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Spring compressor question

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71velle_malibu

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

can somebody find me a picture of a spring compressor that will work on a 72 Chevelle front spring (on the net)? I bought a spring compressor but that thing won't fit anywhere near the spring, the bolts are way too long. Now I'm looking for the right one. I'm located in Germany so i will have to go by the picture.

Thanks!

Olli
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hmm, the link doesn't work even when copied and pasted?
www.dmstools.com doesn't work either. Seems like the site is offline. Reminds me of chevelles.com yesterday... :D
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Cam, how does it work without spring compressor? I don't want the spring shootin' out at my face. I don't have chains or stuff like that.

Another question is, I am doing this because I want to replace the a-arm bushings with new polybushings, but the ball joints are almost new. Will I damage them when seperating them with a pickle fork? How can I remove the a-arms without damaging the new ball joints and tie rods?

Olli
 
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#7 ·
Basically removing the spring with out a spring compressor goes like this :

Remove the tire and wheel from the car.

Remove the shock absorber.

Remove the brake caliper from the spindle and use a piece of machanics wire to tie it off on the car such that it does not hang by the brake hose.

Remove the rotor assy from the spindle.

Put the car safely up on Jack stands. Remove the cotter key from the lower ball joint and loosen a few turns BUT DO NOT REMOVE the ball joint nut. Leave the nut on several turns. Either take a "pickle fork" to separate the ball joint from the spindle or hit the spindle with a big hammer at the point where the ball joint goes thru the spindle. After the ball joint separates from the spindle take a floor jack and position it under the lower control arm.

Raise the jack until it contacts the lower control arm and press the lower control arm up until the ball joint nut can be removed by hand.

Now carefully and slowly lower the lower control arm until you can lift the coil spring off of the lower control arm.

You'll note that there is a "hump" stamped in the lower control arm that the spring sits over. That "hump" keeps the spring from leaving the LCA until you are ready to manually remove it.


I have done this many times and have never had a spring jump off of the LCA while I was detensioning the spring.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the instructions, I'll try it like that because I don't think I'll et that type of compressor over here. But what about the second question. Will a pickle fork destroy the ball joints? How can I remove the arms without damaging them?
 
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#10 ·
Charbilly is right on. Assure that the frame is high enough that the LCA can drop all the way down with the floor jack underneath it. When it comes time to put the spring back in, it will take a bit of wrestling, especially if you are using new springs. The few that I have done and reused the springs, they slip up into the LCA cup rather easily. As for your second question, What I would do is, like Charbilly said, back the lower nut off a couple of turns and either the spring pressure itself will seperate the balljoint from the spindle or you'll have to whack it a could of times on either side of the spindle. Once the lower balljoint is loose jack it back up and tighten the lower nut up but not tight and perform the same procedure with the top nut. I have had them pretty stuck some times. One time I left the nut loose a couple of turns and went in the house for the night. When I came out in the morning it had seperated. When it does seperate, you'll know it. It makes a pretty resounding bang. Like Tom said, operate the floor jack from in front of the car, as a safety thing. Good luck, post back often if you have problems and keep us informed of your progress.

Cam
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thank you all for your answers! 'preciate it!
Image

So what you are saying is I should not use the pickle fork if i can avoid it? I'll try it like you described (BFH), but if it won't work, will the pickle fork destroy the joints?

Olli
 
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#13 ·
Charbilly's way does not ruin the ball joint. It does ruin the nut. I unscrew that nut so the castle part of the nut is not covering the threads. This protects the ball joint threads but damages the nut.
I hit the nut with a 4 pound hammer with a 16 inch handle.
 
#14 ·
I've read this post and was wondering if Charbilly's idea would work on my Camaro. I too have to remove the springs to rebuild the front end. The difference is the front frame rails are off the body and there is no engine which means I don't have the weight of the whole car. Is there another "trick of the trade" or do I have to buy a spring compresser.
 
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#15 ·
I use charbillys method and never need a spring compressor to remove or install the spring. Did so on my 65 chevelle and 69 olds recently. If you hit with a big enough hammer, the spring will do all the work for you to break the ball joint stud loose from the spindle, so you won't need a pickle fork.
However, installation of the spring with only a floor jack won't work if you don't have the weight of the engine and fenders etc. I tried when my body was off and engine was out. No go. But the install is not hard using a 5\8 or 1\2 inch threaded rod. With the shock absorber removed, put the long rod in its place with a washer and nut on top and make a large flat strong washer-like plate for the bottom, and put a nut on that end. Then simply tighten the nut on the rod and it will pull the lower a arm into position so you can install both ball joints into the spindle holes. Works fine for me, even with no engine or frame. I think I have a picture of this tool in action. I could email it if you like. I insert this threaded rod when I remove the spring as well, so that the spring can't jump out at me.
 
#16 ·
I ran across that problem with a less than complete frontend. I ran a 2x4 from teh top of the frame rail to the ceiling in my garage. Use a short 2X4 to span a couple of joists or you'll ram that 2X4 though the drywall. In my shop (22 foot ceiling, I backed the rear bumper of my truck over the frame horns.

Cam
 
#17 ·
as bhawk posted about the all thread,I did two front spring replacements using the allthread method,did a 65 cutlass and a 65 gto,easy and simple and you won't get killed doing it, 1/2 inch allthread about 32inches long,grade 8, need a 3/8ths plate ,I cut out a 5 inch circle with a 5/8ths hole drilled in the center,before I did this I would read all the posts and be scared half to death thinking I was going to get hurt,think about it and you'll try it,don't get any easier than this
 
#18 ·
On of the benefits of hanging out in a garage around "old pro's" (or is that crows?) is that you can learn a lot from the guys that do this stuff every day.

I was taught to hold a heavy hammer (sledge) tightly against one side of the cast knuckle (where the ball joint goes thru the LCA) and strike the opposite side with another good sized hammer. I've seen this done, and done it many times myself successfully. This creates a significant shock wave at the exact location you want it and the ball joint will separate from the spindle knuckle cleanly and quickly. With practice, it usually only takes one good whack to accomplish this task. Those guys usually know the quickest and easiest way to "get-er-done" cuz they get paid by the job, not the hour. And don't worry about breaking anything. I've been told if it breaks this way, you needed NOT to be driving on it. Hitting potholes at 30 mph put far more stress on that part.

Using a pickle fork can (and most likely will) damage the boot.

Good luck!!
 
#19 ·
Right on Herb. Holding a heavy hammer on the backside while striking the front side is the best method. It is pictured in my 65 chassis servie manual as "the" method to remove all tie rod ends. Manual says to give a pull down on the tie rod if simply wacking the joint won't drop it by itself. When I removed my ball joints, I was alone and couldn't hold a hammer on back side.
 
#20 ·
bhawk's idea sounds easy and safe except I've been told allthread is only grade 2. Veizter mentioned grade 8 which is the best but where do you find it?
 
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thewebb1
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