Sinister's LS Turbo build!

Sinister · Nov 30, 2011

I hope others can still find this thread.

Did a couple things today. First, I was able to find a place just above the starter area where I could put the convertor bolts in the other direction. I went and purchased a little shorter grade 8 bolt and tight fitting washer. I then used Red loctite on the nuts. Clearance is no longer a problem. It was a pain to redo them but I feel a ton better knowing that clearance won't be an issue.

My cousin Jeff who works as a Lexus mechanic fabricated me an adapter so I could move my alternator to the passenger side. It doesn't sit as high and I am not using the AC or the power steering. We cut the bracket so we could put a idler pulley on it. It looks ugly right now but we will clean it up. If it works out I am sure he will sale the brackets.

Here is a picture of the new bracket that moves the alternator to the passenger side and allows me NOT to use the a/c or pwr steering.

forcd ind · Nov 30, 2011

did you swap the truck manifolds where they point down-i heard it hits on the D/S, steering box-curious if thats true-someone cut the flange off on that side and welded a pipe to it for clearance
i need to post a pic of my buddys tube frame VW with the LS3 and T76 turbo, its a work of art-runs on alch., but some glitches stopped it from a pass

cleophus · Dec 1, 2011

Sinister said:
I hope others can still find this thread.

Did a couple things today. First, I was able to find a place just above the starter area where I could put the convertor bolts in the other direction. I went and purchased a little shorter grade 8 bolt and tight fitting washer. I then used Red loctite on the nuts. Clearance is no longer a problem. It was a pain to redo them but I feel a ton better knowing that clearance won't be an issue.

My cousin Jeff who works as a Lexus mechanic fabricated me an adapter so I could move my alternator to the passenger side. It doesn't sit as high and I am not using the AC or the power steering. We cut the bracket so we could put a idler pulley on it. It looks ugly right now but we will clean it up. If it works out I am sure he will sale the brackets.

Here is a picture of the new bracket that moves the alternator to the passenger side and allows me NOT to use the a/c or pwr steering.

If anyone is HALF as interested in this thread as I am....they'll have no problem finding it!

Sinister · Dec 1, 2011

forcd ind said:
did you swap the truck manifolds where they point down-i heard it hits on the D/S, steering box-curious if thats true-someone cut the flange off on that side and welded a pipe to it for clearance
i need to post a pic of my buddys tube frame VW with the LS3 and T76 turbo, its a work of art-runs on alch., but some glitches stopped it from a pass

Yes. The drivers side hit the steering box. I got the engine and trans all bolted up and put in the engine bay today. Here is a good tip, I was able to get one side of the engine mount bolted up. It was very difficult to get the other side done. So what I did was loosen the engine mount from the adapter plate so I would have some "wiggle" room. Once I got the bolt through, I then proceeded to tighten the engine mounts back down again.

On the trans crossmember, I moved it forward about an inch. There were additional holes already there. I just used a screw driver to "pry" the holes to line up well and put the bolts through. With everything in the oil pan is sitting about 1.5" below the cross member. I will have to make a skid plate for sure.

Mikes64 · Dec 1, 2011

Great forum and very interesting build. Gotta play catch up just on pg 8, will be watching

pist0lpete · Dec 1, 2011

I elongated the holes in my flexplate in the same manner you did. 30k miles and zero issues yet.

69-CHVL · Dec 1, 2011

Dell, did you check for starter/ring gear engagement? I have a flexplate that has a spacer on it which pushes the flex plate back apprx .5"

Here it is on the floor:

forcd ind · Dec 1, 2011

that .400 spacer is used with a "flat 4L80E" flywheel, to extend the crank to meet a 4L80E converter-i think Del used the FW that was used on a 4L60E, which is curved, but the 4l60e converter used a longer snout to reach the crank, unlike the 80e conv.
the 4L80E spacer/FW will allow a 700r, 350, 400, trans/converter to bolt up and reg the converter snout w/o any other spacers
either setup uses the same starter, as the teeth remain in the same location
some very early truck engines didint use the spacer, but actually had a longer crank in them, then they all went to the same crank
GM sells the flywheel, spacer, bolts in a kit
on another note, lol, if your using a used starter, take it apart and clean, regrease it, really helps it

69-CHVL · Dec 1, 2011

Thanks Forcd!

Sinister · Dec 2, 2011

pist0lpete said:
I elongated the holes in my flexplate in the same manner you did. 30k miles and zero issues yet.

That is really good to know. Are you running any boost or just NA?

69-CHVL said:
Dell, did you check for starter/ring gear engagement? I have a flexplate that has a spacer on it which pushes the flex plate back apprx .5"

Here it is on the floor:

What forced induction said. My spacer does not move the flex plate and I am using the starter that came with the engine. So I hope it is fine. I just bolted it back on and didn't really check alignment other than looking since it is the same starter and flywheel.

forcd ind said:
that .400 spacer is used with a "flat 4L80E" flywheel, to extend the crank to meet a 4L80E converter-i think Del used the FW that was used on a 4L60E, which is curved, but the 4l60e converter used a longer snout to reach the crank, unlike the 80e conv.
the 4L80E spacer/FW will allow a 700r, 350, 400, trans/converter to bolt up and reg the converter snout w/o any other spacers
either setup uses the same starter, as the teeth remain in the same location
some very early truck engines didint use the spacer, but actually had a longer crank in them, then they all went to the same crank
GM sells the flywheel, spacer, bolts in a kit
on another note, lol, if your using a used starter, take it apart and clean, regrease it, really helps it

The starter fired up the suburban when I got to hear it run. I didn't want to mess with it since it worked so well. Starter still almost looks new. Thanks for the tip though. My engine only had 64k and was running.

Sinister · Dec 2, 2011

This was the Fuel Regulator that was recommended to me from some guys at Yellowbullet. I thought I would post this so you can see how I will be setting this up. The only difference is I am using 2 A1000's and the using a "Y" fitting and running it to the front to another "Y" fitting. My return will be a -8 only because I already have the fuel line. So -10's all through and a -8 Return.

Sinister · Dec 3, 2011

I meant to say Fuel Regulator Diagram in the above post. Anyways, I was able to get my new bracket set up that deletes the AC and pwr steering. I think I need to go with a shorter belt though. It is going to be too close and too steep of angle by the water pump. Here is a picture of the set up. Tomorrow I am going to weld my T4 flanges that came in and get the turbos mounted on the exhaust.

Sinister · Dec 8, 2011

Got all the cold side piping in and won't get the hotside delivered until Monday. I was able to finally get the correct size belt to work with the new belt set up. Here is a picture with the correct size belt. It is a NAPA 64 3/4" belt.

Sinister · Dec 8, 2011

Got some of the little things done today.

I put an oil distribution block on instead of tapping. This was actually already done but I added another feed. The 90 will feed my oil pressure guage I already had, and the straight fitting I will run a hose up and under my intake. From there the line will connect to a "T" and from the T to each turbo.

This is where I decided to place the Oil Catch Can. It will be out of the way of my exhaust and should be able to run two short -8 hoses without any issues. It is also out of the way of my "Y" fitting that sits just below and to the right from my fuel line to the fuel rails.

Thanks to "Thunderstruck" I was able to get an almost perfect fitting lower hose using my stock replacement aluminum radiator. It was a Gates 20734. I had to trim about an inch off where it connects to the water pump. This made a nicer fit. I still need to figure out what hose to use for the upper. If someone wants to look at the pictures I posted earlier of my belt set up and give me a recommendation that would be much appreciated.

I plan on going back out in the garage tonight after the kids go to sleep and trying my first attempt at making a "Y" pipe comeing off my throttle body. We'll see how it goes.

Sinister · Dec 10, 2011

I got a few more things done today. First I moved the oil catch can. It was in the way of the coil packs. Now it runs along the top of the valve cover and should be out of the way. If you guys don't mind. Really look at my engine and make sure everything makes sense. I took a plug out of the radiator just below the cap and put in a 1/4NPT barb and ran a 1/4 heater hose from there and connected to a line at the front of the engine behind the alternator. I believe this is a steam provision but want to make sure that I set that up correctly.

There are still some items I need everyone's help with. Part #'s would be great!
1. What upper radiator hose should I use that will work with my belt set up.
2. I bought a MAP sensor that was recommended but I don't think it will work with my 4 bolt throttle body. I believe that I need throttle positioning sensor and a MAP sensor for the two items missing on my throttle body. Again, correct me if I am wrong. I also need part #'s for these two items and if I should just go to O'reilly's to buy them, ebay, or a Junk Yard.
3. What spark plugs are recommended? Remember that I will be running E85 and no intercooler. I prefer an NGK if possible. They are very easy to read.

I think that is it. I should have my Cold Side done this weekend. We got it all cut up and merged into a "Y" pipe and tacked up. Now we just need to clean it up and smooth the merge better. Thanks for any help you guys can recommend.

LevonH · Dec 10, 2011

Hi.
Are you sure you want to have the catch can there? Any fumes are going to find their way to the windshield and normally you want these cans at the front in cool air to cause the oil to separate (condense) into the can.

Sinister · Dec 10, 2011

LevonH said:
Hi.
Are you sure you want to have the catch can there? Any fumes are going to find their way to the windshield and normally you want these cans at the front in cool air to cause the oil to separate (condense) into the can.

I was thinking with the cowl that it would pull cool air in and cause the oil to seperate. If it doesn't work there my plan was to make a bracket off to the side of the radiator. Only reason I don't have it there right now is because I am not sure how I can route until I get it all the cold side piping done.

blue66 · Dec 10, 2011

Sinister said:
I got a few more things done today. First I moved the oil catch can. It was in the way of the coil packs. Now it runs along the top of the valve cover and should be out of the way. If you guys don't mind. Really look at my engine and make sure everything makes sense. I took a plug out of the radiator just below the cap and put in a 1/4NPT barb and ran a 1/4 heater hose from there and connected to a line at the front of the engine behind the alternator. I believe this is a steam provision but want to make sure that I set that up correctly.

There are still some items I need everyone's help with. Part #'s would be great!
1. What upper radiator hose should I use that will work with my belt set up.
2. I bought a MAP sensor that was recommended but I don't think it will work with my 4 bolt throttle body. I believe that I need throttle positioning sensor and a MAP sensor for the two items missing on my throttle body. Again, correct me if I am wrong. I also need part #'s for these two items and if I should just go to O'reilly's to buy them, ebay, or a Junk Yard.
3. What spark plugs are recommended? Remember that I will be running E85 and no intercooler. I prefer an NGK if possible. They are very easy to read.

I think that is it. I should have my Cold Side done this weekend. We got it all cut up and merged into a "Y" pipe and tacked up. Now we just need to clean it up and smooth the merge better. Thanks for any help you guys can recommend.

Del, in the pic of your TB, on top is where the IAC goes and the bottom is where a TPS goes, the MAP sensor will probably just hookup to a vacuum line off the intake. Looks like GM stuff would bolt on.

On the radiator, you have the correct idea, but the little hole under the cap is for the catch can. It is in between the cap seals so it can seal outgoing but allow incoming coolant from the can. What some do is drill and tap a hole in the top of the waterpump near the outlet, (seems to work fine) However, I believe returning to the radiator, (highest point) in the cooling system would be best, as you are wanting to separate any air/steam from the coolant. But this is where the coolant is heading from the waterpump, so it's probably a wash, LOL.

forcd ind · Dec 10, 2011

your gonna need a 2 or 3 bar map sensor, depending on boost amount-you can hook it to the port in the intake-2 bar is good to about 14 lbs boost
some people drill & tap the waterpump for the steam fitting, but i used a bung and ran it to the radiator-these engines get a lot of air lock
once you get to that point, fill the engine from the upper radiator hose, just filling the radiator doesnt always work out, as the thermostat is on the return, and needs water behind it to first open

Sinister · Dec 10, 2011

blue66 said:
Del, in the pic of your TB, on top is where the IAC goes and the bottom is where a TPS goes, the MAP sensor will probably just hookup to a vacuum line off the intake. Looks like GM stuff would bolt on.

On the radiator, you have the correct idea, but the little hole under the cap is for the catch can. It is in between the cap seals so it can seal outgoing but allow incoming coolant from the can. What some do is drill and tap a hole in the top of the waterpump near the outlet, (seems to work fine) However, I believe returning to the radiator, (highest point) in the cooling system would be best, as you are wanting to separate any air/steam from the coolant. But this is where the coolant is heading from the waterpump, so it's probably a wash, LOL.

forcd ind said:
your gonna need a 2 or 3 bar map sensor, depending on boost amount-you can hook it to the port in the intake-2 bar is good to about 14 lbs boost
some people drill & tap the waterpump for the steam fitting, but i used a bung and ran it to the radiator-these engines get a lot of air lock
once you get to that point, fill the engine from the upper radiator hose, just filling the radiator doesnt always work out, as the thermostat is on the return, and needs water behind it to first open

Very Helpful! Thanks. Good thing I asked...huh? Since I plan to use 19lbs of boost I assume I will need a 3 bar. I will look on ebay. I guess I need to check and make sure that HPtuners or EFI live can tune a 3 bar?

Sinister's LS Turbo build!

Sinister

forcd ind

cleophus

Sinister

Mikes64

pist0lpete

69-CHVL

forcd ind

69-CHVL

Sinister

Sinister

Sinister

Sinister

Sinister

Sinister

LevonH

Sinister

blue66

forcd ind

Sinister

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