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BB_Mike

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My crappy chrome water neck sprung a leak about 2 weeks ago. I finally have a replacement steel unit and the time to fix it.

How do I clean off the yucky radiator baked to the manifold? Without pealing the paint from the block
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--My pretty new motor is getting more ugly by the day.. darn daily driving
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Member of TC Superfreind's society for goodness and camaraderie.
BB414, TH400, 3.73 Eaton posi,
13.16sec @ 105.15 MPH (TH400 needs clutch pack, Radial T/As = zero traction)
" Don't worry about the world coming to an end today. It's already tomorrow in Australia"
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff
Video of me staging (smoke of course)
 
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There is an acid based aluminum cleaner that will clean it right up. Called "Mag Cleaner" as it is used to clean wheels. Now, you need to be careful not to get it on POLISHED aluminum or you will need a metal polish to reshine that as this stuff will dull the polished finish in a few seconds. I take damp towels and cover my valve covers and use a foam brush to put the cleaner where I want it.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28
 
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Mike,

I must've had one from the same batch, mine let go in September. It had a weak casting on the inside that produced just a little pin hole. I had a party at my house in September, had a few Chevelle guys over, wound up in the garage, lifted my hood and WHAT!!! My intake was swimming in coolant, started the engine and it started shooting straight up in the air out of the thermostat housing.

Enough of that, what I use to clean most everything on the Chevelle is "Simple Green" in varying concentrations. Straight strength for stubborn dirt, diluted for mild stains. You may have to scrub a little, just be sure to rinse it off completely or it will leave white residue.

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Joe Giniel"My 72 SS"
TC #143 Gold
ACES #3056
 
There is some stuff you can get at autobody
shops called Final Clean. It is made for cleaning/degreasing primer before painting. It will in no way harm paint, but is a great degreaser. I'm not sure about burned on anti-freeze. Might be worth a try. As far as cleaning aluminum, regular old WD-40 and a wire brush or cloth works great.
 
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BBM,

I use Simple Green to clean my intake and engine compartment. Wet the surface, squirt on some (not diluted), do some scrubbing with a nylon brush or toothbrush for tight areas and rinse off.

I race dirt bikes and if this stuff will get off North Carolina red clay and not harm my race bike. I knew it work on my car. Ok, the wifes car.

Bill67

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Been into dirt bikes forever and new to muscle cars. 67 2-dr Chevelle, 350/350, posi, rallys.
 
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The best way to do aluminum intake manifolds in a way that they stay good looking and are easy to clean is to clear coat them. Take the manifold off the engine, clean it with GM Wire Wheel cleaner (an acid), lightly sand blast it (not on gasket surfaces)to bring out the sparkle. Then paint it with a quality automotive acrylic enamel clear coat paint. Looks good, smooth (easy to clean) resists coolant and fuel and lasts for years. We do it all the time.
 
Clear laquer and spray bomb clear will yellow. You shouldn't have that problem with any of the modern catylist activated enamels used to clear coat the exterior of the vehicle. I use PPG products.But keep in mind that if you have fuel standing on the paint for a prolonged period you will have softening, peeling and discoloration.
 
I had good results using paint stripper and #0000 steel wool. After rinsing all that off, scrubbing with Brillo pads (manifold off the engine).

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575

[This message has been edited by von (edited 11-23-2000).]
 
You can clean it with power clean sold at parts stores. You can paint it with Eastwoods alumablast spray can paint. Works great. Or you can bc/cc silver with clear. Also looks excellent. The latter of the 2 is the way I go.
 
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