I just got back my block and crank from the machinist. He said i probably didn't need to clean it buy i want to anyway since it sat aroudn for awhile, i was thinking of using mineral spirits in a spray bottle and spray everything down, and then either wipe it off or use compressed air to blow if off. What should i use to dry if off? something that won't leave lint? any better ideas?
What should i use to clean fresh block and crank??
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cody
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I just got back my block and crank from the machinist. He said i probably didn't need to clean it buy i want to anyway since it sat aroudn for awhile, i was thinking of using mineral spirits in a spray bottle and spray everything down, and then either wipe it off or use compressed air to blow if off. What should i use to dry if off? something that won't leave lint? any better ideas?
Cody,
Mineral spirits, or anything petroleum based, is the WORSE thing to use on a fresh block, especially on the bores. The best thing to use is dishwashing soap (such as Dawn) and hot water. Use a toilet brush to scrub the bores till they are clean enough to lick. Same with the rest of the block. Then blow it totally dry with air. If it is going to sit for a while before you put it together, wipe some clean oil on the bores with a lint free cloth and cover it up. If you are going to paint the block, do it as soon as you are finished drying it off, that way there is no oil from assembly etc to keep the paint from sticking.
As far as the crank goes...soap and water again or brake cleaner. The brake cleaner does not leave any residue and dries off good. Make sure and run some brushes or pipe cleaners through all the oil holes. No matter how clean it looks from the machine shop...believe me it is still filthy.
From the Hastings web site: "The single most critical factor of any cylinder refinishing job is the cleaning of that cylinder after the honing operation.
It can be stated, pistons, rings, and cylinder bores will forgive slight variations in roughness, cross hatch angle, etc. No engine component will tolerate dirt!
Honing cylinders leaves two types of "dirt" on the cylinder wall, honing stone residue, and cast iron dust. If not removed before the engine is reassembled, the world’s finest lapping compound is waiting to destroy all the hard work of assembly the instant the engine is started.
Proper cylinder cleaning consists of a thorough scrubbing of the block with hot, soapy water taking care to clean the surface under the cylinder facing the crankcase. Rinse with hot water, dry, and lightly oil to prevent rust."
Hope this helps,
Mineral spirits, or anything petroleum based, is the WORSE thing to use on a fresh block, especially on the bores. The best thing to use is dishwashing soap (such as Dawn) and hot water. Use a toilet brush to scrub the bores till they are clean enough to lick. Same with the rest of the block. Then blow it totally dry with air. If it is going to sit for a while before you put it together, wipe some clean oil on the bores with a lint free cloth and cover it up. If you are going to paint the block, do it as soon as you are finished drying it off, that way there is no oil from assembly etc to keep the paint from sticking.
As far as the crank goes...soap and water again or brake cleaner. The brake cleaner does not leave any residue and dries off good. Make sure and run some brushes or pipe cleaners through all the oil holes. No matter how clean it looks from the machine shop...believe me it is still filthy.
From the Hastings web site: "The single most critical factor of any cylinder refinishing job is the cleaning of that cylinder after the honing operation.
It can be stated, pistons, rings, and cylinder bores will forgive slight variations in roughness, cross hatch angle, etc. No engine component will tolerate dirt!
Honing cylinders leaves two types of "dirt" on the cylinder wall, honing stone residue, and cast iron dust. If not removed before the engine is reassembled, the world’s finest lapping compound is waiting to destroy all the hard work of assembly the instant the engine is started.
Proper cylinder cleaning consists of a thorough scrubbing of the block with hot, soapy water taking care to clean the surface under the cylinder facing the crankcase. Rinse with hot water, dry, and lightly oil to prevent rust."
Hope this helps,
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924 Posts
My father has been using Lemon Joy for 35ish years. 
Cody, Bill K has good advise for you. Wash the heck out of that block with soap and water. Blow off with an air gun if you have one. Then plan on spending about 1-2 hours of rubbing the inside of each bore with a paper towel soaked in ATF. Use a white paper towel with no printing. Rub, rub, rub. Keep doing each bore until that paper towel stays red with ATF. You will be amazed at how dirty those bores are after you cleaned them with soap and water. Your goal is to run a paper towel down each bore many times and have it come out bright red. Then you know it's clean. Like I said plan on a couple of hours for this job. rb6667
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238 Posts
No problem Re: the cam bearings. I like to shoot high pressure water through the oil galleys, then spray some oil in there. Also, I like to clean the crank with brake cleaner. Not only the passages but the throws and counterweights, too. There is a lot of dirt that can get into the engine from them.
Thanks guys, i pulled out the cam plugs, and got a long bottle brush, i used "joy" soap and cleaned and hosed down the block with a garden hose and used the bottle brush on the cam galleys. I then used compressed air to blow out all water. Man does metal rust instantly! after that i got it completely dry. i then masked off all areas i didn't want painted and installed all of the pipe plugs in the block. then i sprayed it with primer, I really didn't want to give it a chance to collect dust or dirt, but i am going to wait for the primer to dry until tomorrow and i will spray it black. thanks again, also what kind of sealant should I use when i reinstallt the cam galley plugs, they are screw in. thanks again!
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238 Posts
Teflon based thread sealent. I use ARP's stuff (mainly because I have a bunch of it) but most any will do. Keep the first couple threads clean so none gets into the oil. If you don't have an engine bag, a clean large yard bag will help keep dust and other things out. I suggest keeping it bagged at all times when you are not working on it. When you do the pistons, 1 gallon zip bags are excellent for protecting the clean piston/ring/rod assemblies from dirt and dust. The operative words here are clean it and keep it clean
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I finished painting today looks really good, the paint stuck like glue! couldn't be happier, I really took my time taping everything off, it was worth the effort! then i wiped the bores with ATF, it took about three good seperate rubbings to get each bore clean, i was amazed at how dirty they were. I also washed my crank using the bottle brush and soap and water and that came out real clean also. WHat should i use on the pistons and bores when i assemble the motor? oil? quick seat? thanks again!
looks really good, the paint stuck like glue! couldn't be happier, I really took my time taping everything off, it was worth the effort! then i wiped the bores with ATF, it took about three good seperate rubbings to get each bore clean, i was amazed at how dirty they were. I also washed my crank using the bottle brush and soap and water and that came out real clean also. WHat should i use on the pistons and bores when i assemble the motor? oil? quick seat? thanks again!
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238 Posts
I don't know if others will agree with this but I like EOS for coating the rings and lubing the cylinders. It's a bit thicker than oil so it doesn't run off as easily. I also like Clevite's Bearing Guard assembly lube for the bearings. It's thicker than oil and stays put. If you are using floating pins, Torco's red assembley lube is excellent for this.
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7,296 Posts
Cody
I posted on the other board.
Pat's suggestion about Torco MPZ is excellent.
You can get it in a spray can also & it is the best thing going for pins, rockers,pushrods etc. It sprays on real light & turns to a gel in about 30 seconds.
Ditto on the Bearing Guard, great stuff.
As for EOS in the bores, I have to respectfully dissagree. I do not like anything in the bores except ATF or light oil & then only a small amount.
I have also recently started using Total Seal's Quick Seat powder along with ATF & like it real well.
I posted on the other board.
Pat's suggestion about Torco MPZ is excellent.
You can get it in a spray can also & it is the best thing going for pins, rockers,pushrods etc. It sprays on real light & turns to a gel in about 30 seconds.
Ditto on the Bearing Guard, great stuff.
As for EOS in the bores, I have to respectfully dissagree. I do not like anything in the bores except ATF or light oil & then only a small amount.
I have also recently started using Total Seal's Quick Seat powder along with ATF & like it real well.
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