Has anyone out there done a Vintage Air conversion on their 68-69 Chevelle? My 68 is an a/c car already, but it sat for several years before I got it and I believe that most of the components are probably shot. I tried it when I got the car,5-6 years ago but it only blew warm air and since then the heater blows room temp air. I removed the compressor last year for an engine change and did not re-install the compressor for time and working room considerations. In a few months I plan to do some more engine work (blown head gasket) and want to ad GM"S serpintine belt conversion kit and plan to fix the a/c at the same time. Should I stay with the stock stuff or switch to the Vintage air set-up. Originally is not an issue as this is a "fo-do" sedan and I will be changing a lot of other things in the near future. Any comments/suggestions would be helpful at this stage. Thanks.
Vintage air conversion
bubbamura
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Has anyone out there done a Vintage Air conversion on their 68-69 Chevelle? My 68 is an a/c car already, but it sat for several years before I got it and I believe that most of the components are probably shot. I tried it when I got the car,5-6 years ago but it only blew warm air and since then the heater blows room temp air. I removed the compressor last year for an engine change and did not re-install the compressor for time and working room considerations. In a few months I plan to do some more engine work (blown head gasket) and want to ad GM"S serpintine belt conversion kit and plan to fix the a/c at the same time. Should I stay with the stock stuff or switch to the Vintage air set-up. Originally is not an issue as this is a "fo-do" sedan and I will be changing a lot of other things in the near future. Any comments/suggestions would be helpful at this stage. Thanks.
If I had my choice between a V/A conversion and factory air, I would take the factory air for several reasons: The quality of the components is better and the system will work well with your car because it was designed for your car. I installed a V/A system in my factory air car because the evaporator and compressor were shot and I had barbed hose connectors with worm clamps on all the hoses and I didn't feel comfortable switching to R134 refrigerant with these. In your case you are going to change the compressor when you switch to serpentine anyway and you will need to fabricate some hoses to do the conversion, so the only other components are the evaporator and condenser. If you are unsure of their condition, check them out before you start adding stuff and convert the whole system to R134.
I put a GM Serpentine Belt system on a new crate engine in my '68 ElCamino which has factory A/C. After a lot of thought and reading just about everything on-line about Automotive Air Conditioning, I decided to keep the original system, but upgrade it and convert to R134.
I'm keeping the stock evaporator and POA valve, and found instructions on line to adjust the POA to work with R134. I bought a new parallel flow condensor from Arizona Mobile Air (ACKits.com) which is supposedly more efficient for R134. I bought a new Receiver/Dryer and Expansion Valve from Automotive Compressor Works, and got a new R4 compressor with the serpentine system.
I decided to replace my radiator core support, so that slowed me down a bit. What I need to do now is fabricate some brackets and get the new Condensor mounted and figure out where to mount the Receiver. Once I do that, I can measure for the new hoses, and when I figure out the fittings, I'll order custom hoses from Ray's Auto Air & Heat (www.rayeveritt.com).
I'll keep you posted on how it's going.
I'm keeping the stock evaporator and POA valve, and found instructions on line to adjust the POA to work with R134. I bought a new parallel flow condensor from Arizona Mobile Air (ACKits.com) which is supposedly more efficient for R134. I bought a new Receiver/Dryer and Expansion Valve from Automotive Compressor Works, and got a new R4 compressor with the serpentine system.
I decided to replace my radiator core support, so that slowed me down a bit. What I need to do now is fabricate some brackets and get the new Condensor mounted and figure out where to mount the Receiver. Once I do that, I can measure for the new hoses, and when I figure out the fittings, I'll order custom hoses from Ray's Auto Air & Heat (www.rayeveritt.com).
I'll keep you posted on how it's going.
You can do a visual inspection and look for oil stains. If there is staining on the component, there is a leak. You might be able to rig up something to add vacuum to the components and see if the vacuum holds. You will have to change the filter/drier and either adjust or replace the POA valve.
Thanks for all the help, this should make it much easier. By the way Jim, sweeeeeeeeet looking "wagoon" you got there, hope my "fo-do" turns out as beautiful as your's! I see you have already done the serpintine belt set-up. Any troubles during the install, it looks like it should go pretty easily and eliminate all the stupid bracket hastles........I put all the stock stuff back on my 67 Camaro and NOTHING would line up properly.....and yes I did use a short water pump!
Joined
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50 Posts
I have a Vintage Air GenII Super Cooler in my 67 that works awesome. I also went with the VA FrontRunner serpentine system, so the alt, a/c, p/s, and waterpump are nicely packaged on the front of the engine. I have an electric Zirgo 3300cfm pulling through the larger of the two BeCool's available for a 67. It was expensive, so not the route most people would choose to take, but relatively simple and straightforward to install - been trouble free for almost 2 years - although the car hasn't been driven consistently over those 2 years. The FrontRunner handles the 650hp the 434 is kicking out. I had two different control configurations before I converted to a Haneline custom dash at which point I ordered the seperate rotary controls from VA and put the 4 control knobs (you can get rotaries and billet knobs separate through VA) on the dash plate. The lower dash cutout where the original GenII AC controls were fitted is now covered with a nicely done aluminim plate that will hold the LED's for an electric water pump and new larger capacity fan, as well as oil and trans temp gauges.
The Super Cooler and FrontRunner are coming out and going into a new project. The 67 is running so well, we decided to cage it and go racing.
Vintage Air = easy, straightforward installation, icy cold even in TX heat
FrontRunner = never even a hint of belt slip, let alone throwing one; design is bulletproof.
Best,
Mike
The Super Cooler and FrontRunner are coming out and going into a new project. The 67 is running so well, we decided to cage it and go racing.
Vintage Air = easy, straightforward installation, icy cold even in TX heat
FrontRunner = never even a hint of belt slip, let alone throwing one; design is bulletproof.
Best,
Mike
G
Guest
·I have a factory air 67 but the heads I'm using on my SB and the headers will not let me use the factory air setup. VA makes a system for a factory AC car, the firewall plate is much smaller and flat, that is the key, flat!! All the fan stuff is moved inside. If I put AC back on this car it will be the VA setup.
Joined
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50 Posts
Exactly, Wally! That is an excellent point - with the VA system, my firewall is flat and offers plenty of space for mounting things like the 6AL and pressure regulator (plenty far apart, yes). Inside the cockpit, the GenII tucks up underneath the dash so far it is hardly noticable - there is NO loss of leg/foot room on the front passenger site. And again, the R134 is cold, cold, cold. I mounted two of the flat vents on the bottom of the dash and used the original bezels for the sides as well. Also have a butt kickin' defroster - way better than the stock unit ever was.
Mike
Mike
More good info, thanks guys,anyone what to install it for me? Just kidding! One more question on the VA....do you need to remove the stock heater box under the dash or does everything kinda connect to it? I was looking at the Front Runner serpentine system and it is quite pricey....I can get the GM kit for $750 with compressor, alternator, p/s pump and all the brackets and belt and pulleys...just ad motor!
Joined
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50 Posts
Mine's a 67 coupe. I removed all the stock heat/ac stuff and glassed in the firewall (easier to remove if I ever lose my marbles and want to put the car back to stock) for a flat surface. AFTER I did that, I found out I could have gotten a simpel cover plate from VA, but hey, at least I learned how to lay down fiberglass.
At first I was going to use a Sure Fit unit from VA but when I got into all the business of vacuum lines and having to rebuild the old lever control kit, I bagged the Sure Fit idea and decided to go with the electric servo GenII. I did tons of research and even bought a unit from hot rod air before I bought the one from VA. The comparison was night and day. I bartered the HRA unit away to a guy in exchange for some wiring harness work.
As I've said many times, I have no relationship with VA other than I like their products. It's a little easier for me to resolve any problems I may come across since their factory is only 30 minutes from my house. The factory tour was what sealed it for me. They really do have their act together - R&D isn't a term they just throw around - the actually have a lot of creative, sensible, leading edge design in their products. They're not going to throw something out there that's not proven just to gain a temporary competitive edge.
Anyway, I couldn't be happier with their product, service, quality, attitude....all that.
VA is about as bulletproof as you can get in the aftermarket AC world. As we've all exprienced, there is no limit to what companies can say in their ads and marketing promo's. Proof comes from the customer base. VA tracks their market performance a closely as they can - I think they have 3X the customer base of all the other aftermarket A/C providers combined. They must be doing something right....
Best,
Mike
At first I was going to use a Sure Fit unit from VA but when I got into all the business of vacuum lines and having to rebuild the old lever control kit, I bagged the Sure Fit idea and decided to go with the electric servo GenII. I did tons of research and even bought a unit from hot rod air before I bought the one from VA. The comparison was night and day. I bartered the HRA unit away to a guy in exchange for some wiring harness work.
As I've said many times, I have no relationship with VA other than I like their products. It's a little easier for me to resolve any problems I may come across since their factory is only 30 minutes from my house. The factory tour was what sealed it for me. They really do have their act together - R&D isn't a term they just throw around - the actually have a lot of creative, sensible, leading edge design in their products. They're not going to throw something out there that's not proven just to gain a temporary competitive edge.
Anyway, I couldn't be happier with their product, service, quality, attitude....all that.
VA is about as bulletproof as you can get in the aftermarket AC world. As we've all exprienced, there is no limit to what companies can say in their ads and marketing promo's. Proof comes from the customer base. VA tracks their market performance a closely as they can - I think they have 3X the customer base of all the other aftermarket A/C providers combined. They must be doing something right....
Best,
Mike
I had a slightly different experience with the tech side of VA. They recommended a super cooler unit for my wagon which made sense to me. When I got it, it wouldn't fit under the dash with the factory radio in place and was a tight fit without it. The tech rep said I should just remove the radio and any other components that were in the way... The control unit fell apart in my hands while I was examining it. My unfortunate problem was that I bought the unit almost a year before I installed it. I wanted to return everything and start over, but they wouldn't do that. They did exchange the super cooler under dash part of the unit for a sure fit unit that I was charged extra for and which they said wouldn't work in my factory air car. It fit very well under the dash. I had to fabricate a cover plate for the firewall, which was pretty easy and make cover plates for the holes in the cowl where the old evaporator was located. I am going to change that area and make a kick panel vent there at a later time. The factory am/fm radio is very tight and I will probably have to remove the a/c unit if I ever want to get it out. The under dash multiplex unit doesn't fit in the proper location anymore so I removed it. The heater hoses have to be connected to the core in the interior so if they are ever removed there is a good chance of spilling coolant in the car. The construction of the case is marginal. The fan is a lot noisier because it is located in the interior. The unit is very powerful and cools the car well. If I was the tech, I would have recommended a bigger condenser to get even better efficiency. Check the archives there are others who will back up the fact that the tech department is not all that good.
Hi Jim!
How goes the contracting business in Jersey?
Might you be refering to some of my comments about the VA tech staff in your response above? An update here. The super cooler is all installed and ready to charge. It better be SUPER COOL in there when I load it with R134A. Just wrote in to underline my agreement on the condensor size and add some editorial content.
An update for new readers. I made the opposite transition from what Jim did. I went from the Sure fit to the Super Cooler. My Super Cooler almost installed itself B-U-T ya gotta understand that I had made all the mods necessary to load in the Sure Fit FIRST so my dash was primed and ready for the Supercooler. I had already shortened my glove box about two inches in order to have room for the horizontal mounted Sure Fit fan. The supercooler fan is oriented vertically and having that extra 2 inchs made a world of difference.
The only added work unique to the Supercooler was in the area of the defrost and the actual mounting of the unit to the firewall. I just fabbed up a couple of brackets to mount the unit to the firewall and presta mundo the Supercooler was done as far as locating the unit behind the dash. The heater hose and A/C hose entry points into the passengers compartment was no different and the duct work was a snap.
A word on that duct work though. After a LOT of struggle with the Sure Fit system interface to the defroster outlets up by the dash pad I had a real clear idea of what I needed. My original plan was to adapt the GM Y duct to the Sure Fit. Let me add that the duct pieces supplied with the Sure Fit for use up by the dash pad are hopeless if you want a solid quality fit. VA says they are for Chevelle but I gotta tell ya they are NOT for a 72. They just DO NOT and I say AGAIN DO NOT match the contour of the area up at the lowest point on the windshied. Here is a place where VA could do some more work. I screwed around / modified / screwed around some modified some and THEY JUST ARE NOT WORKABLE P-E-R-I-D! Not gonna get the job done in my opinion. Just junk 'em from the get-go on day one. I did interface the sure fit and the GM Y duct but it took forever cause I am so darn fussy.
For the Super Cooler install I junked the GM Y duct and used two of VA's dash outlets for the Street Rod crowd then fabricated a way to attach those to my dash. Once that was done the ducting was VERY easy. My A-Body is as I said a 72 and I am sure Jims 65 is different. My experience is that the defrost duct is the biggest PIA in this whole install. That and the glove box on the 68 to 72 A Bodies. Look over my notes on older posts.
The bottom line with this stuff is you gotta be PATIENT, ya gotta be willing to take the time to THINK thru what you fabricating. Most importantly you must understand that these kits are designed primarily for installation by people who like the mechanical challenge of doing this sort of work. VA started in the Street Rod world and those guys LOVE fabricating things...that is the essence of Street Rodding from my point of view. If you think you are just gonna just rip thru the instructions supplied with the kit, then rip thru the install and be crusing cool in 4 hours or 5 hours you better think again. More on that later.
I am not saying VA intents the systems to require a lot of fabrication, on the contrary the easier to install the better for VA cause they sell more units. The reality of this endeavor is that the units requires work to install. First and foremst VA is designing A/C systems NOT designing specific unique A/C systems for each and every classic car in the world. They are generic systems...some of the kits come with this or that part that is said to be specific to this or that classic car (Like those God Damn Defrost ducts) but by and large the systems are generic. The systems demand some mechanical ability and demand patience on the part of the installer.
People yell and scream about the instructions. I think they expect instructions at the level of "Get outta bed, put on your favorite jeans, an old T shrt and old sneakers, get out you 3/8 portable drill and take the chuck key in your right hand ...after installing the drill bit in the chuck drill a .125 hole 2.3648 inches from the ........ now drill a .500 hole 4.34567 inches from the ......! Not gonna happen.
The only thing I used my VA instructions for (both with the Sure fit and the Super Cooler) was to understand the general layout and function of the parts and to understand the wiring. Other than that it is more or less all outta my head. This requires a little skill / creativity and again I gotta say it "It requires patience". Not gonna happen in 4 or 8 hours or whatever. Forget that idea.
On the matter of fabbing up parts and brackets and such remember it is very easy to fab up something that works till the next part has to go in and then you find you are screwed cause you were not building at least one step ahead in your mind. This phenomina bit me more than once. Ya gotta think ahead...how will the XYZ fit if I fab this bracket this way" how will I remove the hoses or do whatever if I fit this or that into the under dash area this way or that way". As they say when cutting wood "Measure twice cut once"
I would be more than happy to share any data I have with folks here on the board as to how I made this all work. If I do say it myself the install is top notch but then again I am relentless as far as doing the job to my personal satisfaction. It is in there rock sold and everything is nice and neet PLUS it is serviceable and accessible. You can e-mail me at HPEXPATRIOT@yahoo.com. I even have some templates and such that would be very useful to the 68 to 72 owners out there.
Oman
Oh yeah I should add my Supercooler did not fall apart as Jim reports his did but I do agree the case construction could be better. Certainly it is not of the heft and general toughness of the GM units but I think once it is in it is gonna be OK.
How goes the contracting business in Jersey?
Might you be refering to some of my comments about the VA tech staff in your response above? An update here. The super cooler is all installed and ready to charge. It better be SUPER COOL in there when I load it with R134A. Just wrote in to underline my agreement on the condensor size and add some editorial content.
An update for new readers. I made the opposite transition from what Jim did. I went from the Sure fit to the Super Cooler. My Super Cooler almost installed itself B-U-T ya gotta understand that I had made all the mods necessary to load in the Sure Fit FIRST so my dash was primed and ready for the Supercooler. I had already shortened my glove box about two inches in order to have room for the horizontal mounted Sure Fit fan. The supercooler fan is oriented vertically and having that extra 2 inchs made a world of difference.
The only added work unique to the Supercooler was in the area of the defrost and the actual mounting of the unit to the firewall. I just fabbed up a couple of brackets to mount the unit to the firewall and presta mundo the Supercooler was done as far as locating the unit behind the dash. The heater hose and A/C hose entry points into the passengers compartment was no different and the duct work was a snap.
A word on that duct work though. After a LOT of struggle with the Sure Fit system interface to the defroster outlets up by the dash pad I had a real clear idea of what I needed. My original plan was to adapt the GM Y duct to the Sure Fit. Let me add that the duct pieces supplied with the Sure Fit for use up by the dash pad are hopeless if you want a solid quality fit. VA says they are for Chevelle but I gotta tell ya they are NOT for a 72. They just DO NOT and I say AGAIN DO NOT match the contour of the area up at the lowest point on the windshied. Here is a place where VA could do some more work. I screwed around / modified / screwed around some modified some and THEY JUST ARE NOT WORKABLE P-E-R-I-D! Not gonna get the job done in my opinion. Just junk 'em from the get-go on day one. I did interface the sure fit and the GM Y duct but it took forever cause I am so darn fussy.
For the Super Cooler install I junked the GM Y duct and used two of VA's dash outlets for the Street Rod crowd then fabricated a way to attach those to my dash. Once that was done the ducting was VERY easy. My A-Body is as I said a 72 and I am sure Jims 65 is different. My experience is that the defrost duct is the biggest PIA in this whole install. That and the glove box on the 68 to 72 A Bodies. Look over my notes on older posts.
The bottom line with this stuff is you gotta be PATIENT, ya gotta be willing to take the time to THINK thru what you fabricating. Most importantly you must understand that these kits are designed primarily for installation by people who like the mechanical challenge of doing this sort of work. VA started in the Street Rod world and those guys LOVE fabricating things...that is the essence of Street Rodding from my point of view. If you think you are just gonna just rip thru the instructions supplied with the kit, then rip thru the install and be crusing cool in 4 hours or 5 hours you better think again. More on that later.
I am not saying VA intents the systems to require a lot of fabrication, on the contrary the easier to install the better for VA cause they sell more units. The reality of this endeavor is that the units requires work to install. First and foremst VA is designing A/C systems NOT designing specific unique A/C systems for each and every classic car in the world. They are generic systems...some of the kits come with this or that part that is said to be specific to this or that classic car (Like those God Damn Defrost ducts) but by and large the systems are generic. The systems demand some mechanical ability and demand patience on the part of the installer.
People yell and scream about the instructions. I think they expect instructions at the level of "Get outta bed, put on your favorite jeans, an old T shrt and old sneakers, get out you 3/8 portable drill and take the chuck key in your right hand ...after installing the drill bit in the chuck drill a .125 hole 2.3648 inches from the ........ now drill a .500 hole 4.34567 inches from the ......! Not gonna happen.
The only thing I used my VA instructions for (both with the Sure fit and the Super Cooler) was to understand the general layout and function of the parts and to understand the wiring. Other than that it is more or less all outta my head. This requires a little skill / creativity and again I gotta say it "It requires patience". Not gonna happen in 4 or 8 hours or whatever. Forget that idea.
On the matter of fabbing up parts and brackets and such remember it is very easy to fab up something that works till the next part has to go in and then you find you are screwed cause you were not building at least one step ahead in your mind. This phenomina bit me more than once. Ya gotta think ahead...how will the XYZ fit if I fab this bracket this way" how will I remove the hoses or do whatever if I fit this or that into the under dash area this way or that way". As they say when cutting wood "Measure twice cut once"
I would be more than happy to share any data I have with folks here on the board as to how I made this all work. If I do say it myself the install is top notch but then again I am relentless as far as doing the job to my personal satisfaction. It is in there rock sold and everything is nice and neet PLUS it is serviceable and accessible. You can e-mail me at HPEXPATRIOT@yahoo.com. I even have some templates and such that would be very useful to the 68 to 72 owners out there.
Oman
Oh yeah I should add my Supercooler did not fall apart as Jim reports his did but I do agree the case construction could be better. Certainly it is not of the heft and general toughness of the GM units but I think once it is in it is gonna be OK.
Joined
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50 Posts
I may have forgotten to say that my dash has been completely redone - I have a Haneline now - bagged the stock radio. I don't know about 64-66 or 68+, but my unit fit under my stock dash no problem. The only problem that did occur was during one "rewiring" job where the guy didn't use insulated connectors and one of the connectors on the GenII control unit grounded out against the radio chassis. I'd hit the AC and bam - the car would die. It took me forever to find the culprit.
I went with a custom audio "secret sound" for radio and don't use the cd player option. The control unit will fit anywhere and the receiver is under the passenger seat. Also, I do not have a glove box. I fabbed a lexan plate for mounting all the hvac relays and for getting the control wiring nice and neat since I went with 4 seperate control knobs in the haneline. Haneline drilled the holes to spec and I just mounted the controls afterwards.
Also, Detroit Speed offers two very nice components to make VA operation easier:
1. A mounting bracket for the inside unit - the Super Cooler sort of sits in the bracket and you bolt the bracket to the firewall.
2. A typeII gm p/s pump that has the reservoir integrated with the pump. It was made to fit with the VA Front Runner system.
I agree 100% with Oman. You gotta take your time and maybe you have to mock things up 2-3 times before you actually do the final install. I have a whole box full of parts I made, bought, rigged, etc and didn't use. That doesn't mean I had to become a custom fab expert, but I really got into figuring out the best way to place, attach, and support the unit for maximum effectiveness, not necessarily ease of installation.
Best,
Mike H.
I went with a custom audio "secret sound" for radio and don't use the cd player option. The control unit will fit anywhere and the receiver is under the passenger seat. Also, I do not have a glove box. I fabbed a lexan plate for mounting all the hvac relays and for getting the control wiring nice and neat since I went with 4 seperate control knobs in the haneline. Haneline drilled the holes to spec and I just mounted the controls afterwards.
Also, Detroit Speed offers two very nice components to make VA operation easier:
1. A mounting bracket for the inside unit - the Super Cooler sort of sits in the bracket and you bolt the bracket to the firewall.
2. A typeII gm p/s pump that has the reservoir integrated with the pump. It was made to fit with the VA Front Runner system.
I agree 100% with Oman. You gotta take your time and maybe you have to mock things up 2-3 times before you actually do the final install. I have a whole box full of parts I made, bought, rigged, etc and didn't use. That doesn't mean I had to become a custom fab expert, but I really got into figuring out the best way to place, attach, and support the unit for maximum effectiveness, not necessarily ease of installation.
Best,
Mike H.
well i just got done with the install of sure fit system on a 68 w/ air i had the whole dash out so i had room to work i have to agree with oaman the defrost ducts do not fit!!!! as v.a. says i too also thought on using the factory y duct but with a little grinding and por 15 patch i glued them up there and i must say it looks real nice as long as the por patch holds i think it will i would suggest that you remove the dash also good time to clean it up. it is a pain getting this all in. to me under the dash was the hardest part watch the jack nut that goes through the firewall it is easy to strip out if you need some pics i can send you some like someone said before take your time be patence if you have any questions ask. it is not a weekend job and it is not sure fit it does take some finackeling 
sound right
![Image]()
to get it to fit good luck
sound right
I am in the process of installing a GenII in my 68SS non A/C car. I was able to purchase the center and side vents from an A/C car and will use these in the install. I also got the heater/AC control assy in the deal. I gutted it and mounted the VA slide controls in it. It turned out quite well and looks almost stock. I also modified the factory Y duct. I cut off the lower portion and grafted the two "standard" defrost ducts that came with the GenII onto it. It works perfect! Two short lengths of 2" hose connect it to the GenII unit. I am now fabricating the brackets to mount it under the dash. Since the unit is rather flimsy, it is important to make the brackets fairly substantial, much more so than the ones included in the kit. All-in-all, I am glad I chose the GenII over the Shur-fit system. It is taking a little more fabrication but the advantages are worth it, i.e. no vacuum requirements or cable controls, full range heat and cool control and upper and lower vent control. I need to fab a plate to cover the heater box hole. To run the A/C and heater hoses thru the firewall, did you use the VA bulkhead fittings or just use holes with grommets? Adios for now!
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
I drilled 4 holes for the hoses on the outboard side of the hole where the original GM fan motor goes thru then I used gromets in the holes.
On my car I had to do that because I have a power antenna right there and the hose would have had to go thru the antrnna motor in order to enter the pass. compartment thru the same hole that was formerly occupied by the GM fan cage. A hidden benefit of drilling those holes outboard of the factory GM fan hole was that the "turn" they have to make into the passengers compartment was a little easier due to added room for a largeer "turn" radius. The hoses, especially the A/C hoses do not "fight" ya as much when they take a less radical turn. I did not intend to get that benefit I just sorta fell over it cause of the location of the antenna and the necessity to work around its location.
On my car I had to do that because I have a power antenna right there and the hose would have had to go thru the antrnna motor in order to enter the pass. compartment thru the same hole that was formerly occupied by the GM fan cage. A hidden benefit of drilling those holes outboard of the factory GM fan hole was that the "turn" they have to make into the passengers compartment was a little easier due to added room for a largeer "turn" radius. The hoses, especially the A/C hoses do not "fight" ya as much when they take a less radical turn. I did not intend to get that benefit I just sorta fell over it cause of the location of the antenna and the necessity to work around its location.
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