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Project WidowMaker - The Build Thread

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#341 ·
You're killing me. The ass end looks amazing with the watts in there and when all the body work and chrome is done I'm sure your extra effort will pay off. It's the small things that most people don't notice that make the biggest difference.

Keep it up!! My budget is tapped so nothing new for a while. I'm living vicariously through you and Derek.
 
#342 ·
The WidowMaker said:
i purchased my rst from them directly, so i had a receipt and just paid the difference. im not sure they would do that if i had purchased from somebody else. i would think they would upgrade your rst if you paid the shipping both ways.

the sprung hub was a 45-60 day deal on the rxts. he made it sound as if it would be select applications and not all of the rxts would get upgraded. he just said to check with them before i installed it and if there was an update they would take care of it. again, much easier for me since im just a few minutes away.

oh, and thanks for the info on the quicktime. i think thats what im going to end up doing.

Tim
Click to expand...
Thanks Tim. I had my buddy who is a WD for Mcleod order it for me direct from McLeod; I'll work the return/upgrade through him. :)
 
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Discussion starter · #343 ·
Thanks Tim. I had my buddy who is a WD for Mcleod order it for me direct from McLeod; I'll work the return/upgrade through him.
Click to expand...
i should have asked specifically if this was a normal deal for them to upgrade the uninstalled units. i didnt ask because it seemed like it was. let me know how yours turns out.
 
Discussion starter · #344 ·
well i wanted to be done with the bumper months ago, and i really thought i would finish it today, but nope. i got the corners finished up and that was about it. now the quarters are done (except a couple tacks underneath the lip that can be seen in the pics), but i need to finish grinding the welds on the bumper and i still need to fill the jack holes. then i have a few more welds to grind on the valance and it should be done. i will make sure a fit the bumper a couple times when blocking the car and make sure the fitment doesnt change very much. there are a couple areas that can be touched up a little. i will also decide how to make the exhaust exit at a later time.

i also took a couple pictures of the newest and final arm on the wipers and another of how it mounts under the fender. i made this arm almost twice as thick where the bearings mount, but the rest is the same. the extra thickness allowed me to retain one bearing with the snap ring, but the second is retained when it is all bolted together. this extra width improved stability at least another 50%. its friggin rock solid now. i still never figured out why the dse cam moves as much as it does, but i came up with my own geometry to work around it.

i also called up summit and ordered the quicktime bellhousing part #rm-8020. i had summit price match the best price which i found using the google shopping site. i friggin love them. it even beat summits pro shop price by 20 bucks.

here are a couple pics.

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#346 ·
Tim

I have a question about your wiper motor, was it hard for you to get the right bend in the rods? Also did you use steel rod or stock to lengthen the arms? I have a 67 Chevelle I am relocating the wiper motor under the fender as well.
You do some awesome work by the way, man you car will blow everyone away when you go to a show or anywhere.

Luther
67 Chevelle in progress
 
Discussion starter · #347 ·
I have a question about your wiper motor, was it hard for you to get the right bend in the rods? Also did you use steel rod or stock to lengthen the arms?
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i actually only tweaked the stock linkage a few degrees, but the linkage i put together has no bends. i will take some picutres when i take it apart, but it starts with the ball stud mount you can see in the picture, a little coupler i made to change threads, an 18" aluminum threaded rod, another piece i made and then another ball stud mount that mounts to the motor. it will make more sense with a pic. i thought i would have to bend the rod, but one of the pieces i made solved that problem and made it much stronger at the same time.
 
#349 ·
Tim
I have been following along since the beginning and I must say you do truly amazing work. Every time I check in I am greeted with more quality craftsmanship! You are an inspiration to all that want to build there own car.
Thanks for the inspiration and ideas for my 71 that I am currently curing cancer on one panel at a time! You will truly have one bad azz car!
 
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Discussion starter · #350 ·
thanks for all the comments guys!

i finally got the bumper finished! this has been the most difficult project to date, and it will still need a lot of work when i get the car painted. i really wish i could have sucked the "wings" in a little more or extended the quarters as that would have helped with the illusion created by the depth difference. although the gap measures the same all the way across (+/- .010), the gap at the edges appear larger. its friggin killing me! but i think with color the issue will disappear. i debated actually making the sides smaller but the illusion changes depending on shadows. with the sun to the rear of the car everything actually looks as it measures.

i also got the quicktime bellhousing today. i was really suprised to see the block plate, or lack there of. the mcleod is a solid plate with about a 6" dia hole in the center. the quicktime is about a 1" perimeter strip and some more plate that covers the oil pan and thats it. i have a feeling they use the flywheel to keep material from going into the engine, but that doesnt really make me feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside :noway:. i'll call them tomorrow and see what they say. i saved 14lbs though. 27 vs 41. i have a feeling i'll more than make up for that with the larger magnum.

the radiator also shipped last week. mike at musclerodz is the man. i'll take some pics when it gets here.

im going to spend the next couple days cleaning up the trunk lid a little. the gaps need a little more work and the weather stripping channels need some work as well. then i have to pick up some doors and get the sheet metal all fit.

the new quicktime housing......

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Discussion starter · #351 ·
so the radiator shipped out last week and showed up today. a huge thank you for mike at muscle rodz. he was great to work with and his prices are by far the cheapest ive found. for those that have followed, i stressed about the ron davis/prc decision for a long time. i was actually willing to pay the extra money (~$250) for the rd quality welding, but once i decided on an internal oil cooler the decision was made for me. prc was $85 extra and rd was about $800 extra. plus, prc would build whatever i needed for the same charge, and that included welding on the tabs on the side.

im actually really impressed with the welding. could it be nicer? yep. but id still give it an 8.5 out of 10 and considering the linear amount of welding, the quality is VERY good. its going to be a little while before i weld up the mounts for it, but its here and i can mark the purchase off my list.

i also rolled the car out for a few more finished pics of the rear. i now need to decide what im going to do for exhaust. it is set up to exit at the outer black oval, just not sure how im going to do it yet. i was hoping that the area would be flat, but that was wishful thinking. im kicking around some ideas, but i would love to hear some opinions.

oh, and just so you guys can see im not crazy. check out the last few inches of the bumper to quarter on the left side of the car. you can see how just a little is shaded, but that part appears like the gap is larger. the entire sides do that when they are completely shaded and its driving me friggin NUTS. put it in the light and it goes away..........

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#353 ·
Tim,
You gotta get that thing on the road so all those little things stop driving you crazy! Looking amazing for sure!
Tom
 
#354 ·
The WidowMaker said:
thanks for all the comments guys!

i finally got the bumper finished! this has been the most difficult project to date, and it will still need a lot of work when i get the car painted. i really wish i could have sucked the "wings" in a little more or extended the quarters as that would have helped with the illusion created by the depth difference. although the gap measures the same all the way across (+/- .010), the gap at the edges appear larger. its friggin killing me! but i think with color the issue will disappear. i debated actually making the sides smaller but the illusion changes depending on shadows. with the sun to the rear of the car everything actually looks as it measures.

i also got the quicktime bellhousing today. i was really suprised to see the block plate, or lack there of. the mcleod is a solid plate with about a 6" dia hole in the center. the quicktime is about a 1" perimeter strip and some more plate that covers the oil pan and thats it. i have a feeling they use the flywheel to keep material from going into the engine, but that doesnt really make me feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside :noway:. i'll call them tomorrow and see what they say. i saved 14lbs though. 27 vs 41. i have a feeling i'll more than make up for that with the larger magnum.

the radiator also shipped last week. mike at musclerodz is the man. i'll take some pics when it gets here.

im going to spend the next couple days cleaning up the trunk lid a little. the gaps need a little more work and the weather stripping channels need some work as well. then i have to pick up some doors and get the sheet metal all fit.

the new quicktime housing......

Image


Image
Click to expand...
On my LS2 using a McLeod bellhousing, I had to cut the block plate to get it to clear my Autokraft pan rail. The Quicktime looks like it would clear with no issues. That my be the reason they designed it that way.
 
#355 ·
Tim what about having the exhaust exits emulate the rear tail lights in the lower valance panel
 
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#356 ·
steveracer33 said:
Tim what about having the exhaust exits emulate the rear tail lights in the lower valance panel
Click to expand...
...or maybe those flat, wide tailpipes. One on each side of the license plate and nearly as wide as the whole valence, or at least the middle part of the valence. That way they would be below the valence, but not hang down too low.
 
#357 ·
On the rear exhaust, I've gotta just say I don't care for round. Everything on a '70 chevelle is square or rectangular in the rear. Really, it's only the front headlights that are round on the whole car.

A large rectangle might be good, even an elongated oval - but the 2 round holes in the valance make it look too much like the 71 or 72 rear lights - some like it, some don't. But I think it would look odd on the rear of a '70 that already has the rectangular rear taillight.

If it were me, I would do a large oval or rectangular cut right where you have the holes - but since it's got good surface area I wouldn't make the holes as large as the round ones. Maybe something the size of the taillight opening, but half as tall.

Whatever you end up with, even if you decide on round, I'm sure it will look great.

Edit: Ok, for some reason the idea of the cowl induction flapper, but for the exhaust outlets, just popped into my head. Kind of different, probably difficult to make work, but I had to post it. It might look pretty trick when the car was off, and it might help keep the exhaust grunge off the rear bumper and lights when running.
 
Discussion starter · #359 ·
thanks for all the suggestions. im kind of thinking something like jcg's camaro build. i would most likely do a full hole and not a half moon due to how the lower valance is set up.

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