rather the cylinder style in the Rick's tank.

The price difference is huge between both! Is a better sender worth paying $250. more??

What about Rick's sumps? Issues..
 
The TanksInc. pump fittings are NOT 1/4"....

They are 1/4" NPT, national pipe thread, which is roughly 1/2" of measured diameter, which is more than likely what the other tank uses as well.

TanksInc also offers the cylinder style sending unit for, I "think", $30 more than the cheaper one....the cheaper one works fine and is actually beefier than what these cars had from the factory.

TanksInc also has a "revised" sump setup, that you have to specify you want....

There has been several issues with a TanksInc tank and a 340lph Aeromotive pump....

The Walbro 255lph pump, that was option from TanksInc is advertised to support 630hp. They also have a 400lph Walbro which is said to support 900...I believe it is.

I'm probably 100 hp under that 630hp claim, and have zero issue with the TanksInc/Walbro setup feeding my car's engine.

By the way, Hector is wrong....no matter what pump is in either tank, the feed and return fittings are whatever they are, which is 1/4"NPT with -6an to 1/4" NPT fittings/adapters screwed into them.
 
The TanksInc. pump fittings are NOT 1/4"....

They are 1/4" NPT, national pipe thread, which is roughly 1/2" of measured diameter, which is more than likely what the other tank uses as well.

TanksInc also offers the cylinder style sending unit for, I "think", $30 more than the cheaper one....the cheaper one works fine and is actually beefier than what these cars had from the factory.

TanksInc also has a "revised" sump setup, that you have to specify you want....

There has been several issues with a TanksInc tank and a 340lph Aeromotive pump....

The Walbro 255lph pump, that was option from TanksInc is advertised to support 630hp. They also have a 400lph Walbro which is said to support 900...I believe it is.

I'm probably 100 hp under that 630hp claim, and have zero issue with the TanksInc/Walbro setup feeding my car's engine.

By the way, Hector is wrong....no matter what pump is in either tank, the feed and return fittings are whatever they are, which is 1/4"NPT with -6an to 1/4" NPT fittings/adapters screwed into them.
Thank you for the info! When I asked why I should buy a Rick's tank over the Tanks Inc tank, Hector threw out the 1/4 fitting claim. I don't like that he was unable to shed any light on what his sump specs were. Almost made me think he didn't know or that it wasn't info that would influence me to choose his product.
 
Thank you for the info! When I asked why I should buy a Rick's tank over the Tanks Inc tank, Hector threw out the 1/4 fitting claim. I don't like that he was unable to shed any light on what his sump specs were. Almost made me think he didn't know or that it wasn't info that would influence me to choose his product.
Well, if a tank guy doesn't know the difference between 1/4" and 1/4"NPT, than that's not a place I'd trust with, or for, any sort of technical help....

It's easy for a regular guy to confuse the terminology, but a pro giving advise to a potential customer, that is that clueless, well...there's just no excuse, IMO...

He either doesnt know, and is giving bad information , or...
Is lying to try to get a sale...
 
I had a follow up email from Hector at Rick's Tanks. Pretty much called him out on how 1/4 npt is not 1/4 Id. He countered that 1/4 npt is not 3/8 Id or 6an, which is contrary to what I've read. He still could not or would not provide any details on the sump used in his tanks. He still could not justify why I should spend $200+ more on one of his tanks over a Tanks Inc tank.

Tanks Inc. provided me with part numbers to everything I'd need for my 67.

Bottom line, I know I'm not buying a tank from Rick's Tanks!!
 
I had a follow up email from Hector at Rick's Tanks. Pretty much called him out on how 1/4 npt is not 1/4 Id. He countered that 1/4 npt is not 3/8 Id or 6an, which is contrary to what I've read. He still could not or would not provide any details on the sump used in his tanks. He still could not justify why I should spend $200+ more on one of his tanks over a Tanks Inc tank.

Tanks Inc. provided me with part numbers to everything I'd need for my 67.

Bottom line, I know I'm not buying a tank from Rick's Tanks!!
Here are the ACTUAL & TRUE diameters of a 1/4"NPT fitting/bushing/plug/etc...
 

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