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Beef Up Shop Tables????

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3.6K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  swcash  
#1 ·
I've got a couple 8ft folding tables that I want to use in my shop. I will be stressing( loading heavy)these tables at times. Sometimes when these type tables are overloaded they sag or bow in the middle. As I will probably be overloading them so I would like to beef them up. They are just particle board with a very thin steel frame around them. The frame is 1& 3/4 inch wide.
Was wondering what ideas you may come up with for adding structural support to the table top.
I was thinking maybe strapping a 1& 3/4 x 8 ft strap of 3/4 inch plywood to the outside of them but it doesent seem very feasable to purchase a full sheet of 3/4 plywood to use a 8 inch x 8 ft section.
Was also thinking of strapping a piece of angle iron to them but don't know how expensive and feasable that would be. Below is a picture of the tables. Any ideas on something cheap to use that would beef them up?
Image
 
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#4 ·
I could easily make studier tables with 2 x 4 lumber as I did in the garage but these need to fold up and put to the side when not in use.
 
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#5 ·
By the time you beef those up enough to take the abuse you intend to heap on them, they will be too heavy to fold and store anyway! Make them out of 2X4s and hinge the legs. They will be sturdier and cheaper too.
 
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#7 ·
Cut a piece of 3/4" (or 25/32") piece of plywood the same size as the work surface (radii and all) and screw and glue (liquid nails) over the work surface. This will at least double the work surface thickness.

It won't interfere with the operation of the legs, but will make the table substantially heavier and more cumbersome to store.

You could also attach 3 pcs of angle to the bottom of the work surface (front, middle, and rear) to reduce deflection.

These two methods are how we typically increase capacity with existing components in the storage industry.

I wouldn't want to load it the table with anything over 500-600 lbs (evenly distributed load across work surface) as the legs would then be the weak link.
 
T
#8 ·
If you don't care about the ability to fold it up I'd do what others said and just build you a work surface out of 2x4's or 2x6's plus it gives you the option for storage underneath (I picked up a 4x8 table at a garage sale for 20 bucks)
 
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R
#10 ·
Not very many cheap ways.

You could replace the particle board tops with 3/4 plywood, which would be stronger and not much heavier.

Some 1/8 steel angles at the sides would improve them some. Aluminum also, but costs more.
 
#11 ·
I disagree, very simple and cheap and at the same time "fold up portable" without adding anything to the table itself.

Like I said above, a simple fold up center leg in the form of a box column constructed of 3/8" plywood, held together with hinges.
It wouldn't even need to be very large but it could be if wanted.
 
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#14 ·
A center leg will work. It might be difficult to fold and not interfere with the frame and legs under the work surface when storing. That's why I suggested increasing the work surface thickness by attaching 3/4" plywood with screws and liquid nails cut to the same dims as the particle board.

As others have suggested, a center leg is the most logical solution for strength, but it may be a bit more difficult to store.
 
P
#16 ·
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#17 ·
Image

Being in the party rental business, I can tell you that those tables will not hold up to heavy weight over time. Even with reinforcement, the legs will be stressed to the point where those little screws that hold the leg brackets will begin to pop out one at a time until the table collapses.
The tables that we use commercially are made of 3/4 " plywood with HD legs and have held up over 15 years, no problems.

www.palmersnyder.com

:thumbsup:
 
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#18 ·
I think Dean's idea is a good one. There is just enough room in between the legs (when they are folded) to slip a 2 x 4 in there. Not sure how it would work as a folding support as it would interfere with the metal legs and not allow one or the other to be stowed completely. But I could mount a 2 x 4 to the underside table top and have a groove to accept a piece of plywood with a matching grooved 2 x 4 for a base.
How effective does anyone think just glueing and screwing a 2 inch by 8 ft strip of 3/4 plywood to the outside of the long metal frames? Maybe do same thing with 2 pieces of 1/2 inch plywood? I wood (pun intened) think that would not permitt the particle board top to bow in the middle.
Also I am not planning on putting something like a full big block engine on these tables but at times I could see them being subjected to may be 250 lbs.
 
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R
#21 ·
If you are going to put plywood on the frame why not just throw the POS, lightweight particle board in the trash? What good is it? The table is made for for food service, not for a shop. If you are married to those folding legs for whatever reason, just transfer them to the sturdier plywood top with a wood frame if you don't want to reuse the lightweight metal frame.

Those legs are not heavy duty and when subjected to more abuse more than the soda cans and casserole dishes for which they're intended, failure is inevitable. I'll bet the welds on those legs are the first to go. You can make a good stowaway table but low budget recycling appears to be the only option.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Wow, I never realized what deep rooted discontent people hold for particle board tables. They were cheap and will work for now for the purpose intended.I was just looking for suggestions on beefing them up a little. If and when they fail or I require real tables I will make them. I am perfectly capable of making tables strong enough to hold an Elephant. However for the time being I must ask everyone to keep it to themselves that I am harboring particle board tables. Otherwise people might want to do a little lynching!!!!!!!:yes:
 
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S
#24 ·
I've used those type of folding legs on discarded 36" x 80" solid core doors. Either the particle board type or the metal doors are very strong. Side to side movement is what you want to keep to a minimum. Use one hole conduit clamps if you have any and 1" or 1 1/4" screws. They are heavy, but the smaller size helps keep them managable. Think about why the pb tables are the ones used by professional wrestlers when they put on a show breaking them.
Squido
 
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