POR-15 use with primer on control arms?

72soft-top · Jun 28, 2001

Gentlemen:

I started the restore on a 72 conv. It will be a "frame-on" restification. I have removed the rear control arms, sandblasted, and replaced bushings with energy susp's poly-graphite. The springs and shocks are removed and will be replaced. The body bushings will also be replaced with poly-graphite.

I am ready to clean frame and undercarraige for painting.
Can I simply apply the POR-15 directly to the spray-primered control arm parts. If so, then is it a must to top coat with chassis black or similar.
How but the frame and rear? Wire brush and then POR?
This is not a trailer queen restore, so I will be painting finishes (gloss vs semi) to MY preferences.
Any help or experience will be of great benefit.
Thanks in advance.

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72 Chevelle Convertible (all SS options, no SS badging)

mr 4 speed · Jun 28, 2001

I've been using POR 15 for a few years,and I've never painted it over primer.Not saying it won't work,just never tried it.It does work well just applied over a surface that's been lightly sanded/or wire brushed.

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1970 Chevelle SS396/M21/4.10 My 70 SS396
Engine pic
1970 Chevelle SS454My 70 SS454
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver)
Chris Corwel,TC Member 785

yanniz · Jun 28, 2001

I believe (you might want to check with them) that you have to use the Restomotive labs primer that they sell to go with POR 15.

You do not have it to top coat it, but POR15 is sensitive to sun light (cosmetic apearance will change when exposed to sun) where chassis black is not.

I have done the engine compartment and suspension with POR and now I am doing my frame. It looks great, it works great, you just have to follow the directions exactly in order for it to work (clean with Marine clean or other, use Metal Ready and then apply POR.)

POR15 likes some rust, so you want to get all the surface rust, oil et cetera off the metal prior to applying it, so wire brush might work depending how much rust you are dealing with.

Hope this helps.

Greg 65 SS · Jun 28, 2001

Get all the grease off the chassis coat will stick to primer, I have done it and it works.

Ken K · Jun 28, 2001

I would use primer and enamel with hardner added. Why in the world would someone want to put rust on a part and paint over it? The more I read about that POR stuff the more I think someone did a real sales job on people. People in the rust belt use it because you can brush it on and they also have to deal with rust but where the rust on cars is not a problem why use it? It dulls from utlra violet rays and you have to paint over the top of it for the correct finish so what is the point of using it if you don't have to?

Dan Orgill · Jun 28, 2001

Ken, I'm not sold on the stuff either. Again, good marketing. I think POR15 is suitable for a frame on where sandblasting a frame or undercarriage isn't a viable option.

The convenience factor comes into play because the stuff can be brushed on, which IS a major upside. The downside, as you stated, is that it has to be topcoated. The stuff isn't cheap, and you have to topcoat it to boot. That doesn't sit well with me, hence, why I would never buy it.

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Dan Orgill
1969 SS396 frame off in progress
Very.......slllooooowwww......progress

blaster · Jun 30, 2001

I just partially restored my 70 malibu. I sandblasted and used POR-15 on the frame and undercarriage and it looks great when someone peaks under there. The engine compartment I smoothed on POR real light on certain things and spray painted over after it was tacky. That way you cant see the light brush marks. Anything i couldnt spray just doesnt look like I would like it too. It still looks so much better than it did.I guess I will eventually see if it last. I will eventually post pics.

Randy Mosier · Jun 30, 2001

No it's not a marketing ploy, the stuff really works, but you have to follow the directions!!! Por 15 must be applied as directed. While they say that it is okay to use OVER primer or paint, they also say that doing so reduces its corrosion inhibiting ability. (Say that three times, real fast!)
The need to topcoat is a drawback when doing a large piece such as a frame, but if you're doing fenderwells or the backside of a quarter or a floor pan, I can't think of anything that works better.
But if you repaint using conventional methods (i.e. primer and paint), aren't you still having to topcoat? Instead of Por, you'd be using primer, which you also have to topcoat with a finish coat. Think of Por 15 as a basecoat or primer, and the UV resistant Chassis Black as a finish coat. It's still about the same amount of work either way.

jonh · Jun 30, 2001

Randy:
I think you are getting a kick back from POR 15 (just kidding) I am quite sure there is a better way to accomplish the results they say they get. There are to many different ways to apply their product. I know, there are many different situations but, painting has been done for quite some time. I will probably be posting a way they used to do it 30 years ago and with great results. If my memory gets going (I've had a few paint fumes before and it sometimes gets hard to think). Later Jon

Randy Mosier · Jul 1, 2001

Specifically, I'm referring to the prep instructions and the time interval between recoating. You got to do it their way!!
The only thing I won't do is apply it over rust. I tried it a couple of times and yes I did scrape and brush all the loose rust and scale off, but it still looked rough. I usually sand or blast the area smooth and etch with Metal Ready so I can get a better looking finish.

POR-15 use with primer on control arms?

72soft-top

mr 4 speed

yanniz

Greg 65 SS

Ken K

Dan Orgill

blaster

Randy Mosier

jonh

Randy Mosier

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