New Cam and Head Combo...WILL IT WORK?

ORratrod · Mar 26, 2009

This is my proposed build...will it work with my setup?
What I have to work with....
454 bored .030 over, 2 bolt main, cast crank
forged domed pistons w/ stock connecting rods(using ARP rod bolts)
*rotating assembly balanced
7/16" pushrods
roller rockers
781 oval heads 2.19/1.88 Manley Valves, fully ported, bronze guides

Current cam- Comp 11-219-4
Proposed cam....Solid Flat Tappet...Magnum XL Oval Track Series
Isky Custom Grind...Int/Ex
Advertised............278/282
Duration at 50.......250/254
Lift................... .617/.629
Valve Lash......... .014/.016
110 centerlobe
Operating Range...2500-6500 RPM
The ramp rate for this cam is 4.93...very aggressive
Seat-to-seat....intake open 29/close 69...exhaust...71/31
To top this cam off I would get the recommended(better oiling) Isky lifters(SO202H) and higher pressure Isky valve springs(8005-A).
This engine will have 10.5 compression, an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake, and I'll have Patrick at Pro Systems build me a carb to fit it.
I used the Dyno 2003 simulation and it predicts an even 591HP / 587TQ when advanced 4 degrees.
FINALLY, THE BIG QUESTION.
Will this combo work? I'm going to be using this on the street and I want something radical but still useable(rpm range)
Will my bottom end of the engine handle the power/torque? Will the top end handle the extra stain?
If you know a thing or two about this(real experience) I would appreciate the feedback.

ORratrod · Mar 26, 2009

If you dont think it will work...what do you think will help without destroying the wallet?

rustbucket79 · Mar 26, 2009

I'd be careful running a "race oriented" cam in a street car. BBC's are the toughest engine on cams and lifters, and aggressive cam profiles, increased spring pressure (which is a requirement for the cam) and idle time associated with street cars doesn't bode well for long cam and lifter life. The Comp XS290S is close in specs, with a less aggressive ramp allowing it to work with less spring pressure. You've got the right idea for lifters, we've used a few sets of them. Although it's a significant cost, I would recommend paying for the Nitriding option for whatever cam you buy. (if it's comp)

427L88 · Mar 26, 2009

Will it work!? IT"LL KILL!!!! Yes YEs and YES!!!!

I run a old skool oval FT cam as well, maybe not as aggressive (276/284 adv, 243/251 @.050) with the same springs and oil bleed tappets in a 427.

The 7/16" pushrods are huge and heavy. Unneccesary.

You MUST break that cam in on outer springs only, straigh 30W and LOTS of EOS. I actually ran around to early season crusies like that for maybe 2-3 engine hours and a 3500 rpm in the MSD. Don't use a Comp FT cam imho. Stick with Isky, Lunati.

Will it work? Ha!

3V Performance · Mar 26, 2009

427L88 said:
Will it work!? IT"LL KILL!!!! Yes YEs and YES!!!!

I run a old skool oval FT cam as well, maybe not as aggressive (276/284 adv, 243/251 @.050) with the same springs and oil bleed tappets in a 427.

The 7/16" pushrods are huge and heavy. Unneccesary.

You MUST break that cam in on outer springs only, straigh 30W and LOTS of EOS. I actually ran around to early season crusies like that for maybe 2-3 engine hours and a 3500 rpm in the MSD. Don't use a Comp FT cam imho. Stick with Isky, Lunati.

Will it work? Ha!

You can NEVER put enough push rod in an engine. Weight is not as important on that side of valvetrain but dia and stiffness are.

ORratrod · Mar 27, 2009

2 questions....will my cast 2 bolt assembly hold up to 600 hp so long as my RPM range is 2500-6500 or will the high torque/horsepower be risky with a stock crank and rods? Also, I dont mind re-adjusting the valve lash every 500 miles, but with something that aggressive will it require even more often than that?

New Cam and Head Combo...WILL IT WORK?

ORratrod

ORratrod

rustbucket79

427L88

3V Performance

ORratrod

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