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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Thanks, Jeff, for hosting my pics for everybody!!

Pic #1 is of the final aluminum bracket before the steel one was fabbed. I'll take pics of the steel one after it is 'done' (this 'is' a work in progress, but it 'will' work)

Pic #2 is just a straight on shot. This ugly unit is just a 'mock-up'. Flaming River advised my '85 mustang unit is the same dimensionally to their new unit. The hard line shown hanging below the sway bar is not present on Flaming River's. I realized today I didn't take clearance pics for the crossmember and oil pan...those will follow later.

Pic #3 shows the steering shaft prior to any steering gear. I'll have all the steering gear installed by next week, and new images will follow.

Pic #4 is a top shot, showing the steering shaft angle, and clearance for headers. It obviously clears my Sanderson cast iron headers nicely. Yes, right now it is almost straight up. I have to have the bracket bent an additional ~10 degrees for my satisfaction (as I said, final work in progress), but I have as of yesterday installed the first u-joint, support bearing, and intermediate shaft, and the angles are fine.

Pic #5 shows the steering curves (note the bumpsteer) on Autoware's Front Suspension Geometry Pro . That's a $140 program I bought last year just for this purpose. I'm glad I'm finally using it, as it has answered a LOT of questions related to where the rack should be, preliminary settings for the adjustable tie-rods, and alignment tips.

I'll keep updating this thread with new pics as things progress...next new pics won't come until after the rest of my steering gear comes (~07/20-25). By then, I'll have the bracket in it's final configuration, with the correct angle.

JR
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Tall F-body spindles.

The 12" brake spindles I have are the same dimensionally, and go on after the frame is dipped. It is those spindles I'll be drilling for the adjustable tie-rod ends.

As I don't have a car to measure, I'm pretty sure that this would work on a stock spindle/stock a-arm setup, though I wouldn't recommend a major steering upgrade/modification w/o upgrading the suspension geometry w/ the tall spindle and tubular upper a-arms at the very least.

For those wondering, the tall spindle conversion was the best thing I ever did for this car...it handled like a BMW in and out of the corners. Despite the 11" discs/rear drums, it still didn't stop well enough for me, so it's getting 12" front discs, and 11" rear discs. I have a post on that process from last year (see my 'recent posts' on my profile). The steering, however, never excited me, even after ALL new components, quick-ratio box, poly bushings, etc. The only thing that kept me from doing this sooner is that it is impossible to do this design work on R&P w/o the front clip being off and steering gear being off...it just took a lot longer to get to this frame-off point than I thought.

JR
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I'm working hard on it, guys. Time has not been a friend this summer.
I have all the steering gear now, and all I have to do is mock up a mounting plate for the spherical support bearings.

That's being done this Saturday, so hopefully I'll have some good pics to post next week.

Fortunately, I think the bracket is going to work just fine, with no cutting/welding of the frame.

I'll keep you posted.

JR
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Ok. Got something accomplished, and now I believe for sure that it's gonna work. I can also now get this damned body off the frame (IF my body guy gets off his duff :mad: )

I've asked JeffK to post a couple more pics. (THANK YOU JEFF!! in advance)

Different views, but you get the jist. No cutting/welding of the frame. Yes, a lot of linkage, but it doesn't bind, and steering wheel 'play' is no more than I'm used to in other R&P vehicles I've driven. I'm confindent that with the support bearings mounted on a 'steel' plate (rather than the aluminum mock up) all will be solid.

The rack mounting bracket pictured earlier in the thread WORKS. It mounts to the front/lower a-arm bolts (which need to be replaced w/ 1/2" longer G8). The linkage support bearing bracket 'mock-up' works as well, but will get refinement after my body comes off and the frame is done. The mock up allows me to match the alignment w/o the column. The rack is mated to the spindles via adjustable rod-end links, which (of the links I ordered) require the spindle be drilled out for the 5/8" mounting boss. The drilled out version is more adjustable than the tapered one.

For those wondering...yes, those Sandersons are getting coated w/ ceramic. I don't think heat will be an issue with the u-joint closest to the front runner.

If anybody wants more info, or pics, let me know.

Once I figure out a 'number', I'll offer a dimensional drawing and a full parts list to those willing to make the 'donation to the cause'. I am NOT seeking to profit!

Fyi, it took me nearly 4 dozen hours to get to the point pictured, and a 5-step manufacturing process (and several hundred $$) to get to the final mounting bracket. It certainly is not something that can be manufactured/packaged/sold (as evidenced by Steeroids dropping our beloved A-body), but I have no doubt it is a viable option to the sloppy/spongy steering I got with all new parts.
Thus, even with plans in-hand, there will be a trial/error method for everybody installing this to get the linkage angles correct. However, the HARD work is done (IMHO).

If I have time, I may want to design an adjustable plate that will make mocking up the linkage easier.

Yes, it 'is' possible to rotate the rack and cut the frame to make the linkage path simpler. Cutting a 3" notch in my frame just didn't make sense to me. 'If' (BIG if) I could justify it, I'd have a custom frame made. Money doesn't grow on trees over here either.

However, note that as I'm in body-restoration mode, and won't be driving this car for quite awhile, I'm more than willing to help anybody get this done on their ride. It CAN be done with front clip on, and engine in.

Just say the word...

Fyi, cost of a 'shop' cutting/bending the 1/4" steel bracket = $70.00
Combined cost of the linkage parts = $630.00, if my math is correct. That does NOT include the rack. Pictured is a yarded rack that is just for mock-up. I am intent on buying Flaming River's Rod R&P after the frame goes back together. PLEASE, no comments on the expense. That old saying applies: "If you want it bad enough..."

Pics will follow (allow time...that 'budget' thing)...

I am 'excited' :D and VERY pleased with the results. I can't wait to drive her again!!!

JR
 
I've followed that Steeroid thing for over a year and they were always 'almost done with it'. Looks like Ike is on his way.

Just in case you are looking for some other racks :eek: check out UNISTEER

Let's see some more pics...
 
Originally posted by FO_FDYFO:
i think it is a ford pinto rack. i cant remember. the bar is welded to the frame, and the car wagon is tubbbed and rides fine with out the front sway bar actually. surprises me too. must be because of the 4 link and coil overs?
Could be. Not going road racing with a pro-street car, anyway, I suppose.
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Ah.
Say, don't you need to update your webpage? The last Resto Status report is March 2002!
I only ask becasue I actually found your page before I got on chevelles.com while looking for big brake/tall spindle stuff. I really enjoyed reading along as the project progressed. Have you actually let the car sit that long, or just too busy to update the web page?
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Originally posted by 70OldsSportsCoupe:
Have you actually let the car sit that long, or just too busy to update the web page?
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Yes and Yes. My last update was when I was doing remodeling on a 1953 ranch I purchased (my first home). I decided to build a new home in summer 2003 and I'm still doing the finishing touches on it now. I should be back to the car this winter. Just getting my new garage setup now
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