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Normal water temp???

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RedAllison

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just bought this car 2 weeks ago so most of the temps it's been driven in are 30s-50ish. Yesterday we had one GORGEOUS day that got up into the upper 60s and even 70 by late afternoon. Normally the car when running/idling in normal in-town traffic in cold weather (A/C off) the water would be in the 160-175 range. Yesterday (A/C off again) the car was running in the 190 range and a few times got 200-210 in stop and go traffic. I shut it off and sat in it for about 15 mins to see what it would do, and the temp climbed too 225-230. Once I fired it back up and drove around again (in town) it pretty much instantly settled back down again too 190. I seem to remember a few times it seemed like the idle picked up when it was getting warmer. Enough in fact that when I shifted it into reverse it barked the tires once. :confused: I keep the fluids topped weekly and the coolant level is proper.

The radiator is a stock replacement (same size/capacity as stock) about 1 year old and the motor is a 72 LS5 454 but has brand new internals, Q-jet as well as a new water pump.

Just curious,
RA
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I can only assume a "stock" shroud (same as in the second pic of my siggy). Tstats I honestly don't know, recon I'll have to yank it and find out.

Assuming everything was replaced "as original" what would be the temps?
RA

ps
Sorry for placing this in the wrong place, still new around here. Admins/Mods please move too Heating/Cooling... sorry. :(
 
#5 ·
160 to 175 is too low of temp. maybe in your freezing temps I guess that may be all you can get. But in 70's temp and running at 190 with a rise to 210 in traffic is not a problem at all. If in summer with say 90's and you start going into the 120's in traffic I would starting worrying. In my climate I'm running 180-190 in 80's and 90's temps. In traffic it may reach 200 but thats about it. Thats with no A/C, no elct. fans, no fan clutch, just a flex fan.
I say your worrying for nothing at this time. I would like to hear what your temp is in 90 degree weather..
 
#6 ·
Heating and Cooling section refers to the A/C and cabin heater/defroster
 
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#7 ·
RedAllison said:
I shut it off and sat in it for about 15 mins to see what it would do, and the temp climbed too 225-230. Once I fired it back up and drove around again (in town) it pretty much instantly settled back down again too 190. Just curious,
RA
Click to expand...

This is normal as well.
With the engine off, the coolant is not circulating, so the engine just gets hotter and hotter.

Once the car is started----the cooler coolant in the radiator starts getting around to the temp sender and the temps drop.
 
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#8 ·
I'd still put a new 190 T-Stat in it. . . . .

Sounds to me that the Stat is stuck open. . .
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks gents, :beers: this is all still new too me with this car. I'm still learning what she wants and what is normal. I'll just watcher through the winter and if by spring she starts regularly getting over 210-220 in normal operation I'll start looking at a new Tstat and possibly even a thicker core aluminum radiator. I can only assume that if all other things are equal it WILL get a bit warmer come July with the A/C turned on but then again I wont be idling in Christmas rush traffic then as well. :sad: But I'll cross that bridge once it's in my path.

:thumbsup:
RA
 
#10 ·
My '71 454 runs around 200 on a hot day and will get to 210 in traffic on a hot day w/ A/C on. Nothing to worry about as long as it stays there (Big Blocks make a lot of heat). Remember a 195 degrees thermostat BEGINS to open at 195. It's not uncommon for temp to get 200 or so before it's fully opened.
 
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#11 ·
mmurphy77 said:
My '71 454 runs around 200 on a hot day and will get to 210 in traffic on a hot day w/ A/C on. Nothing to worry about as long as it stays there (Big Blocks make a lot of heat). Remember a 195 degrees thermostat BEGINS to open at 195. It's not uncommon for temp to get 200 or so before it's fully opened.
Click to expand...
I tried to tell my father-in-law not to worry about his temps. He reports back to me his concern in increments of "ONE DEGREE". LOL!! He did have a bad fan clutch, and now it runs right at 200. But this is on a sbc 66 Nova SS.
 
#12 ·
Showing 225°-230° (heat soaking) on a hot day would seem normal but he's saying it's 70° ,so that does seem a little high.
And
Yesterday we had one GORGEOUS day that got up into the upper 60s and even 70 by late afternoon. Normally the car when running/idling in normal in-town traffic in cold weather (A/C off) the water would be in the 160-175 range.
Click to expand...
Makes it sound like the thermostats sticking intermittently.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Mike said:
Showing 225°-230° (heat soaking) on a hot day would seem normal but he's saying it's 70° ,so that does seem a little high.
And

Makes it sound like the thermostats sticking intermittently.
Click to expand...
Yeah I gotter out yesterday as well. The high was 30-31 so it was cold all day. I noticed a few times the temp did get up too 190 but several times it also ran as low 145-170 and then it might be 190 again shortly. I guess the Tstat IS sticking.

I'll pop in a Tstat for peace of mind, :thumbsup:
RA

ps
That's the ONE thing that sure hasn't seemed to get better with technology, why is it that someone can't invent a better, simpler more reliable Tstat? :confused:
 
#16 ·
My '70 has a 468" BBC, and I had similar concerns. I bought a flexalite modular cooling system, put in a new 190 tstat, and purple ice additive, it dropped maybe 5-10 degrees, and thats it. Running at 3400 RPM on the freeway it creeps up to 200-210 in warm weather, too; and I can also tell when the motor is running hot without even looking at the temp gauge. The engine idles much differently and comes up 100-200 RPM. The shop I got the cooling system from told me if the new setup didnt drop the running temp alot, there's a good chance I might have a cracked valve seat thats heating up the head too much. Not sure if it applys to your car, but I guess it's possible, right?
 
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#17 ·
cracked valve seat? If it has a crack or a leaky head gasket you'll see/smell anti-freeze at the exhaust, constantly lose water, maybe get a hydraulic lock. IMO, they looking for something to excuse the poor results of the stuff they charged you for.

What is a flexalite modular cooling system? Far as I know all they make is cheap fans.
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Modular = complete system. Aluminum radiator, 2 shrouded electric fans, and a fan control module with a thermal probe that you insert into the cooling fins, near the radiator water inlet. BTW, the system works fine. Just because it costs less than a thousand bucks doesn't mean it isn't worth buying, especially when you're a flat rate tech on a budget. It's my understanding that a cracked exhaust valve seat doesnt have anything to do with the cylinder head casting, or head gasket surface. So I don't think you would loose coolant with a cracked seat, nor effect the gasket. If it is my particular problem, I hope it stays together til I can take it apart, before the seat drops out of the head and slides down the valve stem. . .
 
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#19 ·
200-210 is a normal operation temp, amd it's expected to see it climb after shutoff as there is no water circulating but the engine is still heating the water.

Do you realize that modern cars don't even turn on the fans til 230? That's also a normal operating temp.

I don't think you have a problem. On the idle, it's likely that the idle is set a little lean causing slow idle when cold. As the engine warms up to operating temp it speeds up because it's no longer lean.
 
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Tom Mobley
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