Team Chevelle banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Ideas for a mildly built 350

Jump to Latest
2.8K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  ChevelleFan70  
T
#1 ·
So I have a new-to-me '72 Chevelle SS-clone with a mostly stock 350. It does have the following aftermarket parts:

  • headers (brand unknown) running into 2 1/2" collectors -> 2 1/2" pipes -> Flowmaster 40s -2 1/2 pipes to tail
  • Edelbrock Performer Series 600 cfm carb
I would like to get some additional mild performance increases out of the engine, preferably without removing the engine. What do y'all recommend?



It is mated to a TH350 and 10-bolt rear.
Thanks.
 
H
#5 ·
This really depends on how deep into the engine you want to go. A cam swap (unless you're crazy like I was) will require pulling the engine. A head swap can be done more easily with the engine in the car, but won't be as potentially effective if the cam is a teeny stocker cam. An intake can be swapped very easily, but won't yield a whole lot of power increase.

Will you be doing the work yourself? What are you willing to replace?
 
T
#7 ·
Thanks for the insight guys. I am a total newb at cars and thus my questions about not pulling the engine. I do not have the time nor resources to pull the engine myself, so I guess I will just take it a to a good engine builder.

As to some of the questions asked:

What do you plan to do with the car? - Mostly street, occasional "get on it" and perhaps once or twice at the track. NOT a track monster by any means.

What kind of power would you like to shoot for? - Honestly I do not know as I am not sure of what the current HP is nor what can be had with mild work. Just for the sake of argument let us say 350hp.

What rear gears and converter? - Stock gears I believe, 2.72?

Would you be okay with a higher than stock stall - not even sure what this means (yes I am that much of a newb! :D)

What is your budget? - More than 1k, less than 5k. I am not looking for cheap but instead fair price for decent power, so say 2-2.5K as a more realistic spend.

Without knowing more assuming its a stock bottom end, smogger heads? - Fair assumption on the bottom end. What are smogger heads?

Will you be doing the work yourself? What are you willing to replace? - See above. I would love to do it myself but not sure I can. Willing to replace whatever if it fits in budget.
 
B
#8 ·
With that being said this is what I would consider..

Changing your rear gears to 3.55, better than 2.73's but still have good cruising rpm

A edelbrock performer intake or Holley 300-36 dual plane intake

If your Interested in more power and don't want to swap the heads one of the two cams mentioned above would work great and possibly be able to use your stock Tq converter.

If you want more all together, some GM vortec heads set up to accept more than .440 lift, a cam in the mid to high 220 duration at 050 on a 110lobe sep or tighter, and some roller rockers, and correct valve springs. Along with the bigger cam you'll need a bigger converter. Something about 1800-2000 would be nice and hardly noticable.

A higher than stock Tq converter helps you accelerate from a stop and idle in gear without the engine wanting to "push through the brakes" or "stall".

Just the gear swap alone will make the car night and day.

Aaron
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
N
#12 ·
If it's a factory 350-2bbl TH350 car, it most likely has 2.56 gears (even worse).

I'm with Aaron on the 10-bolt - a mild 350 and Automatic will never hurt a GOOD CONDITION 8.2". If we are talking 150k mile junk that never had the lube changed, well, yes - it will probably break.

I had no worries about my 8.2 when I dumped the clutch at 2500 rpm while taking a little "joy ride" this past Sunday (mild 327, Muncie, in a light Chevy II - fresh gears and Eaton posi set-up properly by Me). :)
 
B
#11 ·
It's a mild 350, a 10 bolt will be fine at 350hp and on street tires.

I've gone countless 1.8 60fts, 10,000+ miles on my 8.2 with a stock shift always run with drag radials, been hammered on harder on street than the track, and at 376rwhp has yet to break. Maybe if it'll 60ft in the 1.5-1.6'a it'll break yeah.

But an auto car with street tires will smoke the tires before breaking anything, uncle it has wheel hop, which will even kill a 11.5" 14 bolt.

Aaron
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
M
#14 ·
Gear swap with a posi, and converter are verry good sugestions.

How long have you had the car? How are the brakes? How is the suspension, steering, and bushings? I think you should make the car safe and reliable first. Then make it faster. You will find that a safe car is much more fun when you start going fast.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
T
#16 ·
Mark I have had the car about a month and a half. Some of the front end is new but mostly it is stock. I know it rides well, I bought it in Ontario, OR and drove it back to Atlanta over the Labor Day weekend. Ran like a top!

With that said, I want to put on a big front sway bar, add a rear sway bar, and I have been reading about "boxed" rear something. It does have newer air shocks on the back, but the front springs I am pretty sure are original. The steering works great from what I can tell, again no issues.

I guess I am saying, I want to slowly do it all. Tighten up the suspension, make a bit more power, basically have a fun, weekend muscle car that I can still drive to the beach on rare occasion (4-6 hour drive).
 
#18 ·
TDager said:
Mark I have had the car about a month and a half. Some of the front end is new but mostly it is stock. I know it rides well, I bought it in Ontario, OR and drove it back to Atlanta over the Labor Day weekend. Ran like a top!

With that said, I want to put on a big front sway bar, add a rear sway bar, and I have been reading about "boxed" rear something. It does have newer air shocks on the back, but the front springs I am pretty sure are original. The steering works great from what I can tell, again no issues.
Click to expand...
I highly second getting the largest front sway bar you can get. I used a 1 1/4" unit from a 2nd-gen F-body. It's a bolt-on. Your boxed-somethings are "boxed rear control arms". Boxing them stiffens them up. I don't have a rear sway bar, so I can't comment.

-Dave
 
#17 ·
Welcome TDager, You came to the right place. with a budget of 5grand, you can definitly hit your goal. Using this forum, doing research and asking the right questions will get you going in the right direction. Im on the last stages of finishing up my small block project and alot of people that are responding to you, help me out in my beginning stages. Just don't be scared to buy a stand ($40) and rent a puller and tear into that thing yourself. I did and Im glad with all the fun I had as well as all the money I saved :thumbsup:

That being said, with your budget, improving the cam, heads, intake, carb are what your gonna hear people reccomend. and they are right. Also a set of 355's out back would be a good fit for the a street 350.

and if you decide to upgrade the stall, I would also look into installing a shift improver kit, so you really feel the firm shifts. they are cheap and simple to install. Alot of the work can be done in garage minus stuff like machining.

just my .02... enjoy the car!
 
Team Chevelle
posts
5.3M
members
131K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet Chevelle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restorations, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Performance Engine Chevelle Tech Body Shop