New battery and alt car wont run

jz5811 · Dec 20, 2011

I have replaced both the battery and alternator in my 1970 Malibu 350. I took it to a car show and disconnected the battery for 4 days. I hoped back in and noticed that my blinkers were sticking. I made it home and fired it up the next day to take it for a ride and the lights started dimming at a fast rate, I turned the car around and the car died about 2 min later leaving me stranded.

I had the battery recharged, fired the car right up however it didnt seem to be running right. Today I took both the battery and alt to get checked, and both are good.

I got home fired the car up and about 15 sec in the car decided it was going to gurgle itself out and die. Mind you now I still have the dome light on and key buzzer working so I still have some kind of charge.

Now I cannot seem to get the car running without giving it gas, and it is blowing smoke out the back and smells rich.

My questions is, could this be a bad voltage regulator that is not getting spark to my distributor, or are these 2 systems not related?

I have an external regulated car, with 68K and all original equipment.

Any help is much appriciated.

blm · Dec 20, 2011

I'm sure it could be. My first thought was a battery cable. If all original style set up, what about the points?

jz5811 · Dec 20, 2011

I should have stated that I am running an Accel electronic distributor.

bbmusclecars427 · Dec 20, 2011

choke on the carb stuck in the closed position?
Try holding the choke flapper open about 1/2" once you get it started.
sounds to me that you are not getting enough air into the carb.

jz5811 · Dec 20, 2011

The choke is in the right position. It just will not stay running without giving it gas.

blm · Dec 20, 2011

I think a new voltage regulator is not very expensive and should be available at local auto parts. If you were near me I have a relatively new one you could have as I changed over to an alternator with internal regulator and had replaced my external regulator not too long ago. Lights dimming is a sign your battery is not recharging. Could be a battery cable as well. There is a lengthy article in the " tech " section of this website that deals with troubleshooting distributors and electronic ignition. Start with the simple stuff first.

elcamino66 · Dec 21, 2011

A new solid state regulator is about $15-$20 bucks at Advance auto. Does not look quite like original but works great, plugs in like original and make sure it is grounded.

66sc · Dec 21, 2011

Why did you replace the battery and alternator?
Charging a battery takes days with a slow charger and several hours with a fast charger. Just driving the car for a while won't charge the battery much.

You can randomly replace parts, take it to someone hand have them fix it, or get a meter, do some testing.

jz5811 · Dec 21, 2011

66sc I actually replaced the battery about 6 months ago because I didnt shut my door all the way one night and the dome light drained the battery. For the alternator I was having trouble starting the car and the lights were dimming on me. I took the alt to Autozone and had it checked and sure enough it was bad.

Could the inconsistancy of the motor starting/running be from a loose ground? I am baffled on why the car fired right up and a few seconds later started acting like it is...

bdc1013 · Dec 21, 2011

go get a voltmeter, check the batt volts while the car is not running, and then check it while its running.

Car not running- 12.3v to 12.7v depending on state of battery
Running- 13.75v-14.5v

if the volts are within that threshold you should be looking elsewhere for your problem.

SWHEATON · Dec 22, 2011

You likely have 2 unrelated problems at the same time like a stuck choke-float hanging up-dirt in needle & seat in the carb and issues with charging system -volt reg-wiring in starting-charging systems not allowing the battery the charge properly.

Scott

72sbc427 · Dec 22, 2011

If you can find a voltmeter to use, then you will be able to see just what the electric is doing at each point.

As far as the black smoke and not running right, could be a coil. Have had horrible luck with the Accel coils. Causing diesling, backfire, rough running. Two such coils were new out of the box. The Accel plugs fouled much easier than the other brands I have used.

On holley carbs, a loose power valve can cause black smoke.

Mr Chevelle · Dec 22, 2011

I'm not one of the electrical gurus but will throw in my 2 cents....

Did the engine run GOOD before replacing the battery & alternator?

I agree with checking things with a volt meter. Make sure you have a full 12 volts to the distributor ignition terminal, a dead short isn't draining the battery when the key is off and the ignition timing is correct.

I would change the spark plugs just in case fouled plugs are the problem.....A simple fix that I've seen happen a time or two. Recently I helped a friend with his 58 wagon. He replaced the distributor & carburator with new and it still didn't run right.......We changed the plugs...problem fixed.

A fully charged battery should keep the engine running a lot longer than fifteen minutes when not using any accessories even with a bad charging system. Some drag cars don't run a charging system; they charge the battery(s) between rounds. So, just make sure the battery is fully charged when working on your problem, this should eliminate the battery/charging system from the engine issue.......

Tegguy · Dec 22, 2011

These are the steps I would follow
1) Check battery voltage running and non running
2) Check the amperage draw on the battery with the car off
3) Double check all your connections on your alternator

Every person should own a volt ohm meter they are cheap and extremely handy for house and car.

New battery and alt car wont run

jz5811

blm

jz5811

bbmusclecars427

jz5811

blm

elcamino66

66sc

jz5811

bdc1013

SWHEATON

72sbc427

Mr Chevelle

Tegguy

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