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Discussion starter · #81 ·
Bed is in primer....



 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
Hey guys, need to get a new driveshaft for the Elk to mate with the 4L80 and rear end. Any recommendations?
 
Hey guys, need to get a new driveshaft for the Elk to mate with the 4L80 and rear end. Any recommendations?
Do you know how long it needs to be? I have an almost new 3.5" diameter aluminum Denny's shaft with 1350 u-joints and a 4L80 yoke that's sitting on a shelf collecting dust.
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
Do you know how long it needs to be? I have an almost new 3.5" diameter aluminum Denny's shaft with 1350 u-joints and a 4L80 yoke that's sitting on a shelf collecting dust.
Not sure. Hoping to have the drive train in the frame in the next week or so. I need to swap spindles before I put the engine in. No sense having the extra weight to mess with.

I might be interested in the driveshaft you have.
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
Nuther question for you engine guys. For my build, the engine is 408 cubes. Cam, cubes, compression, and heads are expected to yield 530 ish hp and 500 torque.

Will stock LS3 injectors be sufficient to feed this or will I need larger ones?
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
Ken,

I'm planning an LS swap with my 66 too. What motor mounts did you end up using with the 302-2 pan? How much lower would you say the engine dropped compared to Eric's photos? Do you have any clearance issues with the tierods.

My car has a 9" rear which I think will help some with the driveline angle due to the pinion location.

I appreciate any advice you can offer.
Ken,
I had BRP hot rod mounts, but I just dumped those in the trash. they sit the motor up about 4 inches. I am switching to hooker standard LS swap mounts. The other downside to BRPs is that they are solid mounts, so there will be more vibration.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
Update

Bodywork on the body is nearing the end. Its back to all gray again. We plan to put the body on the frame at the end of November and give the bodyman the fenders, doors, and hood. Once those are done, I will bring the body back for final fitment, tweeking, adjustment, etc. Then it will be off the frame again, back on the rotisserie and off to paint.



















 
Discussion starter · #88 ·


 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
Swapping spindles from 2" drop spindles to stock height. Front end is too low without the engine in the frame. Adding that weight means more down angle in the front.



I don't know about you guys, but I have had a hard time getting spring compressors up inside the front coil springs. I could not use one when I installed the lower control arm & spring. I sued my own design compressor - all thread, big nuts, washers, and some wood blocks to get the spring and lower control arm installed. The other issue I had was the rubber bushing that fits in the bottom of the lower control arm spring pocket would move while installing. I couldn't get it to set flat during the install, so one end was sticking out. It might have not been an issue, but it bothered me that it wasn't right. I also needed to swap the frame mounts since I am getting rid of the BRP mounts in favor of Hooker mounts. The only way to get to the fasteners holding the mounts on was to remove the spring. So, I need to remove the spring to fix that, replace the spindles, and correct placement of the rubber bushing.

So, the issue came back to not being able to get a spring compressor inside the spring. I found a really robust and clever design spring compressor that works like a champ. A neat feature is the upper plate is locked to the threaded shaft so when you turn the shaft, you can climb the top plate to the top of the spring and then rotate the bottom independently to the bottom of the spring. This is the best spring compressor I have ever used. It also has a thrust bearing between the compression nut and the bottom plate. It is very easy to tighten.



Once this is done, I will get back to the engine. More details on that.
 
I recently put a Gen IV LS into my '66 Malibu using the BRP mounts. I used those mounts so I had room to mount an A/C compressor down low on the passenger side, the only place my supercharger would allow. The engine has the Holley 302-2 pan and I don't think the engine could be any lower or farther forward than the BRP mounts place it. Clearance with tie rods ends is good. But boy, fitting the T56 Magnum required some major transmission tunnel surgery...

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206045475433511&l=5ba29636c7
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206056353785463&l=0e8e858986
 
Discussion starter · #91 ·
I recently put a Gen IV LS into my '66 Malibu using the BRP mounts. I used those mounts so I had room to mount an A/C compressor down low on the passenger side, the only place my supercharger would allow. The engine has the Holley 302-2 pan and I don't think the engine could be any lower or farther forward than the BRP mounts place it. Clearance with tie rods ends is good. But boy, fitting the T56 Magnum required some major transmission tunnel surgery...

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206045475433511&l=5ba29636c7
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10206056353785463&l=0e8e858986
Noted. Still time for fitment.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Minor update.

Engine and trans are in the frame (Finally). Body goes back on the frame this weekend so the fenders, doors, hood, tailgate, radiator support, and valence panel can get some TLC.











 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
Quick question. Where do the group put the steam tubes? In the front or the back of the engine? I've seen them both places.
 
Eric, sorry, can't help with the steam lines. WHere were they before?

DO you have any pics of the Holley mounts or whatever you ended up with? Shame about the BRP mounts. They could have used a rubber mount, those stanchions or whatever they're called were obviously way to tall. Shorten them by the thickness of a rubber mount on the block and go. Wonder why they did that.
 
got any more pics of the engine as received? should be able to see.
 
Quick question. Where do the group put the steam tubes? In the front or the back of the engine? I've seen them both places.
All four points. The factory did it right. Don't block any of them. Not worth the chance.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
All four points. The factory did it right. Don't block any of them. Not worth the chance.
Thanks Brian, On my engine, I have the stock cross overs. Seems one side was blocked at the factory. Looking at the heads, the other two ports appear to be blocked already. I'd have to drill out the plug that is pressed in there.

These are LS3 heads by the way.
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Eric, sorry, can't help with the steam lines. WHere were they before?

DO you have any pics of the Holley mounts or whatever you ended up with? Shame about the BRP mounts. They could have used a rubber mount, those stanchions or whatever they're called were obviously way to tall. Shorten them by the thickness of a rubber mount on the block and go. Wonder why they did that.
Tom,
I decided to go back to the BRP mounts. The floor was checked and modified with the BRP mounts, not the Hooker units. I was concerned about the engine being more forward and then the trans cross member would have problems with fitment. If it moved back, then I would have trouble with the firewall and the trans cross member.

So, I thought long and hard and went back to what I originally had. My default will be to install some adjustable upper control arms if I need to change the driveshaft to pinion angle.

E
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Saturday the body was placed back onto the frame for a few months. The person doing the body work has the doors, fenders, hood, and tailgate to massage.

I wanted the body back on the frame to check final fitment to the drivetrain and to get the gas tank mounted in the right spot. Lastly, the bed still needs help, but the bodyman didn't want to crawl into it while it was on the rotisserie.

Here's some pics of the frame and suspension the night before we took it. I also wrapped the frame in plastic so when he is working on the bed, the dust and primer won't be caking onto the pretty frame.



















 
Discussion starter · #100 ·


















 
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