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Also I noted that there is a gap from the bottom of the steering box to the top of the pitman arm and the splines on the shaft are visable above the pitman arm, makes me think it's not fully installed. I'll get a photo of this and post it tonight.
This is normal. As long as the large nut with a large lock washer can be fully installed and have a thread or two showing below the nut then it is fully installed.
 
This is normal. As long as the large nut with a large lock washer can be fully installed and have a thread or two showing below the nut then it is fully installed.
Mine is the same way. the splined shaft is tapered so once you hit the torque setting, you're there.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Sorry that I haven't posted photos, sometimes work gets in the way.

I'll still try to get photos, NAPA called today and the center link I ordered is in. I'll compare to what I took off and the ones I ordered and decide if they have the right one.
If it's a no fit, then I think I'll look at the 69 Chevelle center link and try it for fit. If it fits then I'll look to see if the steering box or pitman arm is oncorrect. At the end of the day I hope to get all of the correct '67 parts on the car (for safety - not vanity).
If necessary and the 69 center link fits then I will assess what impact (steering geometry) it may have to leave it on the car.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Tried the last center link from NAPA, same as before - doesn't fit. Also tried the 69 chevelle center link from NAPA, still no joy.

So now I am looking at the steering box and the pitman arm to verify correct or incorrect parts for the 67 El Camino (see photos attached). Also not the rag joint is not properly assembled and I think the pitman arm and/or the steering shaft may be too far down.

A couple quick measuremenst to consider, center of hole for drag link on the pitman arm is 3 and 5/8 inch forward of the front crossmember. The length of the pitman arm from center to center of holes (drag link to steering shaft) is 4 and 7/8 inch. The drop (bottom to bottom) on the pitman arm is 1/2-5/8 inch. I checked the distance from the ground and the idler arm and the pitman arm are very close to being at the same height from the ground.

My best guess is the steering box is a Saginaw ("S" logo on the case) and the case is pn 5679142.

Any suggestions?

I'm going to check a couple of local shops to see if someone can replace the ball studs on my center link. Although this will work, is it the best answer?
 

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
I got the new steering box today, I'll get it installed over the weekend. I'll post a pic next week.

But I need to know if I have the right pitman arm for a manual steering car.

It would be great if somebody has a manual steering car and could take a couple measurements and/or send me some pics showing the pitman arm.

The length of my pitman arm from center to center of holes (drag link to steering shaft) is 4 and 7/8 inch. The drop (bottom to bottom) on the pitman arm is 1/2-5/8 inch.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Still trying to resolve this issue.

The new steering box went on great, but the center link still binds on the crossmember.

I really need to get the pitman arm dimensions (see thread for "Pitman Arm Dimensions").

Any ideas?
 
Still trying to resolve this issue.

The new steering box went on great, but the center link still binds on the crossmember.

I really need to get the pitman arm dimensions (see thread for "Pitman Arm Dimensions").

Any ideas?
Two things, I just acquired a 66 Chevelle manual steering and I KNOW it's original, as it's sloppy. I can get a measurement of the pitman arm.

After all this time, I can't believe no one led you to Rare Parts in CA. They make an oe center link for these cars and will also rebuild the ball ends of yours. Might be worth looking into.
http://rareparts.bytedesigns.com/ez/rpdef.asp
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Second Chance SS - Please do send me measurements of your pitman arm.
I will follow up on the lead with rareparts, thanks.

Bluefishgary - I already have a lot of photos of the PS cars, thanks.
 
OK, overall is 6 3/4"
Center to center is 4 3/4"
Offset 3/4"
All these are with a tape measure so they are close...
It also has the part number cast into it 5693762A
Classic Muscle in NC shows they have them new...$80 + shipping.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?userwatch~dynamicSearchPage~cadeiijd#pdf type the part number into the box and click search. It will show a pic
Pic of the arm and part number and 1 of the center link with the wheels turned full right...


 
Forgot to look at my center link. It is a Rare Parts piece and looks very much like the replacements you already have that don't fit. My car is a May 66 build and the Rare Parts link looks identical to what's on the car.

Have you heard back from Rare Parts about rebuilding yours ?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Second Chance SS - Thanks for the info. Based on the measurements and the links/photos you sent I have confirmed that I do have the correct pitman arm.

The mystery remains, why doesn't the center link fit? I talked to rare parts and their guy (Ted) told me that they have "better quality" in their parts line and their center link would probably fit. He suggested that I send the old center link (that fits) to them so he can compare with the replacement part they have, if it fits he will ship that part to me, if not they have the capability to rebuild the old center link.

This is what I'm going to do after I give a local fabrication shop (a friend owns) a shot at rebuilding my old center link.

I would still like to know why, I have confirmed that I have a 67 Chevelle/El Camino frame, replaced the steering box and idler arm with correct (confirmed) parts, yet the replacement center link I buy from trusted sources does not fit. I think that the aftermarket production of the center link has incorporated a variance in dimension that in some cases does not fit. Any ideas?
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Still struggling with this.

The local fab shop ruined the original center link. The owner is my friend, and a pretty sensible guy, unfortunately the mechanic he gave it to for disassembly just ground down the swedge fit, there's no metal left to swedge in a new ball stud if I could find them.

I will try rare parts, but I want to revisit the pitman arm (since it is only part I haven't changed).

Does anyone know with certainty that the PS pitman arm will bolt on to the manual steering pitman shaft?

What is the offset of the PS pitman arm?
Below you see that Second Chance measure 3/4" offset for the manual arm.
Using a tape measure I get about the same, but I'm concerned about the accuracy of our two measurements, especially when my interference is only about 1/8".
 
PS and manual arms do not interchange. The spline is different. Here's a pic of mine with the new Rare Parts center link and Moog idler arm. It is a tad lower than the original but still has 3/16ths clearance thru the full travel.

 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Re: 67 El Camino - Drag Link - Finally Installed!!!

Finally got my center link installed. The problem was - no problem.

The answer to the mystery is the link bar rises about a 1/4" as steering turns from full right turn to center. This is because the pitman arm and idler arm are slightly angled to the imaginary horizontal plane.

This rise was just the clearance I needed, but couldn't see when test fitting the center link. I had to bolt it in and turn the wheel to see it move.
 

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'Bout time you got that in.....:D

Next thing you find will be the inner tie rod heads hit the oil pan on a BBC. I have a conversion pan on a Gen V block, so a Mark IV may not touch. They just scratch the paint on a full turn, so I ignore it...:yes:


Get that puppy running so you can drive it this summer...:beers:
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Thanks SS

I have the MK IV block w/stock oil pan, it looks tight but it will clear.

Next on the list is to finish drilling out the bolt I broke in the trans rear mount. My brother is going to bring his drill press over and we are going to try and wrestle it into position to drill it it straight through.

Other than some brake lines, only a few small details and the 454 engine will be ready to go in.

Looking forward to summer cruising again.
 
If you can get the bolts out of the tailhousing without breaking them, it would be a lot easier to hold that than the whole trans. We have major issues with rust and corrosion here, so I don't know what you are dealing with. If it is fairly clean, try some penetrating oil for a few days before drilling and use a left handed bit. Turn the press down very slow and the bit may bite into the broken bolt and thread it right out. It has worked for me a few times.
 
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