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Removing the rear end

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team5150

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to remove and replace the rear end and I am thinking about the best way to move it around as I’m taking it out. I will be doing this by myself so I have to be a little inventive to make it easier on me.

I know about the saddle type frame that someone posted here awhile back, but has anyone used a couple of discs made of plywood bolted onto the axles (like wheels just smaller) and just rolled the whole unit out from under the car ? Maybe even a set of just old rims ? It seems like this would be a good way to maneuver the whole thing after you unbolt the upper arms.

I was thinking of making them just a little larger in diameter than the shock mounts so that I can get the unit down and unbolt the lower arms and then just wheel it out from under the car. It seems like it would make the installation easier as well.

Any thoughts on this approach ?

Thanks !

Tom
 
#2 ·
Tom I think you have an exaggerated idea of how much the entire differential in your car weighs. You will find that whan you get everything unbolted that the case will be relatively easy to remove from the car and its a one man job to pick it up and carry it. I'd be surprised if it weighs more than 100 lbs. Just be sure you have it well supported on a floor jack such that you can lower it to the floor easily.
 
#3 ·
its a one man job to pick it up and carry it.
I'd be surprised if it weighs more than 100 lbs.
Click to expand...
You do have one of those weight-lifting Hernea belts, right?


I will agree that its easy enough to manuver by one person with a floor jack, but lifting the entire assembly? It might not be too heavy, but its awkward... I did it once, but never again (lifting one side at a time is easy)...

I have removed and reinstalled countless Chevelle rearends (probably 20-25 times), and almost always with only myself. I have had a few times where it "rolled" off the floor jack, but usually not too hard to get it back on... No special saddle frame-thingy, althought I had thought of making one (never got around to it though)...
 
#4 ·
Getting my old 10 bolt out was just a drag it out on the jack then dump it onto the floor.

Putting the shiny new 12 bolt in required a bit more class. I put it on my creeper. Had full manuverability. Worked mint.

To get it on there (no way I could lift that thing by myself) I had it on jack stands with the creeper under it. Then just took it off the stands one side at a time. Put it back up on the stands the same way once it was under the car. That was hard since the car prevented me from getting over the rear end to lift from a good position.

Worked better than rolling it around on a jack which was my first thought. Can't fall off and way more manuverable.

Tim.
 
#8 ·
Tom, Regrettably enough I was unable to go. I was in Fresno tending to a very ill mother. She had 3 heart attacks in as many weeks. Now the doctors have her stabilized and she is in a convalescent home regaining strength. I will try to go next year. I have been to most of the Rod Runs since 1995 when we moved to Temecula. They are a great weekend full of fantastic cars.
 
#9 ·
I just changed rear ends in my '69 and i set in on the cardboard that the skid was wrapped up in and slid into position then lifted it with jacks, 3 to be exact. It took a skid loader to take the axle off the back of the truck so I'd say it weighs more than 100#.
 
#10 ·
I took out my 69 12 bolt rearend with the tires still on (the bolts are going to be a fight to get off!!) just manuvered it to get it out it took 2 guys to pick it up though i would not suggest trying to pick it up by yourself if you put a set of junkers on there and slide and roll it no problem!
 
#12 ·
A properly placed floor jack will work fine although smittyocat has made a device that will keep it in position nicely.

And yes, one strong healthy guy can pick up a rear but it's way smarter to have a helper.
 
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team5150
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