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If you are wondering if you will be capable of using it before you buy, dont worry...its plenty simple so you wont be wasting money on something that you either cant figure out without the help of a mechanic or just cant use for whatever reason. Basically, you just hook the jumpers up to the battery just like you hook up jumper cables(they comes with the light), and hook the clamp(also in the kit) on to the spark plug wire for the number one cylinder. Than, pull the trigger on the gun and it starts flashing. You have to aim it at the harmonic balancer and every time it flashes, it will light up the timing mark on the balancer so you can see what the timing is.

Above the balancer there is usually a timing tab with degrees marked into it(these are degrees of advance). The balancer has a line scribed into it and you just look to see where the line on the balancer lines up with the timing tab as the light flashes. Its not hard job to do and the light is easy to use.....and the directions will be more specific than what Ive just posted. So, you wont waste your money cause this is a job that you can easily do without a qualified mechanic helping you, and you dont need anything else either. You will get everything you need in the kit(except a running engine to check the timing on of course....youve got to provide that part)
 
The general concept is that the strobe effect of the timing light "freezes" the image of the rotating balance against the marks if the timing tab.

Clean the grease / grime off the timing tab so you can see the numbers and mark the line on the harmonic balancer to make it easy to read. Also, unhook and plug the vacuum advance to the distributor when taking readings.

A dial back light is great if you want to measure timing beyond the marks indicated on the timing tab, as is typical in mapping a distributor for performance use -- if you can afford it. But it's not a necessity.
 
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People hear and interpret information without experiencing for themselves are only fooling themselves in believing someone elses opinion! This dial back timing light issue has been hashed over many times and all I can say that first hand I've used Sears 70. Dial back and its as accurate as a non dial back timing light! Best bang for the buck in my opinion! Attach sensor to #1 plug wire, aim at balancer with dial set at whatever degree you wish to set your timing like 36-40 etc. Goodluck timing and happy racing!
 
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I agree with Blazerbob, and the only time people seem to run into problems is when they have something like a 6A or a 6AL in use. The multiple spark at low RPM can cause certain Timing lights to have problems.

Fred.
 
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In all these timing light bashings I have heard more Craftsman than any other. I do have a craftsman thats about 28 yrs. old and works excellent but its not a dial back which I'm about ready to buy.
 
Also run MSD 6AL and no interference or accuracy problems with Sears Dialback. Did have to replace Blaster 2 coil when starting burnout wouldn't let me go over 3500 rpm before cutting out! Replaced and everything hunkydorry again!
 
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blacknwhite71

There are some strong opinions here on dial back lights versus standard lights. I've got a Mac dial back from the pre-digital era that I bought used when I was working as a mechanic 10 years ago. I used it on lots of cars without a problem back in the day, but can't remember a 6AL and my Chevelles don't have 'em. There are others here that know more than I.

There is a different way to decide what to buy. The dial back lights cost more, but you don't need one if a.) you're not interested in what your total timing is because your set up is stock or close to it; or b.) you use timing tape on your balancer with a standard light. If this is a new tool for you and cost is a factor (as it often is) maybe it's best to start with a standard light.

To your question about how to set timing. Re-read the post from greg_moreira. The timing light will have jumpers that go to the battery that powers it, and a cable that clamps around the #1 spark plug wire. The timing light gives a strobe effect that you aim at the balancer and timing tab. There is a line on the balancer. The strobe effect "freezes" the line on the balancer against the timing tab -- you read the line of the balancer against the marks on the tab, which is in degrees. Unhook the vacuum advance to the distributor before you do this. To change the timing, you loosen the distributor clamp and move the distributor (but move it a VERY little bit). As you do this, you can watch the line on the balancer "move" in relation to the timing tab. The dial back light works on the same strobe concept, but instead of reading the degrees off the timing tab, you "dial" the light to the correct degrees and then read the balancer line against the zero mark on the timing tab. Post back if you need more detail. Good luck!
 
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Iv always just used the tape and an old timing light my dad gave me. I have a 6A box and no problems.

Daniel
 
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I've always used an Innova timing light with my MSD distributor & 6AL controller ignition and it has worked fine, but there is a problem with it. When the RPMs go over 3,000, the timing jumps up several degrees. At 3,000rpm the MSD switches to a single spark event, instead of the double spark under 3k. So, this indicates to me that the timing light has a problem reading the timing. I called Innova and they told me that their dialback lights do not work with MSD... The person I talked to would not go into details with me.

For this reason, I bought a Craftsman non-dialback timing light. I have not used it yet but, according to what I've read, it should work better with double-spark ignitions.

Theo.
 
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