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Nolowrider

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
my ride is hard to start after hot/warm.. Errrrrrr. I have did everything I can think of. Re-routed fuel lines away from any heat source, checked the transfer slots, checked accelerator pump. I turn off the fuel pump before I shut her down to relieve any fuel pressure (running 5 psi). I leave my electric fans on to keep air flowing under the hood. I am just out of ideas. Def. not heat soak on the starter, she turns over fine, got to fuel related. Maybe I 'll change the plugs again, I don't know. No over heat problems, runs 180 on the dot. The only thing I have not done yet is adjust my Holley non-adjustable floats. Runs awesome after she starts. Please suggst something, starting to pizz me off. :yes:

BBC 468
(2) 600 cfm Holley's, vacuum sec.
 
#2 ·
lower the floats little, it might be boiling over after shut-off, lowered float level will help.

When it does restart after the problem does it act like it's flooded?

Is that a tunnel ram? what is it with two Holleys?
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Tom Mobley said:
lower the floats little, it might be boiling over after shut-off, lowered float level will help.

When it does restart after the problem does it act like it's flooded?

Is that a tunnel ram? what is it with two Holleys?
Click to expand...
Yes sir, Mr. Tom. It is a T-ram, so I don't think the fuel bowls are getting hot. They stick out of the hood. Plus today was about 40 degrees, plenty of cold air to keep the cool. It does it in cold weather or hot weather. Guess I should have given more specs. Just think it is carb related.

Yes, sir. Seems like she is flooding.

I guess I will lower the floats. I just don't have a sight glass to give the bump check.
 
#4 ·
possible there's excessive fuel pressure, push fuel by the needle/seats after shutoff. any pressure gauge in the system?
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Tom Mobley said:
possible there's excessive fuel pressure, push fuel by the needle/seats after shutoff. any pressure gauge in the system?
Click to expand...
Yes, sir. Shows 5 psi when the Edelbrock electric fuel pump on. Also have a dead head regulator. Maybe a return regulator will help. Guess I could drop it to about 4 psi and see what happends. Thank you.

I usually turn off the pump well beore I shut the engine off. Like 50 yards before my destination.
 
#6 ·
yeah, you said that and I forgot. I'm grasping at straws here because the usual suspects seem to have been covered.

I think it's random passing cosmic rays doing it. Wrap the car in tin foil, that'll fix it.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
I just pulled the fuel bowl off and I just don't see any room to adjust the float. When the bowl is off and upside down, the float tab is already touching the needle and seat. Don't see that I can adjust the float lower. This sucks.

Thanks for your help. Tom. I may look into converting it to an adjustable type.

Thanks again.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Andy69 said:
is fuel leaking from the bowls into the intake, perhaps?
Click to expand...
Don't think so. I just pulled the air cleaner, turn on the fuel pump and looked down the carb. Didn't see any fuel leaking.

BlueSS454 said:
Is the timing too far advanced?
Click to expand...
Locked out at 36*. Please excuse my ignorance, and I am not questioning your knowledge, but how would too much timing give me the problem I am having? Please school me. I, in no way claim to know everything. I learn something everyday. I didn't think about too much timing. But, I am open to any advice. I have a MSD Digital E-curve dist.This is a great site with a wealth of knowledge. Thank you.
 
#14 ·
Pull a couple of plugs and see if they are wet and smell like gas.
I know you said they are fairly new but this won't take but a minute.
All that working on it and you might have fouled the new set.
Not real hard to foul them.
I went through 3 sets before I got the dizzy the way it needed to be and the timing in right. Had the same gas smell real bad.
No problems at all now but I did replace the dizzy with one made for my engine (got tired of trying to adjust the innards and not knowing how) and new plugs. I also adjusted the accelerator pump. It was tightened all the way down on a new carb. Set it at .015 I believe.
Best of luck.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
hpsherlin said:
Pull a couple of plugs and see if they are wet and smell like gas.
I know you said they are fairly new but this won't take but a minute.
All that working on it and you might have fouled the new set.
Not real hard to foul them.
I went through 3 sets before I got the dizzy the way it needed to be and the timing in right. Had the same gas smell real bad.
No problems at all now but I did replace the dizzy with one made for my engine (got tired of trying to adjust the innards and not knowing how) and new plugs. I also adjusted the accelerator pump. It was tightened all the way down on a new carb. Set it at .015 I believe.
Best of luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you Herbie. I will do that tomorrow. Atleast I will be able to rule them out. I have not changed the plugs in a while.

Took the day off from stressing out about it. Played golf today:yes:
 
#16 ·
good idea.

thought about a half hour or hour check? drive it, get it good and warmed up, park, pull the air filter so you can see the booster venturiis. look at the boosters and throttle plates. go away for 5 minutes, go back and check, another 5, etc, etc. If there were sight plugs, you could pull them and see if the level drops.

don't sweat the fuel level too much. remember, they were set from the factory and it's unlikely they have changed. On that, here's a little tip or whatever: Carbs that don't have externally adjustable floats rarely or never need the floats adjusted. Carbs that have external adjustments, guys are constantly jacking around with them..... Holley should have eliminated those adjusters on most carbs 40 years ago.


Do the carbs have metering blocks or jet plates? I had a 4 bbl that about drove me crazy one time. THe secondary jet plate was bent on one of the lower corners. It allowed the fuel bowl to drain very slowly through the secondary idle discharge orifices. That's below the throttle plates and nor visable from the top. I'm pretty sure that is where some of my gray hair came from. It was on the first 496 I ever built, in a big motor home and the engine cover was a real PITA to get off.
 
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#17 ·
Nolowrider said:
my ride is hard to start after hot/warm.. Errrrrrr. I have did everything I can think of. Re-routed fuel lines away from any heat source, checked the transfer slots, checked accelerator pump. I turn off the fuel pump before I shut her down to relieve any fuel pressure (running 5 psi). I leave my electric fans on to keep air flowing under the hood. I am just out of ideas. Def. not heat soak on the starter, she turns over fine, got to fuel related. Maybe I 'll change the plugs again, I don't know. No over heat problems, runs 180 on the dot. The only thing I have not done yet is adjust my Holley non-adjustable floats. Runs awesome after she starts. Please suggst something, starting to pizz me off. :yes:

BBC 468
(2) 600 cfm Holley's, vacuum sec.
Click to expand...
Are you saying it has touble cranking over against compression?

This could be caused by the earlt timing. If so, adda kill switch and don't turn it on until it is cranking over.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
johnretired said:
Are you saying it has touble cranking over against compression?

This could be caused by the earlt timing. If so, adda kill switch and don't turn it on until it is cranking over.
Click to expand...
No. Turns over fine. Def think it is fuel related. I think I will relocate my coil just to rule out overheating the coil.

Thank you.
 
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Nolowrider
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