I am going back original with my car but decided to go with urethane just because they will last forever and not dry rot like rubber. Now I am starting to second guess myself and wanted some opinions on what I should do. How harsh is the ride quality with urethane bushings?
Rubber vs. Urethane Control Arm Bushings
1970SS
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I am going back original with my car but decided to go with urethane just because they will last forever and not dry rot like rubber. Now I am starting to second guess myself and wanted some opinions on what I should do. How harsh is the ride quality with urethane bushings?
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On my 71 SS I went with rubber on the front , for a better ride . Installed PST poly graphites to tighten the rear up and also these poly bushings are quiet . I did this 6 years and the ride is still good .
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4,408 Posts
Polyurethane bushings in the stock rear control arms cause the rear end to bind up. I had them in and went back to rubber.
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Mine too with the squeaks and harsh ride. Going to replace with rubber soon.
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14,300 Posts
In the rear, poly in the lower arms and in the frame side of the upper arms with rubber in the pumpkin makes for a long lasting, noise-free very controlled setup. Grease the poly properly upon installation and you'll not hear any squeeks. I've had this set up in my L79 car since, well, almost forever and I've never had any noise or bind.
I used Energy Suspension bushings front and rear and did use their special grease during installation. What causes the rear end to bind up when using urethane instead of rubber. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around that. With the special grease lubricating the contact and pivot points of the bushings, I wouldn't think there would be an issue.
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PST sells poly graphites , I've used them for 6 years with no squeaks or binding on the rear axle , just install them with the instructions and grease provided .
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246 Posts
i've got the Energy suspension polygraphite in my Camaro. Use the lube. Tightened up dramatically and never a squeak.
But then, any type of new bushing is better than an old wobbly one.
Just buy a little can of the lube they sell and use it. Not a sound. :thumbsup:
But then, any type of new bushing is better than an old wobbly one.
Just buy a little can of the lube they sell and use it. Not a sound. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the input guys. I have been reading some old threads on the binding issue in the rear with all poly bushings. Rich suggested I keep all poly in the rear except for rear upper bushings that press into the rear axle housing. I am assuming the thought there is that the rubber upper bushing will allow enough flex to prevent the binding problem. This would make my life a lot easier since all of the bushings are already installed. Can someone tell me what happens when the rear suspension binds. Do you hear a nasty popping/creaking noise or what?
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14,300 Posts
Rear suspension bind if it shows up appears in the handling department. If it is severe, it will appear as a high pivot point the car will pivot around when the car leans during a hard corner. Putting rubber bushings in the axle housing allows the suspension to avoid bind by allowing some deflection in the system but by having poly in the other locations provides the longevity, handling and avoidance of wheel hop that poly provides.
A more expensive way to get the best of both worlds is to use upper arms with Currie Johnny Joints (a rubber encased heim joint) or to go with heim joints though straight heim joints can create sound and vibration issues.
A more expensive way to get the best of both worlds is to use upper arms with Currie Johnny Joints (a rubber encased heim joint) or to go with heim joints though straight heim joints can create sound and vibration issues.
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