Just received my restored carb (7037211EF) (2572) and would like an electric choke does anyone have a correct part number for me. I do not care where I buy it.
Thanks once again for the help
Thanks once again for the help
Q-Jet
nailer49
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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1,227 Posts
This one may work...they have others...
http://www.carburetion.com/_inv/invtocartpic.asp?Part1=EC-1444
Here's one for the big block
http://www.carburetion.com/_inv/invtocartpic.asp?Part1=EC-1439
http://www.carburetion.com/_inv/invtocartpic.asp?Part1=EC-1444
Here's one for the big block
http://www.carburetion.com/_inv/invtocartpic.asp?Part1=EC-1439
you lost me, why would you go to the trouble and expense of having a non-electric choke carb restored and then hang one of those gizmos off the side of it?
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12,323 Posts
You can only put an electric choke on it if it has a hot air type choke from the factory (has round black plastic dial). Does it have that? They sell the elect choke conversion (like the ones linked to above) for heat stove type divorced chokes but it mounts on the intake with a linkage rod to the carb.
most guys get away with using the manifold mounted choke stove/bimetal spring without the crossover valve by adjusting the choke linkage so it's really loose, barely closes even on a cold day. Now if it's an iron intake manifold and the heat is blocked off at manifold gaskets there will be trouble. You can still run the divorced choke but you'll have to set it up really, really loose as the bimetal spring won't see any real heat. If you set it up tight enough to actually act as a choke it will choke out the engine as it warms up. Lots of black smoke, gallons of gas burning doing nothing but fouling the plugs.
Kinds depends on whether you want it to work right or look right.
Kinds depends on whether you want it to work right or look right.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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