Team Chevelle banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

Platinumsmith

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I was talking to a buddy about how my clutch shudders when I begin to engage it. He said his was doing the same thing. We made a deal, I buy two clutches, he puts them in. For both of us, that did not fix the shudder. He took them both back out had both our flywheels resurfaced & that seemed to do the trick, except both of us have had the shudder return. His is a '65 GTO, Mine is a 1967 El Camino L79 (327) with an M21 (4 speed). He and another buddy have said they will help me get it out again. Anyone have a clue what I should look for?

Darrell
 
What clutch setup did you put in the car?
How long did you run it on the resurfaced flywheel before the shudder began again?
NovaDude was talking about motor mounts, not transmission mounts.
 
Whats your final gear ratio in the rearend. Close ratio and too high a ratio you have a tendency to let the clutch slkp a bit to compensate for lack of gear ratio. Jim
 
Look for an oil leak in the area (pan gasket or rear main) letting oil out and vaporize at speed. Doesn't take much to give you the shudder you have. As mentioned, check both engine mounts as well as the trans mount.
 
Several years ago acquired 1985 K20 pickup. Had flywheel resurfaced and put in new clutch & pressure plate. It had horrible clutch chatter as soon as I started driving it. Researched online and found a YouTube sight showing and explaining how heat on the flywheel can temper the metal making it so hard that the clutch cannot get friction in those spots causing the chatter. Showed guy drilling the dark tempered spots with little success while easily drilling a hole in the nontempered part of the flywheel. I bought a new flywheel, installed it and problem solved. With the cost difference in buying new and resurfacing not being that much especially when figuring time spent, I will always buy new flywheel in the future.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
It could be anything listed above, and it could be worn or mis-adjusted clutch linkage. I went all through the clutch linkage on my 64 C10 and replaced everything but the factory z-bar and release-bearing fork with custom heim-joint linkages I found online. Clutch works smooth and pretty now.

Also make sure your z-bar is properly lubricated, and make sure the two ball-studs it mounts to are seated properly and not too worn.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts