With spring just around the corner im sure alot of us are very anxious to get out to our garages and get our Classics painted. Im starting this thread in hopes that the PRO'S can just give us a refresher coarse or remind us with some tips on how to paint your car in the home garage. Please specifiy attached or detached garage. My garage is a 24x24 detached (seperate from house) wooden frame with 16' door,a service door and a window at each wall. Iwas going to section part of it off using 2x2's for a frame and plastic attached to the 2x2's the fasten that with drywall screws to the bottom of the trusses,this should create kind of a booth. Then cover up the rest of the walls and ceiling (in the booth) with plastic. Will use box fans at two windows and a squirrel cage at the other window. Will open the service door (man door) up and attach screen there to exit the fumes and keep out bugs. Will raise the 16'garage door one section and lower in down on a frame built from 2x4's and screen. This will be the fresh air intake as it starts at the front of my garage and moves through to the back. Baddbob,Martin Sr. Sevt. Chevelle and other PRO'S would like to hear your opionins and tips on this subject because alot of us cant afford to go rent a spray booth,especially since the cost of paint has really gone up over the years. Lets do it in our garages at home SAFELY, so lets hear some tips or DO'Sand Dont's on how we can paint our cars at home safely. Thanks, Mark 1968 Chevelle Malibu 1968 El Camino
Garage Painting at Home
ElCamino68Elky
61 - 80 of 86 Posts
Joined
·
232 Posts
But the way to handle that is by turning all the lghts on before you start spraying and after finished painting open up doors and let it air out ,then turn off lights.ElCamino68Elky said:
Joined
·
750 Posts
I have the fans mounted about 4-feet from the floor. I fabbed a 21"X26"X8" frame between the rear wall studs that that serves as the shelf for each fan. I placed little 1"X1" strips around the inside the rear lip of the frame work. The thickness of the three filters is enough to press them gently against the back of the fan and the 1" strips keep them from falling out. I left the top of the frame open, so the filters can be slid in/out with no problem. The front of the fan is pressed gently against the outer screen.ElCamino68Elky said:
Does that make sense?
Joined
·
232 Posts
Vettefella, can you post a pic.on your set-up ??vettefella said:
Joined
·
232 Posts
Yes, your compressor should be either outside while spraying any paint supplies (if compr.cord is too short,have a extention cord made up by a quailified person) cord must be of the appropriate gauge,or if the compressor is in garage while spraying ,that section must be sealed off so no fumes and vapors can enter the section where the compressor is,only fresh air. I would think that the compressor outside by way of the proper extention cord would be the easiest and probably the safest. I am still trying to find box fans with sealed motors at a resonable price we all can afford,but so far no luck. Bowtie6869 said on a reply to this thread that you could get them for around $40.00 at Electrical Supply and at other places,but when I asked him to post some places that he knew of for that price,he never replyed back. I am waiting for Tractor Supply and Lowes to get theirs in and I will see what they have and will post a reply back. Mark
Looking back a few posts, Bowtie6869 said this: "the 40 buck the fan cost over a reg. fan...". I don't think he's saying the explosion proof fan only cost $40 but rather $40 more than a regular fan.
Hope this helps.
By the way I'll tack on another related question: I'm planning a detached garage with a bay sectioned off for painting. How can I make it a down draft?
Hope this helps.
By the way I'll tack on another related question: I'm planning a detached garage with a bay sectioned off for painting. How can I make it a down draft?
Joined
·
41,598 Posts
Also the blower in the picture is an old belt drive furnace blower.
{edit}
However the original furnace motor has been replaced with an explosion proof motor.
Original belt drive furnace motors DO have a set of contacts inside as opposed to a cheap box fan motor that has no internal switching.
{edit}
However the original furnace motor has been replaced with an explosion proof motor.
Original belt drive furnace motors DO have a set of contacts inside as opposed to a cheap box fan motor that has no internal switching.
Found this one on spraygunworld.com for $50. Say to be used for removing odor and fumes...no mention of whether it is sealed or not...
![Image]()
http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/BlueBlower.htm
BLUE BLOWER UNITS - The Blue Blower is an inexpensive yet powerful air moving tool that can be set up anywhere quickly with air flowing in any direction you want. It delivers a powerful blast up to 30 ft. away to cool people, remove odors and fumes, and to freshen the air.
• Three speed settings - 200-250-300 CFM on BB3000 and 1 speed on BB1000 at 300CFM
• (2) built-in 15 Amp grounded receptacles for power tools, lights, heating accessory, etc.
• Weighs only 8 lbs
• 115V permanently lubricated motor
• 12 ft. heavy-duty power cord
• Heavy duty power switch
http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/BlueBlower.htm
BLUE BLOWER UNITS - The Blue Blower is an inexpensive yet powerful air moving tool that can be set up anywhere quickly with air flowing in any direction you want. It delivers a powerful blast up to 30 ft. away to cool people, remove odors and fumes, and to freshen the air.
• Three speed settings - 200-250-300 CFM on BB3000 and 1 speed on BB1000 at 300CFM
• (2) built-in 15 Amp grounded receptacles for power tools, lights, heating accessory, etc.
• Weighs only 8 lbs
• 115V permanently lubricated motor
• 12 ft. heavy-duty power cord
• Heavy duty power switch
Joined
·
232 Posts
GREAT JOB RESEARCHING !! Sapperox, I tried calling this place yesterday morning before I left for work and they werent open yet. They are on (PST) zone. I will try them again this evening after work and ask them if the motor is a sealed unit or not. Man, if this unit is safe for removing fumes and vapors like they say it is,and if its only $50.00 like you said,(I couldnt find the price) and it being 3-speeds then we got ourselves a solved problem and at a very affordable price if thats right. Thanks Sapperox for taking the time to research and to POST your results here. Its Appreciated very much. Marksapperox said:Found this one on spraygunworld.com for $50. Say to be used for removing odor and fumes...no mention of whether it is sealed or not...
![Image]()
http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/BlueBlower.htm
BLUE BLOWER UNITS - The Blue Blower is an inexpensive yet powerful air moving tool that can be set up anywhere quickly with air flowing in any direction you want. It delivers a powerful blast up to 30 ft. away to cool people, remove odors and fumes, and to freshen the air.
• Three speed settings - 200-250-300 CFM on BB3000 and 1 speed on BB1000 at 300CFM
• (2) built-in 15 Amp grounded receptacles for power tools, lights, heating accessory, etc.
• Weighs only 8 lbs
• 115V permanently lubricated motor
• 12 ft. heavy-duty power cord
• Heavy duty power switch
Joined
·
28 Posts
U better get about 4 or 5 of them blue blower things. They are not that strong. Guy at my work bought one. Could not feel the air blowing from about 5 ft away.. Anyways my set up did not work as weel as i thought it would. The vent hose and that wood front i made is to small. And the filter gets cloged up real fast. So I'm going to half my garage. Than going to make a hole in the wall mount the blower to it.And built a open box out of 2 by4's than put the fitlers around it.I think this will work alot better.
Dean were u talking about my set up? The motor on mine I got from a paint mixing mechine. Its a sealed motor
Dean were u talking about my set up? The motor on mine I got from a paint mixing mechine. Its a sealed motor
Joined
·
232 Posts
Well, I called last night and these blue blower units are pretty small, 12 inches x 12 inches. for $48.60 each. And the guy said that they were NOT EXPLOSION PROOF, so I guess its back to the hunting grounds. MarkElCamino68Elky said:
Joined
·
41,598 Posts
Yes and I knew you had replaced the motor with an explosion proof motor but it didn't sound like I knew that in my post, did it. sorrybodyman9174 said:
(I went back up and edited it)
I don't know what the horse power of the new motor is but you could probably use that motor on a larger blower and speed it up to it's max. amp draw to get more CFM
Joined
·
28 Posts
Yeah i'm looking for a bigger blower now. But i think this will do. I know i can stand on the other side of my garage (24 feet away) and it will blow your hair.Just have to set it up another way... No harm done was just asking if u were taking about mine.
Joined
·
28 Posts
hey ElCamino68Elky see if u can find any body shops or any jobbers getting rid?throwing away a old mixing staion. Than u can use a squrial cage or hell u can get on of them big fans thats belt drive. And hook that up to it. Thats how I got mine from a body shop.
Joined
·
232 Posts
Thanks Bodyman9174, Im going to the Flea Market in the morning to see what I can find in the way of fans and blowers. Mark
Joined
·
232 Posts
Still no luck yet finding a fan with a SEALED MOTOR at a decent price. But I am still trying and researching this matter and when I find the answer to this ,I will post back with my findings. Thanks, Mark -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------1968 Chevelle Malibu -1968 El Camino
Here's the most cost effective way to do it. Do all your body work, prep work, etching, and priming at home. Then trailer the whole thing to someone like Maaco. They will spray anything you want, with whatever topcoat you want, and the finished job will be ten times better than any novice can accomplish in his garage. Plus it's warrantied. The local Maaco quoted me $650 to spray a single stage topcoat, paint included. I looked at some of their other work, and it was very good, except for the prep and tape work. This is of no concern to me because I will be dismantling the entire car and doing my own taping.
That'a alot better than the $5500 the local body shop wanted to do the work, and the prep work still wouldn't be as good as what I can do at home.
That'a alot better than the $5500 the local body shop wanted to do the work, and the prep work still wouldn't be as good as what I can do at home.
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Weird because around me nobody, not even maaco, will warranty a job if they did not do the prep and prime. Most shops around here wont do it all unless they do the prep and prime because if there are issues like lifting, bubbling, etc. they get tied up in drama and lawsuits trying to prove it was your fault or atleast prove it was not theirs. I've spoken to 2 maacos and 4 body shops, all gave me the same answer. I suppose you could get around this with a signed document stating that you would not hold them liable but then the concern there is - how good of a job are they going to do and how much real effort will they put forth knowing that no matter what, they wont be held liable for paint failures.TJC said:
61 - 80 of 86 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
