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rsb5772

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a Vortec 350 from a '96 truck and a 350 from a '73 Nova. Which block would be the better of the two, to build on for my truck? As far as I have read, the "Vortec" only refers to the heads, and the only difference in the blocks is the rear main seals. Are there any other differences in the blocks? I haven't dropped the pan on the truck motor, so I'm not sure about the number of main cap bolts. Any help would be appreciated!
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the vortec block may not be capable of running a manual fuel pump .
the lifter bosses are taller ,and has the capability of running roller cams without a cam button because they use a cam lock plate..

oil pans do not interchange neither do the ballancers or flexplates...at least i think the ballancers do not ...I actually see nothing wrong with either if they are both in good shape..if you plan on running a roller cam and an electric fuel pump go with the newer block
 
theres guys are right on!

the balancers will be the same, but the flexplate IS different- one piece rear seal cranks run a counterbalance on the flexplate...87-98. If you plan on a roller cam, by all means use the vortec block! they locate the cam PROPERLY with a lock plate, and you can use the factory style rollers and hold down 'spider'......which is a LOT cheaper than a retro-roller setup for an older block. Its most likely a 2 bolt block, but youll be fine unless youre going to go BIG power or shoot it with a large amount of spray.
Also- that vortec motor probably has the powdered metal rods in it.....
rumour has it that they will hold 500hp and 7000rpms, however....unlike a factory rod that will usually twist or bend if you overdo it, the PM rods will just shatter. If you use them, scribe the numbers in the rods, DONT stamp them, and DONT grind on them! they should be close enough for a decent balance job and you can 'cheat' the small end by playing with piston and pin weight..........if the shop knows what theyre doing.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
theres guys are right on!

the balancers will be the same, but the flexplate IS different- one piece rear seal cranks run a counterbalance on the flexplate...87-98. If you plan on a roller cam, by all means use the vortec block! they locate the cam PROPERLY with a lock plate, and you can use the factory style rollers and hold down 'spider'......which is a LOT cheaper than a retro-roller setup for an older block. Its most likely a 2 bolt block, but youll be fine unless youre going to go BIG power or shoot it with a large amount of spray.
Also- that vortec motor probably has the powdered metal rods in it.....
rumour has it that they will hold 500hp and 7000rpms, however....unlike a factory rod that will usually twist or bend if you overdo it, the PM rods will just shatter. If you use them, scribe the numbers in the rods, DONT stamp them, and DONT grind on them! they should be close enough for a decent balance job and you can 'cheat' the small end by playing with piston and pin weight..........if the shop knows what theyre doing.
Thanks for the info! Picking a shop to build it, isn't too easy. Everyone swears by the shop they used.
 
Some of the later ones are also 4 bolt. If you know the vehicle they came in, it is pretty easy-should be any 3/4 or 1-ton suburban, chev/gmc truck, or express van.
 
im using a vortec 350
it has 4 bolt maint, factory roller cam set up, 1pc rear seal, mechanical fuel pump boss drilled

its a great motor run it!

aaron
 
mine blew a head gasket (had L98 alum heads on it with TPI), but it is an 880 vortec block.
i had it decked anyways, and bored.

just make sure it has the hole drilled for the fuel pump push rod, or you would have to run an electric pump.

i like my motor a lot.

aaron
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I already have an electric pump that I plan on using, because I hope to eventually have some type of forced induction, but for now, I want to get it built and on the street. It's going in a '57 truck that I'm going to be grafting on a Nova clip on this coming week!
 
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