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Planning on cutting/rubbing old laquer paint job-need tips

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propest

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
hi, i am guessing its a 15+ year old paint job that needs a shine. looking at the paint, it was never finished after it was sprayed. i've done my tests and im pretty sure its a laquer repaint. a new paint job is in the future so i am going to wetsand what i have for now. since its not too bad i am thinking of hand wet sanding starting w/ 1000g then 1500g & finally 2kG. will machine w/ perfect-it compund, then machine polish. am i on the right track? any tips/advice?
thx, john.
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
also, i am concerned about paint thickness, i dont want to over do it and go through. no thin areas but i dont want to find them the hard way.
 
#3 ·
You won't know how thick it is. You can only guess someone put on three coats. And if it's metallic with no clear it will blotch when you distrupt it. Ever see cut and buffed lacquer that is blotchy? Especially one where one layer is cut through to the previous one?
 
#6 ·
Put 3/4" masking tape on corners and edges before you sand, then sand and buff, at the very end pull the tape and lightly buff edges . If your gone na burn through it will be on an edge or peak. This will help prevent this
 
#7 ·
Uh, Mulsanne Blue is a metallic color...
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
it was repainted w/ something close, i do not see any mettalic in the repaint work. they didnt do the jambs or the under side of the deck lid. the color difference is min.
 
#9 ·
Wet sand with your 1000 and then wash the car before heading to the 1500. Wash between each step or you'll have the contaminates from your previous grit on the car. The buffer needs to spin off an edge and not into an edge. You can buff off an edge for quite some time. You can buff into an edge for about 5 seconds before you remove/burn all the pant off it. Don't sand any where that you can't buff or you'll be down there by hand trying to bring it back to shiny.
 
#11 ·
It really depends on how much orange peel you have in the paint. If your paint is pretty rough you should start with 1000 so you cut the paint flat quickly. I've used 600 to start just so I wouldn't be there all day. Not sure what you mean by the blotchy look but the only time it would look blotchy to me is when you haven't used the first stage of rubbing compound evenly. Buff it with your compound, wash car, change to new pad (foam) and use the glaze. Glaze it twice if you want and you might have to give it a hand wax job at the end to get it perfect. Don't linger on the hood because you want it to be extra good there cuz that's how you burn through.
 
#14 ·
Hi John , I would do small section low where it cant be noticed to see how it turns out. Laquer is alot softer then todays paints so start with 1500 ,then step up to 2000. you shouldnt have to go higher then that starting light with a wool pad .Im sold on system one. you can use it through all steps of buffing and when used right , no swirl marks. just my 2 cents.good luck
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
hi, heres where i'm at; started w/ 1500G, then 2000. purfect-it II, had to go over it twice, then polished w/ hand glaze, then wax. looks pretty damn good now! I only did the car from the 'beltline' up. so my question is- what about the lower portion of the car? i would like to hit it with something by hand and not machine and i am done w/ wetsanding. is there something out there that will shine up the paint i can rub on/rub off? rubbing compound? or whats a good product for that. thanks for the help, the paint so far is waaay better than before.
 
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propest
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