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the sec vacuum pod springs won't affect the kind of stumble he's talking about. It won't be doing anything at all till close to 3000 RPM.

These carb problems are very consistent about turning into timing issues.
Tom I agree. Just adding something else to be sure of. These old used carbs are like old ladies. Lots of lipstick masking what's inside :D.

Also consistent with a vacuum leak.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Once again, stupid question but where will the vacuum secondary spring be located? :clonk:

I should have a couple hours this afternoon to play with it and I will check for movement in the accelerator pump at WOT, and double check for any vacuum leaks. If I can I will figure out the spring colour.
 
Steve, may sound silly but are all the vacuum outlets capped. a very small one under the front bowl to the left. it got me. Try backing off the timing a few degrees for street driving 18 inisial sound high to me. My mix screws are slightly more open at 1 1/4 turns out.:beers:
 
Once again, stupid question but where will the vacuum secondary spring be located? :clonk:
If I can I will figure out the spring colour.

Passenger side near rear of carb. It has the 4 screws and cap. MAYBE yours has the quick change feature??

Before you spend too much time on this, focus on vacuum leaks and ignition as your problem has characterisstics of thise areas and accelerator pump circuit problems.
 
yeah, don't take the sec vacuum pod apart without a good reason.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Steve, may sound silly but are all the vacuum outlets capped. a very small one under the front bowl to the left. it got me. Try backing off the timing a few degrees for street driving 18 inisial sound high to me. My mix screws are slightly more open at 1 1/4 turns out.:beers:
Passenger side near rear of carb. It has the 4 screws and cap. MAYBE yours has the quick change feature??

Before you spend too much time on this, focus on vacuum leaks and ignition as your problem has characterisstics of thise areas and accelerator pump circuit problems.
yeah, don't take the sec vacuum pod apart without a good reason.
I thought i had all of the vacuum parts plugged off, there is one off of the metering block toward the passenger side, and then a small one right at the base of the carb that angles towards the passenger side which I have hooked to my vacuum advance. Then there is a port at the back which I have T`d off to my brake booster and PCV valve which goes to the driver's side valve cover. Am I doing something wrong? :confused:

I am about to head out right now and start checking for any vacuum leaks
 
I'm with Tom...don't take that vacuum canister apart if you don't have to or you'll buy at least 2 new diaphragms, if you're anything like me. :D

How much vacuum advance is your distributor putting in? Have you tried running it capped off?
 
Sometimes a vac leak can be from an intake manifold for example not sealed properly.

However....I really think your problem is related to the accelerator pump circuit. A 31 squirter isnt bad. Id be experimenting with different pump cams to see if it helps any.

Timing as mentioned should also be checked, but if its a lean stumble.....Id play with the accelerator pump circuit.

FYI....dont have your brake booster and PCV valve on the same vacuum source. PCV is a constant vacuum leak, which means your brake booster is never getting as strong as a vacuum signal as it could.

You'll have better brakes if the brake booster is isolated to its own vac source.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Okay cool, the brakes really aren't too bad right now, but I will pick up some extra hose and fittings and do that this weekend.

So could the vacuum loss through the PCV explain what seems like a vacuum leak problem with the carb?
 
no, but Greg is right about the power booster. never T it in with a vacuum leak. The PCV goes on the tube on the back of the baseplate. PB is usually on a fitting in the manifold itself. most Chevies have it on a fitting on top of the #8 intake runner right behind the carb. Sometimes Holleys need a spacer to clear it.
 
Steve, The vacuum advance, is it plugged or to a timed port or full vacuum. You mention 18* at idle. If you are using vacuum advance to a full vacuum port the timing may be too high and the motor cause to surge or fluctuate and backfire. 18* to 36* @ 3600 those number sound like a distributor with no vacuum advance.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
The vacuum advance is hooked to the small vacuum port on the front of the carb, almost right at the base, it comes out the front, angled slightly towards the passenger side.
 
The vacuum advance is hooked to the small vacuum port on the front of the carb, almost right at the base, it comes out the front, angled slightly towards the passenger side.
Do you notice if the engine jumps every time you plug the vacuum line?
Those are the numbers I'm using on my dist. that is all mechanical.
 
Steve, The vacuum advance, is it plugged or to a timed port or full vacuum. You mention 18* at idle. If you are using vacuum advance to a full vacuum port the timing may be too high and the motor cause to surge or fluctuate and backfire. 18* to 36* @ 3600 those number sound like a distributor with no vacuum advance.
Nah it wont be too much. I run 16 initial, and wish I could run more, but the weight/center combo I used gives me 20 degrees advance, for a total of 36(which is what it seems to like).

Id like 18 or 20 initial. BUT...when I plug in the vac advance, to full manifold(which is how I keep it), once the car starts, its north of 30 degrees at idle. with vac and mechanical mixed together.

That port on the pass side near the base is full manifold and you're good to keep using it.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Good news, went out to the track last night for some test and tune to try and get the bog figured out. After a couple easy passes and help from a few knowledgeable, real helpful guys we have it almost dead on now! We took the fuel bowls up a little bit. I adjusted them to where i could just see fuel, and some sloshed out when I rocked the car, it needed to be raised a little bit. Idle mixture screws are now at 1.25 turns out, and we went up one step for the accelerator pump cam. we also dropped my initial timing to 17 initial which it seems to like better :thumbsup: The car ended up running a 13.87@ 99.24mph.

Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it!

And Louis, yes the motor does jump when I plug the vacuum line. I am going to pick up some extra vacuum line today and fix my brake booster line.

Thanks a lot guys!:thumbsup:
 
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