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Just for reference........I still have the -1 pan on the car........At the time I was doing the engine install the -2 hadn't been released yet and was backordered.....and after I made my own mounts and got everything in place.....the pan showed up.....I had to raise the engine just enough to clear the rod ends......So......After I got the car finished it was time to worry about the driveline angles at ride height ...........The engine was at 4 Degrees down so I set the pinion angle at 4 Degrees up.....after installing the driveshaft.....the driveshaft was at 2 Degrees "UP" towards the rear end which gave a 6 Degree angle at the joint........When driving the car at speed you could feel the joints fighting each other.....I ended up calling the Driveshaft shop and after talking to them about this situation......they recommended that I change the pinion angle to -1 degree......its not right but until I get around to changing to the -2 pan and lowering the front of the engine it works O.K...........Just wanted to point out this issue which will come up at some point in the future

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507882

Ken
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
Just for reference........I still have the -1 pan on the car........At the time I was doing the engine install the -2 hadn't been released yet and was backordered.....

Snip...

...........Just wanted to point out this issue which will come up at some point in the future

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507882

Ken
Many thanks Ken,
I appreciate your comments and tips. I copied it off, put in my notebook and forward the text to the guys who are going to help me fit everything together. Now we have 3 mechanical engineers thinking about it.... :hurray:
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Playing catch up here any updates?
Not much to show at this point. Body man has put in about 2 man weeks over the past 2 months. Firewall is smooth along with the roof and the driver's quarter panel is about 50% along. I'll post a few pics in a bit. I expect him to be working on this for another 4-6 months since he only works on it on the weekend and weeknights.

Disassembled the engine and dropped everything off at the machine shop. using DynoSim to model the engine to determine the best street cam. Head flow for the LS3 heads are listed below. Intake flows just fine. I asked the shop to give me 15% more flow from them on the exhaust side. That added up to 32 more hp on the top end with the same cam. Looking at a Comp cam, I might have them adjust the LSA to 112 vs 113. I loose about 1 hp from 1500 RPM up, but gain around 12 on the top end. If anyone is interested, I can post the curves for the cams I modeled thus far. I ran Comp's cam manager last week and pulled down about 10 recommended cams. Some I already modeled, some I need to model.

Image


The frame is done except for the tank. Haven't done anything to it in months. Been focusing on house things that were neglected while I worked on the frame - new fence, fixed sprinkler leaks, installed new water heater, etc. Lots of non-automotive tasks.

That's where we stand.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Forgot to add this. Had the 4L80E rebuilt. New billet basket for the clutches. New TH400 clutches and HD servo, shift improver kit and AN fittings for the cooler. Custom built by my friends at Century Transmission. No converter picked yet as I haven't fully spec'ed the cam. I suspect it will have a 2800-3000 stall. Bit more than I wanted, but hey, you gotta go with what works.

Image

Image

Might repaint it a different color though. Looks nice - kinda battleship gray.
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·







 
That firewall looks fantastic. Been contemplating what to do on mine.
I would love to get the smooth panel but I want to retain the factory heater and blower (i think). I assume your going with a Vintage Air system or nothing?
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
That firewall looks fantastic. Been contemplating what to do on mine.
I would love to get the smooth panel but I want to retain the factory heater and blower (i think). I assume your going with a Vintage Air system or nothing?
Yes, your correct - not decided on Vintage Air or Classic Auto Air. I have a VA in my '70, but it doesn't cool that well in my opinion.

No reason not to do a smoothy panel and use the factory heater. It's rectangular, so just cut the smoothy around it. Spend some time to flatten/smooth the flange of the heater box and it would fit right in. Maybe get a body man to put some ridges in with a bead roller to make it custom. That'd be cool! :thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
Looks like I have a cam selected - or at least a front runner. Still need to look at Lunati

Here's modeled power graph for those interested. Wish these LS engines didn't have the 2500-3000 RPM flat spot.
Image

Not too shabby I think, for a street car.
 
Attached is some before and after pictures of some of the rust that has had to be fixed.
Hi Eric,

Great project. I'm just beginning down that same road.

I live in Justin - just north of Texas Motor Speedway - and the truck is currently in Sacramento, CA. The floors need to be replaced and, my friend, who is keeping the truck until I get it transported, has the capability to do that so, I'll probably get that done there.

Just wondering where you got the floor pan for yours and what you thought of the quality? I haven't found anyone who supplies the full pan - like you used - for the El Camino so, I'm assuming you used a Chevelle floor. Also, since the El Camino version of the full pan only goes to the rear bulkhead, it will have to be cut in half in order to get it in the door. What do you think of labor/cost of going that route and re-welding the cut -vs- removing the rear bulkhead, as you did, and replacing the pan all the way back?

Thanks. I'm looking forward to following your progress. I'm going with a stock Corvette LS2 and s 4L65E transmission.

BTW, the National El Camino Owners (NECOA) is having their annual Texas gathering in Belton on May 30th. We've averaged about 100 El Camino in attendance over the past four years.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Hi Eric,

Great project. I'm just beginning down that same road.

I live in Justin - just north of Texas Motor Speedway - and the truck is currently in Sacramento, CA. The floors need to be replaced and, my friend, who is keeping the truck until I get it transported, has the capability to do that so, I'll probably get that done there.

Just wondering where you got the floor pan for yours and what you thought of the quality? I haven't found anyone who supplies the full pan - like you used - for the El Camino so, I'm assuming you used a Chevelle floor. Also, since the El Camino version of the full pan only goes to the rear bulkhead, it will have to be cut in half in order to get it in the door. What do you think of labor/cost of going that route and re-welding the cut -vs- removing the rear bulkhead, as you did, and replacing the pan all the way back?

Thanks. I'm looking forward to following your progress. I'm going with a stock Corvette LS2 and s 4L65E transmission.

BTW, the National El Camino Owners (NECOA) is having their annual Texas gathering in Belton on May 30th. We've averaged about 100 El Camino in attendance over the past four years.
Hi Less,

The El Camino Store has the floorpan from the toe boards to the bed. Link Quality was good I thought. It matched the parts we removed and only took a little massaging to get it to fit right. It is painted and the paint held up to protect it. It is not weld through primer though.

The two paths you identified are basically about labor. Either is not really difficult
1 Cutting the floor and installing it in 2 pieces
2 Removing the back of the cab and installing it as one piece

I think the deciding point should be if there is any rust in the "smuggler's trunk" behind the cab. Mine had a lot of rust on the sides as well as the bottom. It made more sense to remove the back of the cab to get at all the areas needing repair. If that area is in good shape on yours, then I'd try to limit how much you have to remove. Another area to check is the braces on the bottom of the floor. On mine, there were near perfect. If you have to replace any of yours, that might alter the plan a bit.

Progress has been slow since last fall due mainly to the weather. The body is progressing, but the driver's quarter has been a pain to get straight. The body man had to back track 1.5 months of work. The wheel opening transition to the quarter was pulled out too far and he had to sand it back to metal and apply some love with a body hammer. He has it shaped like the passenger side now and is back to smoothing. The dash, windshield channel, back window channel, roof, A-pillars, sail panels, passenger quarter, and rockers are done on both sides. Hard to tell much progress, but it is taking place. He is back on the driver's quarter and hopes to have that done this week or next. (He works on it in the evenings and weekends)

We will have to take a break in a month or so to do a final chassis, drivetrain, body fitment. The inside of the driver's rear wheel well was replaced, but a hole for the filler neck was missed. We need to get that done so I can finalize the gas tank location. I want to do a final check on firewall clearance and trans tunnel clearance and check the pinion angle on the diff.

Pending a successful outcome there, the body will continue and I will finish the fuel system. I will have the engine in place as well, so just waiting on the body.
 
Thanks Eric. I'm back out in Sacramento and got the smuggler's box cover off and the back window out. I lucked out!! There was probably a half inch of dirt and other clutter but, when I got it all out and clean - not a spot of rust in the box or around the back window.


I've been looking on-line at the various floor pan suppliers and now, every one now seems to only have the full length pan that includes the "smuggler's box" foot well. I know I saw one, sometime back, that had an El Camino version the ended at the bulkhead behind the seat. I can always get the full length pan and cut it but, it seems a waste to pay for the extra length pan - and shipping of the larger container - and then cut it up.


I dropped the truck off at a media blaster to have them remove the really old spray-in bed liner. I'm heading home today (if the flight doesn't get cancelled because of weather in DFW. I can't believe the weather at home. It's been 70 degrees here all week). When the blaster is done, my friend will move the truck to his shop and I'll come back out in a couple of weeks and start on the floor. I want to get the floor done here before I take it home - while I have the shop and experienced help.


Thanks again.
 
Great thread. I love 65 el caminos. I`ve had 3 and looking forward to the time I can get a 4th. I would love to do a LS conversion for a driver and this is giving me ideas.

Les, what part of Sacramento are you in? I`m in Citrus Heights. Got any pics of your project?
 
Hi Anthony,

I don't want to hijack Eric's thread so, I started one here : http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7220474#post7220474.

I live in Texas but, my best friend, who is helping me with the 65 lives in Slough House. His business is at the old Sacramento Army Depot. The truck is currently just down the way at American Stripping on Warehouse Way in Sacramento. Once the bed stripping and epoxy primer is done, we're moving it to shop at the old Elk Grove airport to replace the floor. I'll probably be back out there in two or three weeks to work on it.
 
Hi Anthony,

I don't want to hijack Eric's thread so, I started one here : http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7220474#post7220474.

I live in Texas but, my best friend, who is helping me with the 65 lives in Slough House. His business is at the old Sacramento Army Depot. The truck is currently just down the way at American Stripping on Warehouse Way in Sacramento. Once the bed stripping and epoxy primer is done, we're moving it to shop at the old Elk Grove airport to replace the floor. I'll probably be back out there in two or three weeks to work on it.
Posted over there.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·
Been a while with any updates, but things are moving. Body work doesn't look very sexy. Usually the pics I get are gray with some filler on it, then the next time it's gray and smoother...

My colleague has been slaving over the back of the cab. Since my Dad used the Elk as his daily and his delivery vehicle, there are a lot of dents in the panel at the back of the cab. Stuff slides forward under braking in pickup beds. Anyway, we had to use the original sheet metal since I was unable to find a replacement panel. We straightened what we could with it off the vehicle, but the fine finishing has been a challenge. It is pretty much complete and should go back to ..... wait for it...... gray primer this weekend.

I will have some engine pics in the next week or so as I get the engine and tranny installed.





 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
Ready for paint.



 
Looking Good ! Mine will be on the rotisserie some day, having too much fun with it right now...
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
Looking Good ! Mine will be on the rotisserie some day, having too much fun with it right now...
Dave,
It's a process and a journey. Keep up the faith and it will get done! :beers:


FYI - I went with Uni Stage 1 on the Elk and 1" drop springs front and rear. I purchased the brake kit with 2" drop spindle, but it is too much. I am installing standard height spindles very soon to get +1" verses the rear before I put the engine in. If the front ends up being too high at that point, I can put 2" drop springs in the back. Wheels were originally 14" and new ones are 17", so +1.5" height increase. - 1" drop and it should be very close to stock height. I don't want it to look like I am rolling on wagon wheels. I can still drop 1" front and rear if it is too high.

Cheers,
E
 
I have a bunch of UMI pcs that I am upgrading if your're interested...
 
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